Review: TAS Auto stainless braided clutch hose
07-13-2008, 09:14 AM
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Review: TAS Auto stainless braided clutch hose
I bought the TAS auto braided clutch hose for my 92. http://www.tasauto.com/Product...5&p=1 I was doing a brake and clutch flush and I though what the hell why not. I've heard of some people bypassing the entire line and putting a braided line straight from the MC to the slave, but from what I can tell, except for that little line, it's all metal hard lines....so to me seems pointless. The only difference is is that this setup still uses the clutch damper (which I suppose can be bypassed if you really wanted to). Also, I don't want to stray too far from stock or make the engine compartment look somehow hacked up for future resale. So...
What you get: The line bare in the box, and a little ziploc with a clip and two copper washers. That's it, nothing else, no instructions.
Installation: It's a PITA. You have to remove the airbox or CAI. Getting the banjo fitting off is no problem, very accessible. The other end is where the real PITA comes in. You NEED, read: NEED a 10mm crowfoot with a small extension. If you can find a flare nut (line wrench) type even better, but a regular one will work. Most people don't have crowfoot wrenches, so acquire one before you start this job. If you can do this w/o this tool, I'd love to hear how. Moving on....this line as ZERO slack in it. They give you no length to work with at all. If you start the line side first, you'll have all sorts of trouble getting the banjo started....and vice versa, if you start the banjo side first, then you will have all sorts of trouble starting the line side and getting the clip on (BTW, for the clip you'll need something to pry it off and later something long and a hammer to tap in the new one). Needless to say, be patient as to not strip anything. A few dozen choice words later, you'll have it together. Other side notes, the bracket used for the factory rubber hose is not needed, and neither is the three pronged washer on the banjo side...it looks to have been used for the bottom seal since there was no other seal on the bottom the the new hose came with two washers. Then of course after you've installed the line, you need to bleed/flush the clutch.
Function: After finishing the job, I of course drove the car to see any difference. I could definitely feel less slop on the bottom end of the clutch. My take off from stop was smoother, esp. with the AC running. There's no real difference up at speed, but stop and go and low speed driving, you'll notice the difference.
Suggestions to TAS: Make some instructions!!!! I know us men aren't big instruction readers, and seeing a hose with two ends you'll think "puh-leeeze, how hard could this be!?!?" but there are enough quirks to this job where I think including instructions is warranted. For instance a tools needed list. Probably you won't know that you'll need the 10mm crowfoot until you're already ***** deep into the job and then what. They could tell you that the bracket and three prong washer is not needed. They could tell you how to R&R the airbox. They could tell you how to or give tips for bleeding the clutch. I know a lot of these things would be no brainers for a lot of us here, but 99 times out of a 100, an average DIYer and probably some beginning DIYers are going to be doing this job and may not know all of these things automatically.
Overall: I'd recommend this upgrade for about $40 shipped...but it's not the 5 minute cake walk that it appears to be.
What you get: The line bare in the box, and a little ziploc with a clip and two copper washers. That's it, nothing else, no instructions.
Installation: It's a PITA. You have to remove the airbox or CAI. Getting the banjo fitting off is no problem, very accessible. The other end is where the real PITA comes in. You NEED, read: NEED a 10mm crowfoot with a small extension. If you can find a flare nut (line wrench) type even better, but a regular one will work. Most people don't have crowfoot wrenches, so acquire one before you start this job. If you can do this w/o this tool, I'd love to hear how. Moving on....this line as ZERO slack in it. They give you no length to work with at all. If you start the line side first, you'll have all sorts of trouble getting the banjo started....and vice versa, if you start the banjo side first, then you will have all sorts of trouble starting the line side and getting the clip on (BTW, for the clip you'll need something to pry it off and later something long and a hammer to tap in the new one). Needless to say, be patient as to not strip anything. A few dozen choice words later, you'll have it together. Other side notes, the bracket used for the factory rubber hose is not needed, and neither is the three pronged washer on the banjo side...it looks to have been used for the bottom seal since there was no other seal on the bottom the the new hose came with two washers. Then of course after you've installed the line, you need to bleed/flush the clutch.
Function: After finishing the job, I of course drove the car to see any difference. I could definitely feel less slop on the bottom end of the clutch. My take off from stop was smoother, esp. with the AC running. There's no real difference up at speed, but stop and go and low speed driving, you'll notice the difference.
Suggestions to TAS: Make some instructions!!!! I know us men aren't big instruction readers, and seeing a hose with two ends you'll think "puh-leeeze, how hard could this be!?!?" but there are enough quirks to this job where I think including instructions is warranted. For instance a tools needed list. Probably you won't know that you'll need the 10mm crowfoot until you're already ***** deep into the job and then what. They could tell you that the bracket and three prong washer is not needed. They could tell you how to R&R the airbox. They could tell you how to or give tips for bleeding the clutch. I know a lot of these things would be no brainers for a lot of us here, but 99 times out of a 100, an average DIYer and probably some beginning DIYers are going to be doing this job and may not know all of these things automatically.
Overall: I'd recommend this upgrade for about $40 shipped...but it's not the 5 minute cake walk that it appears to be.
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