L2ILL

The belt tensioners can be re-packed like any wheel bearing that uses medium sized ball bearings.

You'll need some grease....a razor....a slick solvent used to lubricate as well as further loosen and remove crud or old dried up grease like Liquid Wrench.



The outer tensioner...or balance belt tensioner you pass the razor along the outside edge of the plastic....just enuff to unbind it really....your ARE NOT cutting it. Just loosening it. Then with a tiny screwdriver gently pry it out....skimming it just like you did with the razor only know your pressing outward with the tiny screwdriver until it comes out.

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You repeat the same for the timing belt tensioner(inner) except you pass the razor and tiny screwdriver from the inside of the plastic cap.

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You clean off with lubricant solvent and if you have some compressed air. Then you rub some grease into the opening packing in as much you can....then using huge sockets the size of the plastic caps you've pulled off you use them to pack in some more of the grease as you press down on the socket and drive the plastic cap back in....you may then after with tiny razor push in any of the edges of the plastic that are not riding inside(the edges should be tucked in).

Nicefeet

FYI: You never want to over grease a bearing as it will fail a lot faster.

If you don’t believe me, Google it.

MAD_MIKE

I'll give you style points for the bearing repacking, but there are just some items you should replace. This is one of them.

Granted certain sealed wheel bearing/hub assemblies can be repacked and extend their service life which is great. This still entails some dis-assembly of the bearings for proper removal of old grease, cleanup/inspection of bearings/races, and repacking of grease.

You have my attention, if you can show how to dis-assemble and inspect the bearings/race to assure that they are still within service life that would be great.

However on an interference engine such as the H/F series Honda engines, I am not going to waste my time to try to save 30bucks when the outcome can easily cost me 10 times that down the line when the bearing fails, snaps the belt, and takes out a few valves and possibly pistons.

L2ILL

A quick way to tell if you have bad ball bearings inside are to spin as soon as you removed the tensioners.....if they rotate without bumps or grinding or stop points your bearings may be just fine.

Another way is once you have removed one of the seals after cleaning with compressed air which should taken out mostly everything in there. Is spraying it down with lubricant solvent as recommended and then spinning them....once again giving you the opportunity to feel and listen to the condition of the ball bearings if you find grinding or grainy feeling.....this is a possible pit or pits on the ball bearings and yes then your lil tensioner is shot and needs replacement.

I cannot recommend to dis-assemble for a visual on the ***** becuase they are behind a cage...one is a plastic and another is metal....they are very likely pressed in and attempting to remove will likely damage. I did not do so. A visual inspection would be nice...but your hand and ear can do likely more to pick up on pitted ball bearings.

L2ILL

I can't recommend this to everyone I just offered as an option to some who feel confident their bearings are fine. And for who might be say under 150K.....upwards of 200K....i think its more apt for them to be replaced.

Choose wisely.