Jmoreno412

I have a 2000 Honda accord ex V6, when I drive it for about 30 minutes or so and shut it off it won't start back up for about an hour, but its weird if I shut it off for 5 minutes it will start back up no problem but after 20 minutes it won't start I have to wait for it to cool off for a little over a hour but it only does it when it's about 70 degrees or higher. It starts up but for only about .5 sec then dies out immediately. I've taken it to 3 different mechanics and none of them figured it out I even took it to a Honda mechanic and they gave me the wrong diagnosis. Here's a list of things I put in. My cel code is a p0420 but it didn't come on until after I've had this problem.

Fuel pump
Catalytic converter
ECT Sensor
Map sensor
Main relay
Fuel tank pressure sensor
Battery
Pcm
Fuel pressure regulator
Evap canister
Air filter

Please help me I need to get it fixed ASAP I use it for my job please and thank you.

jdowen2

Have you had your battery load tested? How old is it? How long has this been a problem?

holmesnmanny

Pull your spark plugs and see how they look. Perhaps you got a leaking injector.

Jmoreno412

I've had this problem for about 6 months, I changed my spark plugs,.im sorry I don't that much about cars but I've just changed my battery about 2 days ago

jdowen2

Have you tried holding the pedal to the floor when attempting to start?

OldMontanaFart

My Mom's 1991 Accord LX had this problem, dealer couldn't find it. An indy mechanic who had wrenched for Honda for years found it was a problem under the dash on the driver's side, some relay or somesuch which I can't recall. Part cost about $25, labor to remove/replace dash was a couple hundred.

This was about 12 years ago. Sorry I can't be more specific but this might point you in the right direction as it sounds EXACTLY like hers. Maybe someone else on here will know the name of the offending part which my old memory can't dredge up.

I now have the vehicle with close to 200K on it and it has never recurred.

Jmoreno412

Yea we cousin told me to hold the gas down when it does it but it doesn't help as soon as I let it go it dies out, and I did change that relay it was the main relay and it didn't help, that's what everyone of the mechanics suggested and it was one of the first things I changed and it didn't help. When I do get it started it feels like it wants to die until I get going then it runs fine. That's after I let it sit for a hour, and it starts it putters and all my dash lights get real dim then brighter when the engine putters up and down if that helps any

jdowen2

Looks like you've replaced just about everything. Did you use quality parts? Are spark plugs Denso or NGK gapped at .039"? Only other thought is a loose connection. Since you replaced converter new O2 sensors will clear your 0420 code.

10thcb7

Once it starts how long can your run it for??

I would warranty out the main relay they fail often by design.

EfyourK

You replaced it already but if you got it from advance or auto zone its possible its a defective unit.. its the Main relay all day. Next time you try an start the car click the key an see if you can hear the relay click... if so run the car for like you said 20 minutes or so... shut the car off an try to see if you can hear the relay click as soon as you shut the car off.. if you don't not hear it click turn the key on an off a few times an see if you hear the click! good luck

brakedrum

OP,
You have replaced a lot of things. What about the distributor (specifically the Ignition Control Module); has it ever been replaced?

Jmoreno412

No I haven't replaced the ignition control module I heard that it could be it. Are they easy to change? And I did get my main relay at advance, I need to find my receipt

Jmoreno412

Also to fix my cel which o2 sensor is it? Cause I know there's 2 of them

jdowen2

Replace both of them, cheap at Rockauto, get Denso. Rockauto discount code:123642686100523

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Check your ground cable. Make sure it is connected to clean connections.

Next would be the main relay. Solder points tend to crack.

brakedrum

I'm not all that familiar with 6th generation Accords, but I assume the ICM is inside the distributor like my 4th generation is. It's a little module a little bigger and longer than a pack of matches. It has connections for several wires that go to it. It is replaceable independent of the distributor, but if your distributor is old, its easier and not that much more costly to simply replace the whole thing with an OEM (not necessarily Honda) whole distributor and which should already have a new ignitor in it along with new cap, rotor, etc.

Erratic spark caused by an out-of-spec ICM can cause all kinds of problems. I've had it cause cold starting problems, random shutdown while driving, etc. Sometimes it would start back up immediately and other times had to wait a while. The thing that's easy to forget is that ignition is more than just starting the car; it's an ongoing process. That ICM has to keep working the whole time the engine is running because it controls ignition. It's a very funny chip. It might test as producing proper spark one minute, and a few minutes later read incorrect spark. That incorrect spark is what causes the trouble.

I fried my ICM by gunning my motor last year. It was a few seconds of extremely rapid, extremely hard acceleration. I also didn't change gears quickly enough to keep up with the revs. The engine cut off immediately afterwards and continued to cut off for over a week until I figured out what was wrong. One of the times when it cut off, I left switch on, got under the hood and was lucky enough to arc the spark from the distributor and actually saw the blueish-orange weak spark instead of white hot spark that a healthy ignitor will induce. The next morning, I tested the ignitor using a multimeter and found it was out of spec. Replaced it, and all was good.

Jmoreno412

I have a question I called Honda to check the price of the part cause advance said they never even heard of a ignition control module cause their pretty much useless, but the guy at Honda said my car got ignition coils and I have 5 or 6 of them and I have to change all of them at 55 bucks a piece. Is there a way I can buy the while shabang or do I have to buy all of them individually?

Chris_McCartney

You could get an auto-electrician to test the currents accross all the wires in the ignition system before you go buying new everythings!! Nothing worse than having a problem you cant pin point!! Sounds like a problem someone on here had with the fuel sender unit grounding points. The grounding points were corroded and the system was getting a poor circuit... worth checking, and cheaper than buying anything more...

jperik0

fuel pump relay. it overheats and shuts off. it starts working again once it cools off. this used to happen to my 92 accord. its under the dash, driver side.

bairdandrew77

6th gen Accords have a recall on the main relay (I think it's the main relay, can't remember for sure. It's under the driver side dash). During the summer my 4 cyl Accord was doing the exact same thing. Got the recall problem replaced under warranty, but the issue came back.
This might sound dumb, but in the summer I crack the windows to let some heat escape. The car starts right up everytime now.

brakedrum

I know nothing about those individual coil packs, except I'm pretty sure they almost always set that misfire code in the OBD2 computer causing the CEL to come on. Have you checked all the codes that are stored in your computer?

According to Advance Auto's website, they sell an ICM for your 2000 Accord.
If it is integrated the same as on my car, it will not set a code in the computer when it's not working right. Again, I'm not familiar with how your ignition system works so cannot speak with certainty. There's bound to be a 6th gen owner here who has dealt with the ignition coils and possibly the ignitor in your model.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...control+module

yipcusing2

You might want to take a look at this: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ac..._heat_soak.pdf

poorman212

The 2000 v6 uses coil on plug, no distributor.

Have you inspected/test the key switch when this happens? If the switch is bad then the car will shut off.

Do you hear the fule pump "prime" for about 2~3 seconds when you turn the key to "on"?

Jmoreno412

What should I do then? Cause that's what Honda told me to change and I did I didn't let them do it cause they wanted to charge me 1200 bucks to do it. It didn't work any ways tho

Jmoreno412

Is this the same as the main relay or is this a different relay?