..FerGMaN..

do you know anywhere else i could get them? Ive looked all over for those headlights its driving me crazy.

19Accord97

I got them when TASauto was putting them clearance. However, when I was looking for them about 2ish years ago I simply put "94-97 honda accord tyc projectors" in Google and found quite a few websites selling them for about $200. They don't make them anymore so thats why they are nearly impossible to find.

..FerGMaN..

thats what i tried searching for in google and ebay.
I couldnt find anything. If anyone comes across a pair or can find them for me I'd highly appreciate it. Ive been looking for these for a while.

19Accord97

How much looking have you done?! Looks to be the only site....or youll just have to wait on ebay/check accord sites.

Part # TYC-80-6217-40

http://www.autopart.com/body/BodyPar...ONDAACCORD.htm

It says you'll have to call about it.

..FerGMaN..

thanks the part number helped alot.

STi-Thrill

Hey guys - Yeah I was thinking about buying some new headlights also, but I am trying not to cross the line of "Rice".


I want my accord to have an aggressive look and stance, nothing too flashy or cheap!

..FerGMaN..

yea thats how i feel.. i decided im just gonna save up for a retrofit.

Bwill9886

Good choice!

I prefer just a stock design with black housing, but I do ocassionally like the look of some of the aftermarket projector housings (like those TYC's, they look pretty good).

As for answering your other questions...

Ebay intake will work. A good filter is a must (ex. K&N) and you could get a velocity stack too if you really wanted.

Front lips usually always = good choice. I LOVE my "Type-R style" front lip on my 6th gen, but I kinda like the lip style 19Accord97 has ("Mugen style" I believe?).

After some bad experiences with various ebay HID kits, I can't recommend them myself, but you'll find plenty of people swearing by them. I say throw some silverstar ultra bulbs in and call it a day myself, but... if you really gotta have 'em, save up for a retrofit and do it right. You won't be disappointed.

Drilled and slotted rotors. There have been a lot of heated discussions about these... heres just some basic things you should know. You can read up more if you want.

-ebay drilled/slotted usually equals = garbage (the drill/slot process used on them is incorrect so they'll crack under extreme temp changes).
-tests have shown that with modern pads, the drilling and slotting doesn't do s%#t really.
-bigger rotors do NOT equal better stopping power. Bigger calipers and better tires do.
-there are companies that DO make good drilled/slotted rotors, but they usually won't be that cheap.

You may already know this crap, but it doesn't hurt to remind people sometimes. Feel free to go with some drilled/slotted rotors, (because they do look pretty cool sometimes) but just know that some nice, new brembo blanks will work just as well.

Good luck!

19Accord97

Thanks for the compliments! And yes, it is a Mugen style front lip.
Lots of good info there!

I do have DDM Tuning hid kits in my TYC's. Quite a few people love DDM Tuning b/c the kit I have includes a lifetime warranty and should anything go wrong, their customer service is top notch!

I, however, would not recommend SilverStars. I tried them in my projectors before HID's and to me they are a waste of $50. The light output wasn't much better and one bulb burned out after 1 month which seems to be VERY common (ask how often they are returned due to this @ you parts store).

If you get a front lip, be sure it is polyurethane. ABS plastic WILL break. I have scraped quite a few times w/ mine and am thankful everytime its not plastic!


I have Power Slot slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads that will be getting installed here shortly.

Bwill9886

If you just tried regular silverstars, thats why. The ultras are MUCH brighter. The viewing area is ridiculous! Besides, you can get them for around $20 usually off ebay if you look. I would agree that $50 is too steep and that their life can be short. I've had mine working though for almost a year now, and I do plenty of night driving so it can always be different!

Good call on the ABS plastic too. My first lip was and a HUGE raccoon smashed half of it off. Held up to some good bumps though surprisingly... I'd still go poly all the way though!

STi-Thrill

Hey guys - I can't thank you enough!


Here is my current list of modifications I plan on doing...

1 - Rota Grid Wheels in 17x7.5 (4x114.3) - Full Royal Sports Bronze

2 - Poly Urethane front lip (not ABS plastic)

3 - 35 Watt HID's probably from DDM - I will just be lazy and use the stock headlights for these - For the time being, it should and I hope it will work fine.

4 - Skunk 2 Coilover Sleeves - Will these even work? I do not currently have the funds for full coilovers and was wondering if these sub $300 "Sleeves" will work? If not, then I will probably go with som Tein H-Techs.

5 - Cheapo eBay air intake - 23.00 shipped (LOL)

6 - BlackWorks Forged Lug Nuts in Blue - Set of 20 - How do I know these will work? The size in the ebay listing says 12x1.5mm.

7 - JDM Type-R Sport Grill

8 - And my favorite - A Raceland Electric Exhaust Cutout with remote! Do you think this will sound loud/good? I do not want to buy an exhaust because of the "fart can" sound - so I will get the cutout so I can have it super loud whenever I want, or super quiet. I think this should work well.

I was also thinking about some Hella Supertones, whatever room my now $1,650 budget leaves me with.

Seriously - Thanks for ALL of the help so far guys!

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Problem comes when the E-cutout stops working while open. Has happened more than once to a friend.

Brad_and_the_acc

Your list seems legit man.. Im not really sure what that raceland exhaust thing with the remote is.. Open headers type deal or what?
If your are looking for a good exhaust go with the Apexi WS2.. has a "under the rader" type sound untill you give it some throttle then it has a nice deep tone..

dspinz9747

Invidia makes a great sounding exhaust for the CD chassis and as for headlights I would go with SIR replicas..DEPO makes a good set.

Bwill9886

Honestly unless you have a built valvetrain (mainly a decent cam) its gonna just sound loud and definitely ricey when you rev. Not that some cars won't still sound ricey with those mods, but most F and D series I've heard with a cam at idle... sound pretty nice!

The Muffinman is right about the cutout failing too... I'd personally just stay away from it (for possible headache reasons) but do what you want!

CDdubz5

i agree about the e-cut-outs...they can be a hassle. if you want cheap but good sounding, i had a pacesetter exhaust on my integra and on my supra and it sounded great! and it came with everything needed to install! no fitment issues what so ever! and they can be had for 250-350 for the cat back

for the coil-over sleeves, they will work fine...i dont know about how it will ride because i dont have any experience with them but the stock shock will probably not hold up to the abuse of being lowered so your best bet is to buy some aftermarket shocks made for lowered cars

STi-Thrill

Yo mang. Well the cost of the cutout is around 90 bucks and then add the cost of installation, which I will assume is like $125. I totally agree with you on the cam issue. If the engine had some Toda Killer Cams I'd be in business - it actually just so happens I stumbled upon a video of them on youtube a few days ago and was absolutely amazed at how incredible they sound. They completely transform the car!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHVCy...eature=related


How much would a cam job cost? I mean, is it something I can do myself, in my garage with some pretty basic tools? I'm just afraid of completely destroying the engine.


Also guys - here is an important question. Is there ANYTHING I can do in order to make an accord with an exhaust (with the exception of cams/internals) NOT sound ricey? I'd like a Subaru WRX exhaust type of sound - low and rumbley, not high and farty!


Thanks again guys!

Marcg611

Recommend a quality cat back and header, Magnaflow cat-backs still sound good without the "fart can" sound and being ridiculously loud. Go to their website they have decent sound clips of lots of different cars. unfortunately your not gonna get your exhaust to sound anything like a WRX or a SRT-4 because they're turbo charged which makes it sound way better. Could probly dump on a $90 ebay flange-back on a WRX and it would still sound beastly! I had a magnaflow cat back on 2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T and it sounded pretty sick! deff hate ricer fart can exhaust! so I think think the Magnaflows sound pretty good and are worth a look

slammed em1

if you plan on dailydriving the car, y go for expensive suspension.....i would just get some h&r springs(which give an really low drop) and some after market shocks like kyb or tokiko blues......

apexi ws2 and apexi n1 exhaust are really nice exhaust....

should look like a nice build you got there....

AP96

17x7.5 IS TOO SMALL.

Don't get Junk2 sleeveovers, I have them on Tokico blues and they ride HORRIBLE. Save your money and get real suspension

STi-Thrill

Thanks for the replies guys.


Okey dokey, so you think 17's will be too small? I had a feeling they would be perfect.

Also, the sleeves are no good? Maybe some tein h-techs will do just fine then, but I have to figure out how I'm going to install them.

Also - A Magnaflow catback is EXPENSIVE! Over $400 bucks?!?! I'd rather get a second hand/used axle back off of this forum, if thats even possible.

CDdubz5

dude...look at the pacesetter...it's cheap and it sounds great. also, you wont find any exhaust that makes an accord sound like a wrx or an sti or even an rs because they have sohc flat 4's which make that low put put sound that you're talking about. i know some one with a 99 impreza rs with a greddy exhaust and someone with a 96 integra with the same exact exhaust and they sound totally different.

Bwill9886

I would not recommend trying a cam job on your daily if you've never done one before. There are various details you MUST get right or you will definitely run the risk of destroying the engine.

Unfortunately theres nothing you can do to help your engine sound less ricey besides internals and forced induction. Its just how the engine is designed. A boxster engine in a WRX is quite different than a SOHC/DOHC honda inline 4.

Its a matter of opinion on wheel size. You'll find most people will not agree exactly on wheel sizes. Just look around for pictures of your Accord type with different wheel sizes and decide for yourself.

Suspension isn't too bad a job, as long as every bolt doesn't fight you along the way (like mine). Just get a friend to help you (preferably one with experience doing it) if you can. A tip also, if all you can get your hands on are cheap spring compressors, just take your strut assembly and springs to a mechanic and have them put the new springs on. Will save you ALOT of hassle (and possible injury) and usually won't cost very much at all.

If you have a local exhaust shop, stop by and see what they'd want to make you a custom catback. Just find a good muffler/axle back and let them make piping for it. I have heard some shops try to rape people for this kind of thing, but honestly most of the ones I've been to are very reasonable. Good luck!

19Accord97

For my suspension is was nothing short of a bitch. I had about 4 other guys who are heavily into the car scene helping me, (wrx's featured in magazines, supra guys, people like that!)

The front was fine and didnt take to long. However, I had heard the bolts for the rear struts will probably be frozen and break. So I already had two brand new oem Honda bolts + nuts which cost like $16 which is more than a ripoff.

Anyways, the total job took about 12 hours. All because of the rear two bolts. The guys place I did it @ was @ a apartment complex so I had to let my car sit there overnight on jackstands. But yeah, more than 1/2 to 3/4 of the times was b/c of the rear bolts. We tried spraying them and removing them, burning the bushings w/ torches and saw alld one side which took about an hour b/c the bolt is grade 10. It was just a big pain in the *** and the guys all said they now hate my car! lol

Bwill9886

Dude, I feel your pain. Mine took about the same amount of hours (over a 4 day period!) to get it done because all my damn bolts were nearly unremoveable. Go figure after 200,000 miles without any previous removal they didn't want to move!

I think we used every type of loosening agent we could find AND had to use the breaker bar on every one... it was just me and 2 friends too, both with limited experience.

I learned a lot though after that job, and one key point: NEVER use cheap spring compressors! They left me a nice battle scar though haha!