vettman

I need to replace motor mounts on my 1990 Accord LX. How difficult of a job is this? I have the accord shop manual, but nothing in there on replacing mounts with the engine in the car. If anyone has a tech bulletin or some written procedures on best way to do this job, please let me know. Looks like the rear one will be difficult to get to. I certainly hope you don't have to pull the engine to do this. Thanks

rival12

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Modified by rival12 at 3:27 AM 7/18/2005

vettman

I guess the other two mounts and the jack under the engine would probably keep the engine from falling to the floor--"kinda funny that you didn't think of that". FYI, the mounts are replaceable with the engine in the car.

SpeedFreak77

Wouldn't the other 3 mounts hold the engine?

To answer your question the ones on each side next to the wheel wells and the front are easy to replace, the rear one is a bitch. You may need a engine hoist but I was able to use a jack and a crow bar with a brace to move the engine enough to put the rear engine mount in.

mozzy

yup, no need to remove the engine. Do one at a time.
btw which mounts are u using

vettman

They're "no-name" brand (ha). I purchased them from 2 different E-Bay stores. They're reported to be "made in the USA. The front mount arrived today from T.Moss in Raleigh, NC, and appears to be well made--for $18 I'm not going to complain. The solid remount will be here on Tues.; coming from motor.mounts in NY and it's $38.

As an aside, I tried to loosen the nuts on the front mount this morning. Top nut loosened with no problem. The bottom one won't budge. The nut is 19MM, and I've tried 1/2-inch drive impact wrench, 1/2-inch breaker bar supplemented with a 3-ft. section of pipe. I've put some industrial rust disolver on it, and will try again in the morning. I intended to replace the front one myself and have my mechanic friend do the rear one while the car's on a lift. I'm beginning to think that front bolt will probably need some heat from my torch before it's going to give. Anyone have a better solution for getting it to break loose??

SpeedFreak77

Are you trying to loosen the bolt that holds the bracket to the mount, if so that one is spot welded and you have to loosen the bolt.

mozzy

[QUOTE=vettman]They're "no-name" brand (ha). I purchased them from 2 different E-Bay stores. They're reported to be "made in the USA. The front mount arrived today from T.Moss in Raleigh, NC, and appears to be well made--for $18 I'm not going to complain. The solid remount will be here on Tues.; coming from motor.mounts in NY and it's $38. QUOTE]

Thanks vettman. Update us later how it goes. I need to do mine, but dont want a stiff ride. Delayed it for a year already.

vettman

I'm trying to loosen the nut that's attached to the "through" bolt that attaches the lower end of the "dog-bone" shaped mount to the bracket that's attached to the engine. Did you mean to tell me that the "nut" is spot welded to this bracket, and I should be working on the bolt head and not the nut???

AccordEX1991

Yep the upper bolt on the dogbone mount has a locking tab in the bottom that sits on a hole to keep it from spinning. You need to turn the bolt head instead of the nut.

I was able to change the rear and front engine mounts with the engine in the car. Just use a hydraulic jack to support the engine in the oil pan. Replace the mounts one at a time so there will be three mounts still in place to support the engine.

vettman

Well, I guess I won't know how the solid rear mount performs because I just got a call from motormount.com owner to let me know he was out of the solid mounts and was sending me the one with the solenoid (OEM style for an LX with AT)--for the same price. Now that's a good deal!

vettman

I was aware of the tap on the nut for the upper bolt, but I can't see or feel a similar tab on the bottom bolt. Someone mentioned there was a spot weld on the rear bolt/nut. My factory shop manual really only discusses motor mounts in conjunction with engine removal and installation. Since the front mount only needs to be detached at the top, they don't have a blow-up of the bottom bolt and nut. I'm just trying to find out if the nut on the bottom end of the bracket is permanently affixed to the bracket. Thanks

deserthonda

on the frt mount, there is a 17mm bolt to remove ,on the bottom ,it gets unbolted from ther pass side of the car ,if you cannot loosen it from the top, raise car up, remove splash shield on pass side, get a long extension with a 17mm swivel socket , ..when you put it back together, install bottom bolt first losely, come to top and install top bolt loosely go back and tighten bottom bolt, have a friend start car, at idle , put car in drive e-brake on foot on the brake then tighten top bolt this will minimize the shaking,

for the side mount it is best to support the engine it will make it easier to install

the rear mount is another story,, you got to remove the left axle, center cross member, oil filter, the bracket between int manifold to block .. ,,, first step from the top remove the 17 mm bolt that goes through . remove the 2 14mm bolts that hold mount to beam, there is another 1 but it gets removed from under car, .. raise cvar up, as i said remove axle, oil filter, center beam, the bracket 2 12 mm bolts remove the vaccum hose at back of mount , remove the 4 17 mm bolts that hold the bracket to tranny, remove the last 14 mm bolt that hold mount to beam, with a jack under the tranny raise it up a bit this should give you enough room to slide the rear mount out...............

SpeedFreak77

I forgot about removing all of that for the rear mount, I had it all out because I had just installed my motor. I guess removing all of that is a pain just for a mount but it has to be done.

vettman

Thanks to everyone who has responded to my original "motor mount" post. I installed the front mount this morning. Once I knew the nut on the bottom bolt was tack welded to the bracket, I was able to remove the bolt with just a couple skinned knuckles. The rear bracket (with solenoid) will be here on Tues., and I will take the car to my mechanic later in the week to have it installed. I just do not care to tackle that one. I've saved enough on the mounts to pay someone to do this for me. Front one was $26 with shipping, the rear one will be $47 with shipping. The kind gentleman that runs the NY store discovered he was out of the solid rear mounts--after I placed my order--so he's shipping the OEM style with solenoid for the same price. Local Honda dealer wants over $300 for both these mounts.

Again, thanks to everyone for all the good advice.

fw190bvi

not to hijack too much, but im in the same boat, and id rather not make a new thread, 94 EX...

car shakes like hell at idle, and it surge like hell when rolling.....so its the motor mounts. is it safe to say that its probably both the front and rear that are bad???...

what exactly is needed to be done to get the rear mount, and im assuming the front comes out w/o remoivng the radiator (dont remember what the mount/core supportt clearnces are, even though i was just checking it out yeasterday)

deserthonda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to hijack too much, but im in the same boat, and id rather not make a new thread, 94 EX...

car shakes like hell at idle, and it surge like hell when rolling.....so its the motor mounts. is it safe to say that its probably both the front and rear that are bad???...

what exactly is needed to be done to get the rear mount, and im assuming the front comes out w/o remoivng the radiator (dont remember what the mount/core supportt clearnces are, even though i was just checking it out yeasterday)</TD></TR></TABLE>

yo fw... scroll up a bit and read my post if you need further assistance let me know

fw190bvi

wow...thats rough....not something id want to do on my own, thats for sure....was a hell of alot easier doing them on my buddies car....

since my car is gonna be sitting alot (its in my garage while im at school), im thinking ill talk to my mechanic, and see what they say on just the rears...if the front is easy id have no problems doing it.

ive really got 2 more questions:
1. do you think ive made a proper diagnosis...i mean, its ovbious the mounts could use a replace (they're almost 12 years old), but is that what is probably causing the car to surge on rolls and to vibrate at idle, or could it be the tranny mounts as well?
2. are they only options to get stock mounts, polyurethanes, and solids?...if someone could elaborate on those and their pros/cons...i do knwo the basics of them all (like, what they really are)

thanks alot...theres been very little talk ever in this forum about mounts, so this is a good thread to have in the archives