skhell

Try this link:

http://www.iammike.org/htmods/HowToR...-WaterPump.pdf

TouringAccord

sorry about that...

I have updated the first post to have the correct link.

At the time I switched it, the new forum software would only allowed so many pictures to be in one post and updating the original post would have caused me to remove pictures which I didn;t want to do. Since then the software settings have been changed a bit and I was now allowed to update the first post without losing any pictures.

carisma45

Thanks to Skhell and Touringaccord
I got the document and read every step carefully. I read another document and watched its videos also. I think i'm ready to change my timing belt now. But I have a questions about timing belt replacement on 1995 honda accord. I will change timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, and water pump gasket. Should i change Valve Cover Gasket? and do i have to remove the valve cover from the head of the engine?

TouringAccord

if it's been a while since the valve cover has been removed and the gasket replaced then it's probably a good idea to replace the gasket. and yes, the valve cover will have to be removed from the head when doing the timing belt and etc.

skhell

I guess that I know what happened.

This weekend, I took the lower and upper covers and redid the all thing again. When I was tightening adjusting nut after I had set the tension of the balancer belt, I noticed that the balencer tensor was moving while I was tightening the nut ... and by doing this, it was messing with the belt tension....

I applied a bit of oil in the washer, on the face that that touches the nut and "voilá", problem solved, the tensor did not move anymore while I was tightening the adjusting nut...

I anyone have weird whining noise, although you have set the tension through the right procedure, try to put a bit of oil(just bit with your finger) in the washer of the adjusting nut, so that you wont mess up the tension of the belts when tightening the adjusting belt

TouringAccord

thanks for the update

skhell

Hi!

Last time I did the balencer belt, I got with a doubt in the head. I aligned properly the front balencer, the crank pulley and locked the read balencer with the correct tool, loosen the adjuster nut and then removed the locking tool from the rear balencer.

When I removed the locking tool, I noticed that the rear balencer mooved a bit(about 1/2 of a tooth or even less) under the pressure that the tensioner puts on the belt.

Is this normal?

TouringAccord

I dont recall to be honest but if it moved as little as you said then I probably wouldn't worry about it.

skhell

That's what I needed to ear ,

thanx

djkurious

TouringAccord, Thanks for the excellent right up. I did my timing belt this weekend and the instructions were dead on!

TouringAccord

you're welcome

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

ftw good write up ima need this in the spring... if i keep my accord....

TouringAccord

thanks

yortster

Thanks for this write up. I just bought a 94' accord lx wagon (F22B2) with 118K miles. I bought it knowing that it has an oil leak and needs a new timing belt. It's also gonna need a valve adjustment. The mechanic told me that the oil leak is coming from the valve cover and a bad oil pump seal. Okay, so I've decided to do the job myself because I need the assurance that the job has been done properly. However this is my first Honda and I have to say I'm a little nervous. I just have a few questions before I get started;

1. Is it really necessary to replace the water pump? I've always lived by the creed "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
2. Same question for the belt tensioners?
3. Can the oil pump seals be replaced without removing the oil pump? And if so how do I get the seals out?
Thanks.

AC01R1

QUICK QUESTION** i searched the entire accord forum and cant find this. what is the torque spec for the the cam gear bolt for F22B2??

GhostAccord

The timing belt pulley/cam gear bolt tq spec is 27 lbf-ft.

wolfcreekman

This Information Is Excellent.

cstone

very good right up (probably the best i have seen for anything)! i downloaded this and put it in the folder i keep on my computer with everything related to my car.(i recommend you guys do this too any time you come up with something that you think may be nice to have in the future.) i keep a copy of the shop manual and any wiring diagrams for my car along with other various files. if anyone would like either of these files i can email them to you. PM me with your email address (no spam i promise). BTW they are for a 94.

TouringAccord

thanks

tlchkc

Hey im stuck on where the positioning of the rear timing balancer belt driven pulley should be, or does it matter? i got where the front timing balancer belt should be pointed and the main pulley is at TDC, im just stuck with where the rear pulley should be positioned.

thanks.

MAD_MIKE

Thank you Touring for the write-up. Very well detailed for a first time user.
I just did the belt on a '95 Ex 2.2 A/T. Outside of the broken belt covers, stripped cam tensioner bolt, missing belt cover bolts, missing splash shield bolts, broken Alt adjusting bolt, sheared Alt mouting bolt, stripped front engine mount, and countless other missing fasteners, it was a fairly easy process.
have Big-O do the timing belt on any car. P/O did it I just had to fix the mess
The A/C unit gets in the way as well as the PS bracket, so those will need to be removed per the instructions given. Also there was a line, for the PS that runs along the inside of the frame rail. You will hit this and not be able to get the cover past the strut rod. What makes this even more frustrating, is while under the car you will most likely be focused on getting the cover past the sprockets and strut rod and not notice the line. There will be three bolts that will need to be removed to allow this line to be nudged out of the way, leave it off until you have the engine mount back on as it gets in the way of installing the cast iron bracket to engine mount. So to reiterate.

Remove front accessories and brackets(except AC bracket can be left, just remove the compressor). Remove that inside the frame line, three 10mm headed bolts. Install the cover from the outside of the strut rod(wheel side) rotate the cover counter clockwise to get it over the strut rod(the hard line will be in the way now if its not moved) and then drop it back down inside the strut rod to rotate it clockwise to line it back up with the engine front. Be careful of the balance shaft tensioner spring. The upper right corner of the cover will catch on this.

IIRC the pulleys notch will be at a 2 O'clock position. But I could be wrong. You really should have a 6mm bolt x 100mm and mark it 74mm from the end. This will let you know that the balance shaft is rotated correctly. The bolt can slide in at different clocking of the sprocket, but only one will allow for you to be able to slide it in to the 74mm mark.
On the '95 EX I was working on there are no reference marks for the rear balance shaft sprocket. There are two dots on balance shaft cover, but I am not sure what they were for. This car did NOT have any markings other than those two, none of which lined up with the rear balance shafts sprocket notch.

nus_dogg

This is a good write-up. I remember when I did mine, it took me 6 hrs to R&R my water pump and t-belt.

topshot-rhit

This post made me chuckle as this is how my '90 Accord coupe died... except I was just cruising down the interstate when it simply sheared off at 175K miles. 8O Hence, I now have a 99 Accord with 122K on it and will be doing this job in the spring along with replacing the clutch, but cranking on this bolt will make me nervous.

Conan

Great writeup, thank you! Anyone know of whats different for an F22A1? I am going to be doing this this weekend and would like to be prepared. Thanks!

TouringAccord

thanks, your welcome.

as for the differences between this and for a F22A1, not sure exactly but they should be very similar.