Accord+1994

Hey guys I bought a 96 accord EX automatic and I need help... I got it for cheap bc I needed a daily ... It was running excellent then one day it didn't want to turn on anymore it cranks but it doesn't do anything else ... electric is all there you know radio/clock/gauges/lights/windows new battery ... The starter is good the motor isn't locked all the fuses under the dash are good ... Now idk about the main relay is good bc I cant hear the fuel pump activate? Even tho I already tried 2 diff ones 1st was from a 94 EX model the 2nd one was from 97 LX model ... The only check engine light code that was coming up was the TPS but even then it was still running good I disconnected the sensor and connect it back on and the light went away ... So I went to look at the fuse box that is under the hood and that's when I noticed that it didn't have the relay for the radiator fan it had a red wire I'm guessing they bridged it or w.e you call it ... So I took it off and put a relay in it that I had around and still nothing ... any ideas ?!
​ok so I took out the ecu and opned it and nothing on it looks burnt at all doesn't smell burnt either ... Took out the fusebox that is under the hood to see if k can open it aand check the inside and couldn't find a way to open it so I connected it back on and still nothing ... Still no CEL either ... I don't hear the fuel pump turning on and I don't hear the main relay clicking either ...

99stockcivic

Unfortunately, you are probably going to need to break out some tools to test the fuel and spark to see where that's at. You will want a fuel pressure gauge to test that and make sure the fuel is getting there to the injectors. And you will want to test the spark by pulling a plug to verify you see voltage coming in.

I am pretty sure you can rent a fuel pressure gauge if you need to so you should be able to test without having to buying anything yet. This will help determine what you should test next.

Accord+1994

by any chance do you know where I can rent one ?! I was also thinking if by any chance would the fuse box itself under the hood would be fried ?! Being that the previous owner crosses the cooling fan with a wire there was no relay ... All fuses are good of course I even got the original relay that goes on there and still does nothing ... But maybe the fuse box could be good bc everything else that works under that fuse box works ... I'm just lost what can it be exactly like pin point it out

Idk if the ignition (key) it is good but it does turn just fine and send electric ... Looks like there is an alarm on the car aswell ... An original Honda car alarm on it idk if that got fried and affecting it it also never came with a beeper for it ... is there anyway I can post pictures or videos of it ?!

99stockcivic

I checked and both autozone and oreilly's auto part store rent fuel pressure tester, so yes.

Turning the key doesn't really tell you much in this case except electricty exists. Cranking tells us the starter seems to be working. But you need to see if there is spark getting to the plugs , this way if it is spark you can focus on distributor, coil, and things like that. You need to check the fuel to see if it's the other direction, such as fuel pump or injector rail failure or a clogged fuel filter.

As for your fuse box being randomly fried....it sounds possible, but not on the top of the list of things to check. However, if you do want to check it then you will again need a tool such as a multimeter to test for voltage to all the points. You might also need that to check for voltage to injectors.

For most of what you are asking you are going to need to start testing with equipment before anyone can really help you.

Accord+1994

Well the starter is good ... The ignition switch I'm assuming and that's a big assumption that it's good as well ... There has to be electricity through out the car bc I can still open and close the windows the locks the moon roof aswell same with headlights and taillights hazards and all ... Now checking the ignition I think and I use the word thjnk carefully it's good bc people told me to use the whole screwdriver in the spark plug wire to see if there is any spark and there is ... I didn't check on all four but there was on the one spark plug that makes me think the other 3 should be good unless I have to test them individually ... The ecu doesn't look or smell burnt ... all the fuses under the dash and hood are good ... The only reason I mentioned the fuse box under the hood bc the previous owner had a wire jumping one side to the other side in the same radiator fan relay it's what I saw when I opened the fuse box under the hood ... Im sorry that if it's not making sense but I'll try to upload pictures or a video maybe that will help ... But thank you for being patient oh the motor isn't locked up or anything like that and oil is good and not mixing with the radiator fluid either

99stockcivic

OK, now go get a fuel pressure gauge and test that aspect. If spark is good then fuel is the next thing to check.

Accord+1994

Ok cool thanx for understanding ... But I'll double check tomorrow each spark plug one after another bc the first spark plug closest to the ignition distributor shows spark now where you think I should check for the fuel pressure ?! Thanx again and tomorrow I'm going to try to post a video see if that helps any ... Now I feel a small click coming out of the fuel rail though Everytime I try to turn it on idk if that means anything

99stockcivic

So to check fuel pressure, the proper way is to run a gauge to it. That type of checking is done this way:

Now....if you are just checking to see if there is fuel, but don't care what the pressure is, you can do a really lazy and messy way as shown here:
This second way is just going to see if ANY fuel is coming up the pipe. Not my favorite way to do this, but it's something you can do without a gauge to check for the worst scenario, no fuel.

Further details here:
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ho...he-fuel-pump-2

Accord+1994

hi again everyone i just wanted to ask for more help sorry ... so the car is at the same position nothing has changed i can feel the main relay click every time i try to turn the car on but i dont hear the fuel pump activating at all i even loosen the bolt to the fuel rail and no gas comes out ... being no fuses are blown under the hood and under the dash the starter is good and the motor isn't stuck like not turning and there is oil and about a quarter tank of gas in it but the main relay is clicking ... there isnt any noise like an active on and off from the fuel pump either and i check the ignition distributor inst throwing any spark either ... any ideas on what it can be now ?!

99stockcivic

No spark and no fuel is very odd. Something central to both is in the mix here. Perhaps an ECU , or the immobilizer is the problem? Hopefully someone else has a suggestion, I don't know what else would cause both the spark and the fuel problem.

Jeremy64

I have noticed you have not mentioned the d4 light illuminating before you turn the car over. Turn car on but do not start it and look at d4 on the dash to light up for a few seconds if it doesnt Try a different ECU. My car would not start but everything worked. But the d4 light. When the light is on you should hear the pump prime. If you do not have the light assuming it works the pump will not prime. I spent 20$ and took the ECU on passenger footwell from same accord at the junk yard and it solved the problem.

angrysmileyface

D4 has no bearing on anything except within the automatic transmission faults. When I got my 95 wagon, D4 was burned out, but the vehicle had no problem starting. Basically if you turn the car to run but not start, you should hear the pump prime for about 5 or 6 seconds. With the 94 wagon, I had intermittant starting due to failing capacitors on the ECM. Replacing the capacitors worked for me (Not everyone will get lucky, especially with burnt traces) so checking the inside of the PCM is always a good step (if you smell rotten fish or see black marks around the larger caps, thats a good indicator). Pull codes using a scan tool if available. Also check voltage at the pump it might be a broken or shorted wire.