Loughf

I have a 94 accord that's been swapped from an f22b2 (non-vtec) auto, to (what I was told) f22b1 (vtec) manual.

Having that said, it has an automatic ECU still, 2 different wiring harnesses, and half of the electronic shtuffs don't half *** work.

What I've done.......

bought the CORRECT ecu for the f22b1 OBD1 vtec manual engine.
bought the matching wiring harness to go with it.

What I've (kinda) been told.......

my engine is NOT f22b1 like I was told
it's a (jdm?) f22b(nothing?)
f22b's are OBD2

Conclusion?...

I have the p0a-a01 ecu (for vtec OBD1) and wiring harness.

1. will that work with my f22b?
2. are the connectors the same?
3. will this ecu work since the one that's in it is already OBD1?
4. if none of the above, wtf do I do?

I'm tired of things not working right (a/c mostly). I don't want 2 different harnesses in the bay cluttering things up and having to splice from one to the next HOPING **** will work right. Is there a harness I need specifically for the f22b instead of the f22b1, and do I need a different ECU and Cluster to go with it?

PREASE HEP MEH.

MAD_MIKE

F22B1 will have 'VTEC' on the valve cover, will be a SOHC, and the spark plugs are pointed to the front of the car.
F22B2 will have no writing on the cover, will be SOHC, and the spark plugs are pointed towards the firewall.
F22B will have no writing on the cover, will be DOHC, and the spark plugs are in the middle.

If you still not sure what your engine is, google the above engine names and look at the descriptions I've given. Match the one that looks like yours and now you know what it is.

Also on the block will be the engine code, below the water outlet on the head
Look for large F22B, F22B1, F22B2

Loughf

well, I have 2 of the 3.

the block states (f22b) where the valve cover says VTEC and I can tell is a SOHC, the sparkplugs are on the front side (closest to the radiator) of the engine. so I have a frankenweenie?

f22b block with f22b1 head? SO IF THAT IS TRUE, my wiring harness and ECU will work fine???

Loughf

I will post pictures when I get my lazy *** up outta bed and see if you can determine wtf is going on. lol.

Loughf

So here's the promised pictures..

PLEASE DON'T ASK ABOUT THE BLUE PAINT. I want it off the engine, just haven't had time to take it off yet. It's ugly and the dude before me did it.

The top one is the block, f22b. (8147373) ((not sure what that number is or means))

The bottom picture is the SOHC, VTEC, (front facing wires) valve cover.

Should my OBD1 wiring harness and ecu work properly?

Loughf

update:

I saw where the f22b's can ALSO be SOHC, and are hard to tell a difference.

My engine is f22b, not b1, BUT THE GOOD NEWS is that my wiring harness worked as well as the ECU. the bad news, I have an unknown check engine light because my retarded *** forgot how to check codes. xD

so i'ma go research that and i'll post another update soon.

holmesnmanny

f22b can be either f22b sohc nonvtec, f22b sohc vtec, or f22b dohc

Obv if its dohc it will be dual cam, if its non sohc vtec it will not say vtec on the valve cover and f22b sohc vtec will say so on the valve cover

Really easy to figure out by simply looking at the valve cover

MAD_MIKE

That is a F22B1.
It might be a replacement JDM shortblock from a DOHC, but I don't think there is much difference between the B family engines when it comes to the block.

To check for codes, look behind/below the glove box door. Pull down the blue two wire connector. Jumper it, turn the ignition to II(ON) and the codes should flash from the CEL.

8147373 is a serial number.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

I found (at the salvage yard) a connector in the door that will perfectly fit the blue 2-pin CEL connector. Now I can plug it in instead of jumpering it, or even install a switch so that I can connect it jumper it at will. Just saying . . . . .

Loughf

so.......my ECU fried?

I started the car, let it run for about half an hour and everything did great. Very pleased. I went inside and took a **** (I'm a big boy --so was about 30-45 minutes), went back outside and gonna take it around the block. NOW it WON'T START. Turns over, but never starts.

I opened the ECU and in "R48", the 2-pinned black thing has exploded all over the board.

I stuck the OLD ecu back in the car, and it still won't start. --extremely confused now.

EDIT- also, I tried to check engine codes and it never flashes. it stays on solid. I've tested the light before, so I know it works right doing it the way I'm doing it (with paperclip and the 2-wired connector from behind the glove box), but it NEVER flashes. it stays on solid.

PREASE HEP A DUMBY.

I've checked all fuses and all connectors, no sensors look bad, no wires are melted, so forth, so on. I have no idea wtf I'm doing now.

Loughf

So, I got the car to start, somehow and some way, the rotor button screw snapped and the rotor wouldn't spin correctly.

I used a screw extractor, got the old screw out, got a new button, screwed it all in, and bam, she fired.





the other 50% now, I have a few other issues I need to fix. I'm throwing a code 1 (O2 sensor) and that's because it's not plugged in. I can't find my O2 socket and the connector ((for some reason)) is on the opposite side of the engine? I have another place for an O2 sensor on the down pipe, now just getting the sensor moved and plugged in so it'll clear that code and she'll be set as far as CEL.

I don't have reverse lights because the sensor on the tranny is broken (pull-a-part easy fix, haven't had time).

VTEC DON'T WORK. Now, this (as far as I know) could be 2 reasons. It might not work because my CEL is on ((was told VTEC don't work if CEL is on.......true(?))). Also, this car has a VTEC controller in the glove box, I found a random black wire attached to a GREEN/YLW wire on the other end in the engine bay. I looked it up and that's supposed to go to the VTEC solenoid. I looked at the ECU and that harness has been hacked to **** and I found the other half to that black wire ((it goes through the firewall --obviously, right?)). So I then realized that the new harness wasn't attached to the ECU (at the GREEN/YLW wire). The wire that supposed to go to the ECU is now the wire attached to the controller, so i'll have to splice that into the wiring harness in the bay to get it working. (((((((but will it really work if I still have a CEL?)))))))

Lastly, I bought an EGR because I kept having a code 12. I then later was told I didn't have the "bracket with solenoid" on the driver side of my bay to complete the EGR system, so that still needs to be fixed. (yet again, another pull-a-part trip)

Once all of that's done, I can enjoy the car for what it is!! If not, I'ma burn this damn thing and get something else.

WORD OF ADVISE TO PEOPLE WHO HAVEN'T DONE THIS ALREADY. NEVER buy a car that's been swapped, unless you were part of it and know exactly what's going on. This has been a head ache from hell.

Lost Again

Yea, you have a few other issues to solve as well.

You state the egr solenoid is missing, along with the tubing being cut - not only the rubber line but the hard line along the injectors.

Do the cooling fans work - I ask because there is a missing wire connector on the t-stat housing.

I don't even want to know what that "speaker" wire thing is under the PS hose?

One of the wires on the dist cap looks like it it about to fall out?

I'm not trying to put you down or make you feel bad, just pointing out a few thing. It can be saved (if the motor is good). It will just take a bit or work to sort everything out.

IMHO, I'd look at this and say yes the vtec motor is in the car - but everything with the wiring is suspect, including the ECU (what is the number on it?). Example, pretty sure the vtec OBD-I Accords did have two O2's, where the non-vtec OBD-I only had one....going on memory which is suspect and then add a beer or two and all is out the window.

race04

can I put vtec dohc on the f22b block