f22a1 ftw

i was wondering what u guys thought my f22a1 is more or less stock atm besides a few bolt ons but i was going to get a venom intake manifold but i sound like a rere but will i have to get a venom fuel rail and injectors as well? but the reason im asking if becuase in about 2-3 weeks ill have about 5grand to spend on my f22a1 im doing a n/a DD build with bisimoto camshaft not sure which crank/rods/pistions to go with if u guys could recommand some also should i get a hondata chip or something else but if u guys could recommand some stuff i have no set hp goal but i have putting off rebuilding this f22 for awhile now i finally have enough to do somthing with it so what do you guys think

thanks in advance

Peeonu25

check out speedfactory they have a pro stock f22 crx


ENGINE:
F22A
Ported Head w/oversize valves
Knife-edged & Stroked crank
Aluminum Rods
Bisimoto Custom Pistons 13.9:1 c/r
Bisimoto Teflon Rocker Spacers
Bisimoto Cam
Bisimoto Cam Gear
Bisimoto Race Header
Ported H22 Skunk2 IM w/custom adapter plate
90mm TB
9000rpm revlimit

DRIVETRAIN:
Evolution F2D adapter kit
Liberty Pro-shift modified D16Y8
Stock gear ratios
MFactory 4.9 Final Drive
Action 2MS clutch
Stock axles
12lb Evolution flywheel
M&H 24.5 x 8.5 x 13’s on Weld Racing Wheels

Omnipower USA Drag Coilovers

FUELING, ETC:
Sunoco 112 octane fuel
Precision 1000cc injectors
Golden Eagle fuel rail
Aeromotive A1000 Pump
Aeromotive Regulator
1.5 gal Fuel cell
MSD ignition
Speedfactory Tuned on Neptune
Weighs 1800lbs with driver

Current Best Performance (shakedown runs plagued with issues):
E.T. – 11.6
mph – 117mph
280whp/187tq

GhostAccord

Talk to the folks @ Bisimoto Engineering. They have a 2006 Insight Unibody, F22A: 9.38 @ 151mph. Or you could talk to the guys over at Race Engineering.com like I did. They helped me out with buying the right parts for my goals.

f22a1 ftw

sounds nasty as hell but i dont if i could get my accord to 1.8k haha ima tear back seats carpet head liner etc out and get light weight seats etc etc but just asking if i went with what ur saying would i necessarily rebuild the drive trian im not looking for a prodrag car or a TC just so i can get from point a to point b faster and have fun driving it but one more thing to anyone that reads this which is better price/performance wise tein or skunk2 for handling product s i can get a full skunk2 used setup from a freind that also drives a 91 accord so yea thanks everyone

deucedeuceEK

Pulling your interior wont really do much of anything. I'd upgrade to an h22 tranny and or both motor/tranny with your budget.

f22a1 ftw

i was gonnado a h22 swap but i was wondering if a h22 swap would be better or worsethen a bulit f22

deucedeuceEK

In your case, yes. An h22 swap would be better bang for the buck. You can find h22 motors and trannys for dirt cheap if you know where to look.

Peeonu25

i bought my car with the swap done, too bad ive redone the entire harness and ive pulled the motor twice now.

my accord was stripped about 2 months ago, not for weight loss but to refinish everything.


i have ITR front and 4d ITR rears in my CD, pulled the sound proofing from the floor when i replaced the carpet, shaved the hell out of my head liner, cut out the strethening stuff on the pillar panels, removed the front and rear seatbelts, ac pump, condensor, tank, lines, i rewrapped my rear deck in suede and i liked the look of it so much without the rear speakers, i took out the front and stereo, my glovebox is gutted and i screwed in a money holder so i could still keep my registration in there, the heat shield for the exhaust is gone since i run an open downpipe gutted the inside of my mirrors and i have the mirror its self glued inplace so they dont move. i have my passenger air bag gutted, s2k wheel with AB not hooked up because i have all of the SRS stuff removed. i kept the actual bumper, but i removed the 20 or so pound weight they have in the back of it.

i have a suppppeeerrrr small spare tire, i have to raise my coilover just to keep it care from scrapping, i dont have a jack, but i have one of those ramps to put chains on, and i keep a balsa wood block that i can put under so i can change my tire still. in the 5 years ive been driving, ive never had a flat so i know the day is coming.

also wheel and tire weight. rotational mass is a huge part. that also includes crank pullys, PS pulley alternator pulley etc.

but i have a slight advantage since im running turbo and not NA

my accord is at 2,790 with me in it and a full tank of gas, while still looking 100% complete, so really i shaved about 200 pounds off my 94 DX.

next time i go to the track im gonna find some little 110 pound girl to drive for me. see what 100 pounds will do.

417CB7SQD#4

5 Grand could set you up with a H22. I think it'd be neat to build a f22 tho. That seems to be what everyones solution is any more is "swap an h22." I know I'm new here but I'm not new to the F series. I have a H22 swaped 91 Ex with a the F22 trans and I love it. I also have a mild 93 Accord with a cam, valves, 9.5:1 comp, I/H/E. And it's fun too. Not as fun as the H22, but I've got ALOT less time and money in it. It's all preference. On the f22 venom intake manifold, I haven't seen them in over 4-5 years! And even then they were discontinued. And I think it was the import section of Jegs beleve it or not.

nus_dogg

Yup, if you're building an NA car, I'd go H22.

417CB7SQD#4

Not that what I say has alot of pull, but from my personal experience the H22 as an all motor, is alot better than the F22. It's just a better platform. Why start off with 120hp when for the same price you could start off with 190 or so. But the F22 on boost takes the cake I think. I've never turbod anything. But when my cousin got out of the Marines he bought a Supra and gave me his turbod F22A 92 Accord. Aventualy it had a little blow by so I pulled the F22A out and in went the H22. I had a friend tune it and 3 weeks later it threw a rod and blew a hole in the block 3"x6" under the manifold. Bad tuning or bad engine, I still would have rather rebuilt the F22 and kept it in there.

SpartanMW

These motors seem to be really big fans of boost. If you were going to spend that much money I would just pick up pistons and rods, save money where you can, get a stainless manifold made or you can get a just a good ol steel one made for a fraction of the cost. May rust after a few years but it'll serve you well for plenty of time. Get a hondata s200 a 16g and just run 15 to 20psi. This motor has shown time and time again that boost is its friend. You'll see high Torque numbers with a very nice power-band.

417CB7SQD#4

I'd really like to see how well they do on spray. Just to find out.

Balwin

1. Project Car Magazine already did it.

2. This thread is dead. Let it rest in peace.