Was wondering if anyone knew how to fix a problem with windows rolling up slowly? Would that be an electrical problem? It's for a 1997 Honda Accord LX.

Also, whenever I turn on my AC and my car is idling, it will idle down really low and almost stall.

 

run a load test on your alternator. Sounds like your not getting enough voltage to power all your accessories. Then come back and update your post so others can learn....

 

How would I go about doing that? :]

Kind of a noob still...

 

It's cool, everybody was a noob once. Even the guy who is going to flame you for asking a perfectly normal question.

Anyway, I probably learned more about my car from the Haynes repair manual than from any other source. Go to autozone or whatever, and buy yourself one of those tool kits that has all the basic stuff like box wrenches, rachets, sockets, etc. Make sure you get one that has the following sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 22mm. With these wrenches, you can essentially take apart and put back together your entire car.

I believe electrical is in chapter 4 of most Haynes repair manuals. Either way, just look up electrical. It will give you step by step instructions on how to pull it out. It is really simple actually, takes like 15 minutes and you can do it with a scizzor jack and a basic tool box in the parking lot at autozone. Once you get it out, walk inside and hand it to the guy at the register and ask him to run a load test on it. He will stick it in this machine and the test takes like a minute or two. He will either say that it is good or bad. If it is bad, be prepared to fork over about $100 to him. Take the new one (usually comes with a warranty) and install it in your car. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Note: make sure you have the code for your radio (if it is the OEM unit) because you will have to disconnect your battery before you start unplugging major electrical components.

Hope this helps. Good luck buddy.

BTW, be sure to come back here and post your results so other can learn too.

 

To test your alternator, take it autozone or advanced. They can put a tester on it without taking it out of the car.

 

No

No

No

No

It is a common problem and has nothing to do with the alternator but the design of the windows themselves. Clean out the tracks and lube them up. Please do a search as it has been thoroughly discussed.

 

Yes

Yes

Yes

OP stated that when he runs his AC, the car idles slower. This indicates that there might be a problem with the vehicle's charging system due to increased electric load.

There is nothing wrong with testing his alternator. It will not cost him anything but a little time.

The worst case scenario, he will find out that he has a perfectly good alternator, and he can continue his diagnosis.

 

Correct that it doesn't hurt. But that is not the issue.

*edit*

On top of that it also depends on what his actual idle is, which should be ~700-800rpm. It SHOULD dip down momentarily when engaged then settle out.

 

Yeah, they can do that too, but the most accurate way is to test it with it out of the vehicle because the machine inside the store can test it at constant RPM as opposed to doing it inside the car will yield less accurate results because it is more difficult to maintain constant engine speed.

 

I'll give you the window part, but what do you think it is causing his car to idle slower when he runs the AC?

 

Edited my post above.

The AC unit is belt driven on the same as the alternator. Engage the AC will kick it into gear so that belt goes from having no pull on it from the AC (just spins freely) to actually doing work. So it should be expected to drop down and then settle back out.

If his stock idle is ~700-800 and he notices a quick blip where it dips down I wouldn't even worry about it. If he's idling at like 500 then the issue is with that - I'd turn the idle adjustment screw to open it up a bit more on the TB and bring it to 700.

 

Maybe, but he said that only does it when he runs the AC, so I don't think he needs to adjust his idle (unless of course it is already around 500 like you said)

I completely agree with you, but I'm assuming that his idle stays low (borderline dying) at all times while he is running the AC. I just figured it is common sense that the idle will momentarily drop when the AC is turned on. Most cars do that anyway, so I don't see why he would bring it up if it were just momentary.

I guess we will just have to wait for the OP to come back with updates...

 

just a side note that even if the alt is good, might need to clean connection at battery. but from the sounds of it window(s) is out of alignment

plus a old fashion way to check your alt is drive at a set speed and start turning on everything one at a time radio heater/ac lights if you have a bad alt you will feel it "bog" down but once you turn them off it will pick up. me and my aunt did it on her old 75 impala because she didn't believe anyone that all it was was the alt.

i remember when we turned on the lights at 60 MPH on the freeway and it backfired so hard it blew a hole in the muffler LOL... ahhh good times LOL

point is if you think it is the alt go to autozone or schmucks or whatever and have them test it for free