ROTARD

Hi everyone,
Sorry if this has been answered many times before, I searched but had trouble finding similar conditions, most threads about burning oil are on high mileage engines.

I have an F22B1 I rebuilt (first time building a piston engine) after the timing belt snapped resulting in a few bent valves. I replaced pistons, rings, and crank bearings. I honed the block using a 3 stone hone on a drill from autozone (the finest one they had was much more coarse than what the FSM calls for which could be part of the problem). I replaced the bent valves and valve seals, lapped all the valves by hand, I did not replace the valve guides but they did not have much play (did not use a mic to measure).

Has about 2000 miles on the rebuild, I did not follow any rebuild procedure besides replacing the oil and filter after 30 min of run time. I am burning oil, leading to misfire and having to replace the plugs fairly often. Oil is in the intake manifold so I am assuming I am pressurizing the crank case and oil is being sucked through the PCV.

I cannot find my compression numbers but they were within spec per the FSM. Leak down test results were as follows:
-Cylinder 1: 15% leakage, sounds like leaking into crankcase
-Cylinder 2: 37% leakage, sounds like leaking into cylinder 4?
-Cylinder 3: 20% leakage, sounds like leaking into intake
-Cylinder 4: 20% leakage, sounds like leaking into exhaust

Is there any reason why one cylinder would be leaking into another or was I just confused on what I heard? I was thinking that I should vent the valve cover / run an oil catch can for now but that doesn't address the root cause. What could I have done wrong on the rebuild, clock some rings wrong or do you think it is due to the DIY hone?

Thank you for reading!
Matt