i dont know whats up with my car its a 92 accord lx and when i have it in park or any gear the d4 light is always on. The car drives kinda weird like it really dosent want to go untill you kinda get up to speed.

 

Jumper the blue 2 pin connector, turn on the key and count the D4 light flashes. Then when you have the code you'll know where to start the diagnostics.
http://members.troublecodes.ne...n.jpg
does your speedo work?

 

speedo does work, where is the blue 2 pin connector located? Sorry this is my first honda

 

checked your link and found it, thanks

 

i did this and the engine light and D4 light stayed constant, no flashing

 

Dude i have the same problem as of right now and this is my first honda 92 ex... D4 stays on and my honda doesnt accelerate much. But now it stays on for 2 min then leaves and it switches gears normaly and run beatiful.. But i still got to fix this damn problem. Any solutions. I really dont want to take it to the electrician and pay lots for a little problem. I heard that its the sensors that messed up

 

so why does my D4 and P come on at the same time when i turn on the car? 96 accord

 

faulty switch at the shift lever ?

 

mine stays on no matter how long i drive for, once i get past about 20 mph it runs fine, I've heard it could be the computer, any info will help. thanks

 

just ordered a new computer for the tranny , think this will solve my problem?

 

Don't just throw money/parts at it !

 

If it was just a switch wouldnt it still drive normal, mine has no go until it gets moving

 

Hey if replacing that comp works tell me

 

i should have it early next week, they go for $250 new but you can get them on ebay around $100, il let you know how it works

 

just changed transmission computers and the car drives fine now. If you are looking for another one for your car check ebay.

 

Thanks for posting it now i know what to do but hey just to make sure ur car didnt shift right? either and it accelerated slow like its adding to much force right???

 

felt like it was taking off in 2nd gear instead of 1st

 

felt like it was taking off in 2nd gear instead of 1st

 

As many of you are aware, early 90's Accords regularly have transmission shifting problems (eg. S light flashing or on steady, D4 light flashing, trans takes off in 2nd gear). The most common cause of this is a burnt out TCM.
Below is some info on how to check for codes, TCM location, and most IMPORTANTLY, how to check your TCM.
If you need to get a TCM, please click on this link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1174484
Behind the right hand corner of the dash on the passender's side (just below the glove compartment) you will find 2 connectors taped to the wire harness with blue tape ( unless someone previously removed the tape). One is a three wire connector (data link connector) the other is a two wire connector. By jumping the two wires on this connector, you check for engine and transmission codes.
With the ignition switch off, connect the two wires together. Have a pen and paper handy. Turn the ignition switch on. The S light (or D4 light if your car doesn't have the S light) should start to flash a code. Might be a combination of long and short flashes. A long flash stands for 10, and short flashes are 1. For example, if the light blinks: long-short-short-short, then that is a code 13. When you find out what code it is, post it and I can tell you what is going on. BTW, 90-93 Accords have a bad habit of burning out the trans computers. So sometimes you won't get a code. The light will just stay on steady when you jump the connector.
If the light doesn't blink when you jump the connector, then your TCM (transmission control module) might be bad.
To verify this, remove the TCM ( it's located under the rug on the passenger side bolted to the firewall. You will find two modules bolted to one bracket. The TCM is the smaller of the two, on the right.
To remove it, you'll need to remove the 4 bolts securing the bracket. Then, unplug both computer modules, and gently remove the bracket.
Next, unbolt the TCM from the bracket.
Remove the four screws that hold on the cover.
Look at the board carefully. If it is bad, you will find a burnt out resistor and a leaking capacitor.

]This is the TCM[/B]



With the connector pointing down, the bad spot will be in the lower right corner



This is what the damaged part looks like up close

 

Thanks for the info man.. But mines is messed for sure i need to buy a new one. I need to buy it for a cheap price jesus this sucks. Where can i buy it for cheap instead of ebay.

 

Just bought a new comp for 100 and my car is perf now. Just finsih doing some couple of races with a acura legen and a honda accord lx manual... Acura beat me but a little but he still beat me and honda i smoked him LOL. God i love automatics

 

If you have two equally modded cars, 1 an auto and 1 a manual, and two competent drivers the manual will almost always beat the auto because automatics significantly drops WHP. My 97 LX non vtec 5sp is quicker than my mom's 96 ex vtec auto (I raced a friend to see) because the auto robs so much power. Manuals are better you just have to have more skill. For a prime example drive a 04 Accord V6 6 speed and a V6 auto. I've driven both and the 6 spd is quicker.

 

Yeah of course.. Hey let me ask something else. How much horse power can i get if i add performance headers perf cat back and and brand new muffler