oem_certified_accord

I Know This Has Been Posted Time And Time Again...But I Want To Lay It All Out On The Table For Discussion (Not That It Hasn't Been Done Before)

My understanding is that the f20 is a destroked version of the h22, by 1/5 of a liter i'm guessing. I also hear that most of the parts between the two motors are interchangable because it's basically the same block. So, regardless of the majority of the crowd saying "just go h22, you'll save time and money" . That's a semi-strong point of persuasion in my eyes, but at the same time..i have a thing for not being like the rest and trying what most decline attempting.

Which makes the following questions (most likely faq's) arise in my mind...

1. Will an h22 turbo kit fit on the f20b?

2. The motor mount swap issue is the same as the h22 right?

3. By swapping my ecu with the one that arrives with the engine, my electronic readings should be normal i presume...?

Flat Out : I'm asking if i can run the majority of the h22 parts on this f20 without running into a bulk of conflicts.


In Addition, these are the prices from two sites i scraped up.
---------------------------------
F20B AUTO 1800 US$
ACCORD TYPE R

Motor
Transmission
Engine Wiring Harness
All required Cables
ECU
Distributor
Complete Intake Manifold
Alternator
A/C
Power Steering Pump
All Brackets and Sensors
　

Specifications
Value train: DOCH ,VTEC, 16 val.
Transmission: Automatic <-----Not Needed.
Year: 97-01
Torque : 145 lbs-ft@5500rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Compression Ratio: 11 : 1
HP : 200hp@6800rpm
Redline:7200rpm


----------------------------------------------------------


F20B 97-98 Long Block
200Hp 145Trq 11.0 Compression (JDM)
Price: $ 1300.00 Plus shipping and handling.
Availability: In Stock


- Motor
-Alternator
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Distributor
- Engine Harness
- Comes With All Sensors Needed

Motors average 30,000 miles and come with a 100% start up warranty. All Sensors are guaranteed not broken and in working condition!

BlkChryKord

1. Yes

2. Most likely

3. Not sure what you mean

Flat out: With the exception of the bottom end, yes.

AlmostJDM

1. Yes
2. yes
3. if your car has the same obd2 type be it obd2a or obd2b then yes you should be good

Flat out: same as what BlkChryKord said also you wont be able to use the h22 valve casue the f20b valves have a sharper angle on em and somewhere ive herd there smaller btu i dunno 100% bout that

AlmostJDM

heres the real specs for that engine

Vehicles it came in: Accord SIR/ Torneo SIR

Specifications
Value train: DOCH ,VTEC, 16 val.
Transmission: Automatic
Year: 97-01
Torque : 141 lbs-ft@5500rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Compression Ratio: 11 : 1
HP : 180hp@6800rpm
Redline:7800rpm
ECU: PCB
BORE: 85mm
Stroke: 88mm


and the one that they have the specs for..well sort of

vehicle: accord SIR-T/ Torneo SIR-T

Specifications
Value train: DOCH ,VTEC, 16 val.
Transmission: Manual
Year: 97-01
Torque : 144 lbs-ft@6500rpm
Displacement: 1997cc
Compression Ratio: 11 : 1
HP : 200hp@7200rpm
Redline:8200rpm
ECU: PCF
Bore: 85mm
Stroke: 88mm

there ya go

oem_certified_accord

had to dig up one of my old posts to finalize some understandings...done a lot of archived reading and its makin my head hurt with all this info spinning around me

let me say this first and foremost : i am NOT interested in the h22 as of today, july 20th 2007.

i'm considering a complete swap..motor, man. lsd tranny, ecu, wiring harness, all engine bay components etc.

however, i still have some questions i feel were unanswered in the archives (through the posts i checked)

so again for closure i ask:


1. will any of my existing f22 mounts need to be swapped?

2. p13 ecu for $200 obdI-obdII negative correlation solved, right?

3. the above question, does that go for the harness conversion as well or no?

i know yall are tired of it, but clear it up for me please, this is my summer swap..i'm trying to get it done before NOPI so i can ride nicely to the show

-scratches head-

after all i didn't know HT had been around for 6 yrs.

and remember: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am NOT interested in the h22 as of today, july 20th 2007.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for any information given in response to this post positive or negative.

oem_certified_accord

bump

oem_certified_accord

i clearly stated :

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oem_certified_accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
however, i still have some questions i feel were unanswered in the archives (through the posts i checked) </TD></TR></TABLE>


-sighs- what a waste of a post on your behalf.

mozzandherb

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Flaming removed by moderator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to be the least helpfull and most arrogant p.o.s I have ever seen on any car site. Why don't you ever even TRY to help with some useful knowledge? Instead you bust peoples ***** all over the place without helping at all...why are you even here?

oem_certified_accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There happy????</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes, was that so hard?


Edit: 1994 4Door LX 5spd.

You're So Wonderfull! : no homo

Grandhustleman86

OP I apologize for his actions....Its all because youre not goin h22....how fucked up is this guy....hey mr wonderslo....have you come to the east coast lately....600hp is not much....especially in a fwd....fwd is a hobby not a life....why in the f*** did you spend all that ******* time and money on a platform that is totally useless....get this guy "600hp h-22 cd-5 raping a street near you....NOW!!!"....your a ******* clown dude....h22's are a past time except the h2b's which are worth their weight in gold....on another note my pockets are WAY deeper than yours....and so are many other's....also before you start bitching about who has the faster car save it....because neither of us does....and of course your gonna turn this around on me and say im a hypocrite, I have come to terms that fwd is a "Fun" ride and am not wasting my time and money in my ride....Im about to drop 10 stacks and not shed a tear because I've got another 20 to go to something worth while....the Gov't pays well....look into it and while your at it find you a RWD-AWD....what a FAF .

OP....hopfully everyone has been somewhat helpful....the mounts DO NOT have to be swapped, but for safe measures I would invest in some ESP-net poly mounts....as for the ECU issue the p13 will solve your problem....and also is able to be chipped for you future boost application(not very cheap tho)....as for your harness question im kinda lost....go into a bit more detail....

Grandhustleman86

other than the ability to chip the p13 being rather expensive why the p28 route....the least expensive route I see....had to many problems with burning chips up using the p28 with the h-f series....i also use chrome FYI

Grandhustleman86

Flaming removed by moderator.

Loco-B

wow.....this thread could have had some useful information for me.....

i have an f20b sitting in my garage right now.......and a lot of unanswered questions. I come into a thread to look for them. Instead, i read a bunch of flaming.

Grandhustleman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">45k???</TD></TR></TABLE> ok first thats a RE-Enlistment bonus....because im goin to continue to serve

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i make over 2x what you make AFTER TAXES</TD></TR></TABLE> hopfully your gonna clear nearly $170.xxx this year....and if you make two times that please fill me in because im intrested....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However.. IF YOU ARE IN IRAQ....I DO sincerely appreciate the effor on your part providing the freedom that makes this countrry great... </TD></TR></TABLE> Duly noted....thank you....we need all the support we can get.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been in the game for a while, had a 10 second Dodge dart for years when i was a kid ( You were probably just being born),... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice....My first project was a 69' Camaro SS 396 Berger Special Edition....It was a father-son project....it turned out to be a low 9sec ride....and well that was in 95' so your probably right about the experience thing....but V-8s is where to learn....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Wonderfull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The accord is just that a hobby....</TD></TR></TABLE>

inturn also is mine....yours is a good outcome indeed....600hp in any motor is impressive....WHP of course

oem_certified_accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HateBreeder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow.....this thread could have had some useful information for me.....

i have an f20b sitting in my garage right now.......and a lot of unanswered questions. I come into a thread to look for them. Instead, i read a bunch of flaming.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


good deal, with 2 questions.

where did you source your 2.0 from?

& how much did you pay for it?

Loco-B

wow those are two questions i didnt want asked of me.

lets put it this way. I payed about as much for it as i would have, had I bought a 92-96 JDM H22a OBD1 with 5 speed tranny. I sourced it from a guy i've sourced all my JDM **** from. Gave him a call, got him the money, and about a month later i had a motor sitting on a crate in my driveway.

bonuses to this motor. Higher redline, LSD, can stay OBD2. And surprisingly enough these motors take to bolt ons very nicely. the simple I/H/E can give you a bonus 15 horses out of the box. Plus IMO i think they sound 5x better than an H. And this is all without paying the price for an OBD2 H22a4 prelude Type S motor

From the research i've done about the F20b, forget about getting a chipped ECU as stated above. Totally unnecessary unless your running boost or you want to run an EMS like chrom or hondata or something. You can use the ECU that comes with it. However since our CD chassis accords are OBD2a and the F20b is OBD2b you will need a harness rewire done. This can be achieved by a couple places out there. Rywire out in cali is the most reputable. For the issue with the motor mounts. All you need is the transmission or passenger side mount. this can be purchased at hasport. the same mount that is needed for the H22.

quite honestly this motor is just as viable an option as an H. thats why i bought it. Also keep in mind who your ordering from. Automatic F20b's came with 20 less horsepower. Some shops will sell you just a long block that might have originally been automatic.

Loco-B

wow your right. My facts were a little backwards.

the mount you need is the drivers side/timing belt side. And I completely forgot that the 94's were OBD1. I guess at that point, if i had owned a 94 i probably would have gone with the H series. But here in WI the emission laws are similar to cali in which your stuff all have to be "carb legal" and swaps and whatnot has to be within the specified grouping in order to get your tags renewed. So since i own a 96, i wanted something OBDII.

and unfortunately the only OBDII options were the type s - $3900+
or the f20b $1500+

yeah the redline dont really matter to me. i mean how often your really bring your car up into that range besides on a track. And yeah there is 14 lbs/ft less torque, but i highly doubt the difference in feel can be that significant. i just liked it because of what the OP stated about being different. its something to be proud of, if you can stand out from the rest. I mean look at what you've done. A 600hp H-series is definitely something to hold your head up high for. Same goes for me. If i can follow through with this. Im sure the pride in having recognition for "oh i know that accord" or "yeah thats one of the very few f20b coupes" is a cool thought.

oem_certified_accord

well, i'm considering it because all accords here are dialed out as h22 powerplant holders, i want something different. seeing as how i'm not one to pop my hood, it would be my "mystery motor" . yes my car is OBDI, the harness conversion is a bit of a consideration but not that much (as long as it's in the below $300 range) +


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HateBreeder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And surprisingly enough these motors take to bolt ons very nicely. the simple I/H/E can give you a bonus 15 horses out of the box. Plus IMO i think they sound 5x better than an H. And this is all without paying the price for an OBD2 H22a4 prelude Type S motor

From the research i've done about the F20b, forget about getting a chipped ECU as stated above. Totally unnecessary unless your running boost or you want to run an EMS like chrom or hondata or something. You can use the ECU that comes with it. However since our CD chassis accords are OBD2a and the F20b is OBD2b you will need a harness rewire done. This can be achieved by a couple places out there. Rywire out in cali is the most reputable.

quite honestly this motor is just as viable an option as an H. thats why i bought it. Also keep in mind who your ordering from. Automatic F20b's came with 20 less horsepower. Some shops will sell you just a long block that might have originally been automatic. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the `Fin of this thread is for me to have all the facts , pro's and con's , numbers and accessories needed for this swap lain out for me clearly. i've gotten clearance from the general manager at my job (mazda) to use the tech facilities to do my swap as long as needed so i hope to knock it out in one saturday if working at a constant rate with about 5 or 6 other heads helping.

last questions : it IS the same as an h22 swap with the acception of the harness conversion issue, Right?

and can it be an easy drop & swap - plug & play if you have the info needed and you know what your doing step by step?

thank yall for the help and for not kickin my panels (givin me hell)

Loco-B

i wouldnt say that any swap is plug and play or drop and swap. You have to be prepared for all sorts of issues. Doesnt matter how much research you do. There is always a chance of mechanical failure too.

My motor has been sitting on a stand for well over 2 months now. I've checked all major components of the thing including bottom end top end, trans parts. I've also replaced the water pump and timing belt, cleaned egr valve, filled and drained all fluids at least twice now. Cleaned all the sensors and re-greased necessary components. Prepped all the power steering line. I've got a slew of different size hoses and yards of electrical wire to use at my disposal. The only thing i'm waiting for is my electrical harness to get back from Rywire. Once its back i plan on knocking this thing out in under a week. Got my garage to use......no lifts.

However yes the swap is similar to an H from what i've read on both. But you cant take just my advice you have to do some research on your own too.

there isnt much info on the f20b swap out there. i've been using this guide as a reference. A lot of information is covered in this article.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.....html

oem_certified_accord

i hear you, i'll just take it in strides, good lookin on the guide though.

Anton10567

Having problem's with wiring my f20b engine . It's going into a 2000 accord 2 door . the problem is with the obd2 wiring to the distributor and the crank sensor what do I do to make it work ???? I'm lost .....

oem_certified_accord

bump for a man in need of guidance.

Loco-B

i'd say he might have more luck posting a new thread.

contact mr.wonderful he should be able to help you out with the crank sensor issue.

for the dizzy, i'm not to sure about that one. I thought it might have to do with the fact that your 2000 accord had an external coil, and the f20 has an internal coil. not sure though

Bense

fun

oem_certified_accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HateBreeder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However since our CD chassis accords are OBD2a and the F20b is OBD2b you will need a harness rewire done. This can be achieved by a couple places out there. Rywire out in cali is the most reputable. </TD></TR></TABLE>

simply send Rywire the harness that comes with the engine, no?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quite honestly this motor is just as viable an option as an H. thats why i bought it. Also keep in mind who your ordering from. </TD></TR></TABLE>

h22a obd1 complete swap = $2100
f20b obd2 complete swap = $1700

yep, it's a toss up.