Hello,
I pulled the ABS code on my girlfriend's 92 Accord EX and got
FLASH-long pause-FLASH-long pause-FLASH

That doesn't seem to match up with any codes......
any ideas?

ABS light won't come on until she's driven down the driveway...about 150 feet. Dunno if that helps.
Thanks,
Mike

 

have you checked the brake fluid in the mastercylinder resivor, and in the abs unit resivor? if either are low you will get that code, also i found on one of my ex's accords, that the abs light would comes and i would move the plug on the back of the alternator and it would go away, jus a couple quick things to look at real quick, other then that you will be looking at sensors.

 

The code may be the main code 1 with no sub-code.

Diagnosis/symptom: ABS pump motor over-run

Probable causes (can be): - Pressure switch stuck off.
- Open circuit between the pressure switch and ABS control unit.
- Open circuit in P-SW circuit between the pressure switch and body ground, or a poor ground.
- Drop in pump discharge volume.
- Leaking outlet valve.
- Leaking relief valve.
- ABS brake fluid leakage.
- Faulty ABS control unit.

Usually, a leak from a seal is the cause.

 

Low fluid level is the primary cause of this DTC. Since it takes so long for it to come on, I would assume that during the time the light is off, the ABS pump is running constantly.

 

You guys gave me some things to look at this weekend...THANKS!
I checked ABS fluid and the brake M/C fluid a while back but will check it once more to be sure.

 

Reading this link and no joy todate scanning internet, found this site , every one mentions the diagnostic obd plug, theres 2, a 2 pin and a 3 pin,can any one tell me which plug to use - 2 or 3 pin? if 3 pin which wires to short to flash the abs light?

thank you andy

 

Two pin.

The same plug that you jump to read CELs you also jump to read ABS codes. It makes the other light flash though.

At least that's how it was on my old '93 Accord (which had an O2 sensor code when I got it and later an ABS code).

 

Sorry for not updating....I checked all the easy things and found nothing so I decided to grab the bull by the horns and fortune smiled on me so far....I found on eBay the modulator and motor with accumulator for around $75 that was working when pulled off a 92 Accord EX!!! Awesome find but need to schedule some time to swap the parts. I'm trying to decide if I should swap out both components or start with the motor/accumulator first then the modulator.......or the other way around. Thoughts?


PS Let me know if you want me to detail what I checked...

 

If you replace EVERYTHING, your problem is likely to get fixed. Though, be careful about replacing ABS components with used parts.

 

I would agree with you but the risk is simply no ABS.....and $75.....the pricing for new parts from Majestic Honda exceeds the value of the car!

eBay parts...100,000 miles
Dead parts on the car.....200,000 miles

 

My thoughts are that's an expensive solution for a problem that is usually cured by bleeding the air out of the abs system. Maybe that's just me though.

 

True enough but no where did I read that bleeding the system is something to try for this code. Besides, if that didn't work, when would I ever luck out and find that good of a deal...exact same year and make?

I have 5 cars at various stages of restoration....$75 is a cheap solution...mechanics labor here is $80/hr and I do much better work than they do.....it's all relative, I guess.

 

If it's a code 1 (that looks to be what you're describing) the first possible problem listed in a factory service manual is air in the fluid/system. And from personal experience 95% of the time that's what the problem is. Now i'm not saying that's what your problem is, but it's the first thing i check for, and costs very little in both time and money.

 

I hope you are right! I was using the post above and my 91 manual lists the following....ALB fuse, Motor Relay, Pressure Switch, Accumulator, Modulator.....not a peep on air in fluid system. This is on Page 13-50 of the 1991 Honda Accord Factory Manual.

Fuse is good, Pressure switch checked good electrically, couldn't check the other two easily...

The list above is similar where I can't easily check the various internal valve leakages so about as easy to swap out the parts anyway........

HOWEVER...if you think a bleeding will work, I'm all for it being the fix, believe me....curious what phootbag thinks.........?