distra

I've read the FAQ, great write-up BTW, read my manual several times and started in on my brakes last night. Here is what happened. I got the four bolts off the back side of the knuckle that hold the bearing in place. I then tried to used the hub puller, but it just drove the axel out the back almost out of the wheel bearing. I then tried to loosen the lower ball joint castle nut, but the sucker is frozen. Soaked with PB, tried a breaker bar and snapped a socket So I think the bearing is rusted to the knuckle and the lower ball joint castle nut is froze as well. Any suggestions on how to free these up? If I get the lower ball joint seperated, how in the hell do I get the bearing-rotor out of the knuckle? Thanks.

TouringAccord

I had a similar problem with my 95 EX when I did my brakes, though I didn't have a problem with the lower ball joint nut.

My bearing was so rusted into the knuckle that even with the 4 bolts removed from the back a slide hammer ended up pulling the hub out of the bearing. I removed the knuckle from the car, took it into a machine shop and had them press the bearing out. I also had them press the hub into a new bearing. I then cleaned and greased the bore of the knuckle where the bearing goes to help prevent it from rusting in there again.

distra

Here's an update. I had two mechanic friends stop by this weekend and try to get the hub/bearings/rotor out of the knuckle. After both of them saying, "it should just pop out of there" about 100 times, they gave up. I took the whole knuckle to the auto parts store and they broke their small press trying to get it out. So they have sent the knuckle to a bigger machine shop to hopefully have it pressed out. What **** poor design for something that get serviced every 50-60k.

TouringAccord

haha, yep, gotta love it.

When you get the knuckle back, make sure you clean and grease that bore before putting the bearing back in to help prevent this from happening again.

This most likely isn't an option right now since I'm sure you've already bought the rotors and that but you could redo the setup and go from hub-over-rotor to the much easier rotor-over-hub. You would want new bearings, need new hubs from an Acura and rotors from an Acura too I believe, I don't fully remember but there is some info on it in the FAQ. You can either use the stock calipers or you can upgrade at the same time. I plan on doing this to my next Accord when I change the brakes for the first time.

distra

Touring, I should have done the conversion, but I do already have the parts. The machine shop pressed the bearings out and replaced them with new ones. I got the knuckle mounted back on the car last night. I went to put the pads on the calipers and wouldn't you know, the parts store gave me the wrong pads! This is the break job from hell and I still have to do the other side! Thanks for the info, hopefully the other side goes a bit easier.

TouringAccord

yeah, hindsight is always 20/20

These brakes can do that to you, they can truely be a PITA at times.

yep, hopefully the other side goes smoother, but if not you atleast know what to expect this time.

walker111

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, hindsight is always 20/20

These brakes can do that to you, they can truely be a PITA at times.

yep, hopefully the other side goes smoother, but if not you atleast know what to expect this time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The brakes and the location of the fuel filter is some of the worst Honda engineering that I've seen! But, I still love the cars!