markski037

Ello, I have a 95 Accord EX 5spd with 65k on it, today I wanted to do a lil burn-out with it and when I held the clutch and pressed the gas, let go of the clutch and no go. . . WTF ???? I didnt hear no grinding, snapping nothing. I can start the car by pressing the clutch, change gears without pressing the clutch, and when i press the gas pedal the speedomet goes along with the RPM-meter, even when its not in gear it still goes up. . . Special thanx to AAA for towing my car back to my house for free. . . If anyone could help me out with what could have gone wrong with it, or know what to go looking for please let me know, Thank You

I'm goin to unbolt the tranny by the weekend and try to fix it myself if it isn't something major, if it's major then I'm just going have to go looking for a junkyard tranny.

Accord2k-Hybrid

I could be wrong, but judging by the fact that the speedometer follows the RPMs, you probably broke a gear or somthing since you get your speedometer readings from the tranny. Could be the differential.

markski037

anyone else got some ideas????

deserthonda

make sure u don't have a broken axle,,,,,,,,,,,,,could also be ur clutch totally toasted

jli18

might be your clutch, u said ur car has 65k, have you get ur clutch replaced, usually ppl replace the clutch very 60k.

jli18

every* my bad

H2290

You didn't hold down the clutch and completely floor it did you? If so your clutch is toasted.

markski037

thanx guys, i did hold down the clutch and accelerated almost to the floor i went to auto zone today and if it is that my clutch is toased it'll cost me about 120 bucks and my own labor, because i dont want to take it to a mechanic and have him charge me a chit load of cash

NAiL05

When you did this lil "burnout" did your wheels spin or did you smell a lotta clutch.

markski037

no clutch smell no wheels spinning no nothing, didnt hear anything grind or snap or nothing, the wheels didnt even moved

H2290

Well if you had on or near the floor and nothing was spinning you were probably toasting the clutch and didn't even know.

Schmitey

I'm guessing clutch, if you broke something the car would have at least lurched a little. Transmissions also have a tendency of letting you know if something is broken by making noise and chattering at you. But is it just me 65k (on a 95?, damn that's low miles) miles doesn't sound like much to me, I know it depends on how you drive but its not unheard of to put twice that on a stock clutch. Then again if you make a habit of roasting it like that you get towed by AAA.

A clutch job is entirely doable in one (long) day. It does help considerably to have a second person around to help you pull the tranny out and put it back in. The tranny weighs maybe 60 lbs. and a couple decent size guys can thow it into place without jacks. I would sugges two things. 1. get ahold of a Helm's dealer repair manual (it makes the job sooooooo much easier) or a helpful dealorship may copy the pages for you if you buy him a beer. 2. Make sure you get a plastic alignment tool with the clutch, it'll save you a headache when you can't get the tranny to line back up. Use locktite on the pressure plate bolts and you do not have to disattache/bleed any of the clutch components. Double check that the fork is not bent as well and REPLACE YOUR THROW OUT BEARING while you're in there. This is also a good time to replace the rear oil seal if you feel so inclined, but dealorship tells me they rarely leak. One thing I started to do that saves so much effort and hair...lets say you take off the tranny mount, get a plastic bag put all the parts and bolts in the bag and label it with a permanent marker. Sounds simple enough but since I started this I've saved myself mega time and haven't lost a bolt yet.

The biggest problem you can expect is getting the lower ball joints out. I rented all the tools (don't use the fork unless you want to replace them!, it tears up the rubber boot) and they just weren't coming out. Out of desperation my dad and I soaked them in WD40 and put an air chisel to it from the bottom (make sure the nut is still threaded so you can repair any bent threads). They popped right out!!! Another thing is when pounding on the axles make sure the axle nut is still threaded on to again repair any bent threads (my buddy threw away a $100 axle because he got impatient and bent the threads with a metal hammer). On the drivers side with intermediate shaft you do not have to remove the axle from the hub, only from the intermediate shaft and swing it out of the way. Oh, also a good idea to replace the tranny seals where the axles go in. You can use straight 5w30 oil I believe (dealer told me that's what they use), someone verify me on the weight. Easiest way to separate the tranny is to jack it up after all bolts (including starter!) are out and slide a skinny paint scraper or something in there. Then lower it down and slide something in from topside. jack it up again and slide something bigger in there, lower it down and eventually it'll slide off. That's all I can think of at the moment, let us know if you got any problems. FYI on the tranny mount bolts that thread into the engine block, take it slow and put WD40 on them. I had a freakish thing happen on one bolt where aluminum got stuck to the threads while coming out and stripped about an inch of it, corrosion or something who knows.

Good luck and have fun busting a knuckle

P.S. I almost forgot. There is a clutch access panel on bottomside of the tranny. Its a little sheet metal shiny thing with like 3 bolts. Check in there, if the clutch is toast I would think you'd see plenty of dust in the bottom of it.


Modified by Schmitey at 11:38 AM 10/28/2005


Modified by Schmitey at 11:42 AM 10/28/2005

s13_240sx_92

I'd have to say check the axles first, although i would suspect they would make some noise.

jack up the front of the car, put it on stands, chock the rear wheels and take off the tires. see whats going on from underneath.

GL

kulrevon

If it were the clutch and then it wouldnt transmit power to the tranny. and if no power to the tranny your ring gear on the diff wouldnt spin

but

you are getting a reading on your speedo so it is transmitting power. you either broke an axle or messed up your diff.

thats just my take on it.

Schmitey

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were the clutch and then it wouldnt transmit power to the tranny. and if no power to the tranny your ring gear on the diff wouldnt spin

but

you are getting a reading on your speedo so it is transmitting power. you either broke an axle or messed up your diff.

thats just my take on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well said, i missed that man. Something about that speedometer moving isn't right. Well what I said still goes, take the tranny off and see what you got. Might start checking the area for used tranny's and/or parts.

deserthonda

raise frt wheels, start car, put it in gear and chk the axkes if they are spinning ,if neither axle is spinning, u got clutch, tranny problems,

if only 1 axle is spinning , ..shut off down the car, put a block under the axle that was spinning still keeping the other wheel off the ground, start car , put in gear and see if the other axle spins ,, if not there is your problem .. ,, u have to do this because sometimes with both wheels off the ground and even if car is in gear only 1 wheel will spin, if u try this test u will know for sure if it is tranny time removal or just an axle

markski037

aaaight im bout to go outside and get under myt honda, i'll keep you guys updated on how that job gonna turn out, and thanx so much for your help

markski037

ello, i found the problem, check it out - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/markski037/my_photos , im not sure wut this part is called but its the thing that powers the wheels , damn it all the junk yards are closed rite now and i want to get this fixed now

s13_240sx_92

It looks like the axle. Just buy a new one from autozone. If its the intermediate shaft (the last picture), You might want to get that from the junk yard.


Axle should be around $60 or less

H2290

Yep, it's an axle, they aren't really that expensive and no problem to fix.

markski037

ello, i ran into a problem while removing the old cv joints, the boot doesnt want to go though the U thing that is holding the shocks, and goes all the way to the top, i got the old one out by cutting threw the boot and just ripping the thing apart getting grease all over,, but my problem comes in when i'll try putting in the new one i wouldn't want to damage it, any ideas on how i can get it through there safely?????? thanx

markski037

anyone wit some ideas ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

deserthonda

if ur frt suspension ( struts ) is stock it should go in,, u might have to wiggle it a few times but just to make sure, remove the fork,, 14mm bolt on top, 17mm bolt + nut on the bottom,, install axle then reinstall fork ...

markski037

thanx desert,

i went to auto zone today and got a new cv and brought them my old one all i got from the sales person was " did you go faking offroading with that thing??????" lol

i put the cv in today withoout unbolting the fork by wiggling it and i still got a problem, but i still cant connect the 4 parts together because the parts fit in there so tightly, i unbolted the wheel from the top leaving it half-hanging, and still dont have enough room, i tried unbolting the bottom screw that is upside down all the way at the bottom ,right behind the disk but the nut turns with the bolt that is on, and impossible to undo it. . . i knoe i'll have to get that replaced so it actually will do its job of holding the car together, but if i'll take it out i wount be able to drive it until i get a replacement, any ideas would work as long as i can fit those pieces together and bolt it back up, without any more damage that i have done, thank you