GhostAccord

I never put jack stands like that down on asphalt without a piece of plywood under them. Concrete would be about the only thing strong enough to place them on without plywood.

Zak325

Yeah they're under plywood now. Colors. The only 2 I'm contemplating are black and the sage green metallic that's already on. I've been thinking of doing midnight purple like the r34 skylines but I don't have the ***** to drive a purple car. I just applied at a few more places so maybe I can get some money flowing for this car

NZXTInerTia

My boss ALWAYS gets after me for using jack stands on the asphalt in the parking lot. Definitely can do a number on it if the weight isn't evenly laid out. i.e. a tire.

Zak325

Any reason to keep abs? I wanna clean this engine bay and keep what's needed. Is ABS a must have? Or can I get rid of it

Zak325

For anyone who's done the auto-5 speed swap - Would it be better to swap everything now, before I get an engine, or wait till I get one? I can find everything to do on here, I was just wondering what would be easier

Mishako129

It would be easier to swap it out with the engine out. It can be very tough to drop the AT and then install the MT sometimes. That was the hardest part about this swap. Plus you have to remove the axles and lower ball joint and tie rods. Its a hardcore job, you can choose to do things twice over or you can do them once during your swap, you're choice.

DeadlockRiff

Hardcore swap? I may be overwhelming for some but quite straight. :/ It's just time consuming to get it all done. If you know your plan before hand, give it a Saturday.

Drill two holes, swap pedals, change 1 driveshaft, a tad of wiring, running the new cables instead of the auto cable.
With the engine out it is cake to get it done. Ecu change recommended but not required. The car while just drive funny under 15mph and use more fuel when cold.

If you do it later you will be doing the same job twice along with things that would've been sooo much easier now. So, nao, do it nao.

Zak325

Yeah, I read that the driveshaft has to be changed. I only have 1 so with my luck that will be the one that needs to be replaced. Haha, really sorry for all these questions in general, I know most of you wanna be like "www.google.com there is your answer" but some of these questions just aren't available, mostly due to the fact that the Accord isn't as popular as a Civic or a Teggy or something. I have a manual now so hopefully I'll be able to find out some more things for myself but I'm guessing the junkyard would be the best place to go for this stuff? I have an uncle thats gonna hook me up for parts so I'm good there. But thanks for you guys's help so far, its really helped.

DeadlockRiff

Is it the long driveshaft or the short one? The short one, the passenger side you can keep. If it's loooooong, chuck that *****.

For which stuff?
The pedals, yeah go ahead.

Shift cables and shifter? Yeah, if the bushings are shot I'd go ahead and order the bronzoil bushihgs if you have the extra $$ Alot more feel to them than the stock bushings, shifts feel quite solid and responsive :p

Manual trans mount? Yeah

Rear Mount? Yes (the manual is full solid, the auto goes soft to hard and back)

Clutch/flywheel/pressure plate? I'd say no, the effort required and the possibility of a bad one in the end just isnt worth it. if you get a good set with a junkyard motor than sweetsauce.

Master/slave cylinders for the clutch? Iffy, be prepared to rebuild them or buy new ones if they don't hold pressure or leak.

Clutch lines? You can get stock lines or for about 40-55$ you can get 4 foot of stainless steel line with ends on them with 2 M10x1.5---(whatever the line uses) adapters for your slave and master cylinder.
This will eliminate the dampener the stock lines come with. That of which softens the felt clutch engagement for comfort, not required obviously.

Driveshaft? If it seems to be in good condition, no clicking when spun and held at their max angles, no torn boots,no massive rust. Then go for it.

Mishako129

Yeah is hardcore, getting all sweaty and dirty taking out the driveshafts, then mating up the MT after dropping the AT, its not something for the faint of heart. Doing any serious car work by yourself is strenuous and "hardcore".

DeadlockRiff

My take on it all is, it's a bloody honda.

Everything is small, light, and fits like a puzzle.


EDIT: I mean, a 'big block' that weighs less than 80kilos? (175lbs) Not much haha.

Try 640lbs and 7.5+ liters

Mishako129

Yeah but I don't have cement where I live only gravel and the mosquitos where I live are HORRIBLE and when you're underneath your car with those things all sweaty and HOT its like hell on earth lol. Then when things go bad (like stripping a bolt or something) it really is car mechanic hell. I do the work anyways though cause I know its worth it.

Zak325

Thanks deadlock, I don't even need to search the Internet now. Haha. The driveshaft does seem like the shorter one from the diagrams I've seen. It is good, but the rubber black piece is ripped a little, I'll just end up gettin new ones anyway.

DeadlockRiff

If you have the patience (and the sense to not lose parts of the axle) you can repair the axle boot yourself for 11$ + the cost of the clamp and some axle grease. Sometimes the boots come with a small bit of grease.

Zak325

In other news, I got a job at a local farm so hopefully parts quicker! I actually get paid pretty well, although GTA V comes out soon so.... who knows where all the money will go. I am shooting for before winter to put the f22 in the accord which I think is doable... The interior is mostly back together and not really clean, but bearable and much much better than it was when I got the car. So there won't be many updates until I get the engine, unless I make some stupid decision and buy something else before the engine, which will probably happen, haha. I emailed hmotors and said how much estimated it will be to ship it to north east Pennsylvania, but they haven't gotten back to me yet so I figured I'd ask here too.

NZXTInerTia

Try M's JDM motor. Tons of legit JDM parts/motors with good prices. I follow them on instagram and see stuff all the time.

Zak325

Yeah I follow them too. I'll check prices

Zak325

Prices are the same for the engine, I'll email both about shipping and whoever can get it here cheaper, I'll buy from. Would it be easier for me to buy a manual from synchrotech or just get one from the junkyard?

Zak325

Since I took my suspension apart to paint my calipers and get everything sorted out, is replacing my ball joints 100% completely necessary?

NZXTInerTia

If the boots are intact then they should be fine.

Zak325

I got my automatic transmission. I will do a straight up trade for a manual if you drive it to north east pennsylvania. I'll put up pics soon and ill also post an ad in the fs/ft thread. The guy said it is a (new to him) transmission (not the 388k one) and is in new good shape. PM me if interested

Zak325

Zak325

Can someone let me know if this is a good deal? (Keep in mind I have 388k on my suspension and wanna go low anyway)

katzenjammer84

I would at least grease them.

Zak325

And is 50$ for a 5 speed ecu worth it? And also is it needed for a manual to 5 speed swap