93 is toast, bought a 90 with troubles
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93 is toast, bought a 90 with troubles
My step-son put the 93 into an irrigation ditch, boucned out and hit a pole. Car is totaled (he's fine by some miracle ) and insurance paid me 4900. Bought a 90 with 115,000 miles and it ran fine for 2 days. Now the tach is bouncing around and the auto transmission is shifting late or hard or both. Any ideas from the pundits here?
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Re: 93 is toast, bought a 90 with troubles (jdowen2)
Possibly a bad Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) or sounds like a bad tranny ECU/main ECU . Are you getting any CEL or transmission codes?
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Re: 93 is toast, bought a 90 with troubles (Stew Pidasso)
how to on a replace of th vss
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinth...tLocation.html
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinth...tLocation.html
#4
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Re: 93 is toast, bought a 90 with troubles (jdowen2)
My step-son put the 93 into an irrigation ditch, boucned out and hit a pole. Car is totaled (he's fine by some miracle ) and insurance paid me 4900. Bought a 90 with 115,000 miles and it ran fine for 2 days. Now the tach is bouncing around and the auto transmission is shifting late or hard or both. Any ideas from the pundits here?
--your bouncy tach is a bad connector in the distrobutor.. here is how to fix it, i posted this a couple of days back after i got some help on mine.. i found this DIY fix on the G2 teg site very helpful.. goodluck w/ it .. why didnt you get another 92-93 90-91accord are **** IMO i love my 92 over my 91 anyday!
Fix Bouncing Tachometer.
Your tach bounces around, you get a misfire, and you get a code 15. Ok, the reason this is happening is because you are not getting a GOOD connection on your igniter. Those connections have to be TIGHT! Also, dielectric grease will help a TON! This is how you fix the problem.
Remove your distributor cap. If you still have the dist shield in place under the cap, then you will have to remove the rotor, and the shield. If your shield is already gone, you do not need to remove the rotor. When looking down onto the distributor, you will see the coil, the rotor, and some wires leading to a small, brown thing. This is the igniter. There will be 4 connections. 1 on the side, and 3 on top. Honda uses spade connectors to make these connections to the igniter. Remove, and work on only ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME. Take each connector, and with it removed from the igniter, place it in the needle-nose pliers and crimp down a little tighter on the spade connector. Then put a dab of dielectric grease inside the spade connector. Then put the connector back on the igniter. The connection should be very tight. Do this with all the connections to the igniter. Replace the rotor (if you removed it) and then the cap. Then, under the fuse panel under the hood, remove the ECU and Hazard fuses for about 60 seconds. Replace both, and restart the car WITHOUT touching the gas. Let it run for 60 seconds without ANY accessories on. Then after 60 seconds, turn ALL the accessories on and let it run for 60 seconds. Turn the car off, restart it, and go have fun.
I was having this very same problem with my 92 GSR. After trial and error I found this to be the problem. I fixed it the first time without dielectric grease. The problem came back a few days later. I then redid the procedure and used dielectric grease. It has now been one month, no problems. Also, I did pick up a power gain as well.
Eric
gsrrcr92@aol.com
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