FIDIRO

I've had this car for over 13 years now and never gave me any problems until now. I have only about 60K miles on it. It is a 92 Accord EX coupe 5speed and recently it has been giving me starting issues. I have just changed distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs all BOSCH and plugs are platinum 4's.

It does crank and crank and sometimes it just wants to start but nothing. When it does start it just dies, but I have tried to hold the throttle down when it does start and it stays on. And as long as I keep it running, after it eventually does start, it will drive good and never shuts down.

My idle is a little low but should not create this starting problem, it is at about 625 rpms.

Anyone know where to start. Possibly relay problems, fuel pump going. I have not paid too much attention to the fuel pump recently but I'll do it tomorrow, because I did use to hear it when I first turned the key and I have not listened for it yet to see if it is the problem.

HELP PLEASE

conker

I basically had the same issue, of course I have a few more miles:


Car has always, untill recently, fired in a couple of rotations (1/2 second or so), then it started taking a couple of seconds, then it got to the point that it would almost start, die, then take about 10 tries to get it fired up. Did what you did, plugs, rotor, cap, and it seeme to help a bit. I replaced the fuel pump last week and ran a tank of Techron fuel treatment thru. It still is not catching like it used to (unless it is warm, which someone suggested points to a compression issue) but has not had any failure to starts since the work was done. If I do have another episode of having to turn it over a dozen times to get it started I will replace the wires for the dizzy and plugs ($50), then move on to injectors ($100), then fuel pump ($250). I can live with it like it is right now, it is a great engine but it can't run like new forever. Hope you get it sorted.

Ross 2.0

First thing to do is get rid of those crap plugs and get a set of NGK or Denso non platinums.
Does the engine spin over really fast when it's not starting (sounds like it's spinning without restriction?) You could have a leaking fuel injector(s) that is washing down the cylinder walls and causing it to loose compression.
But either way I would have a compression test and a leakdown test done to see if that gives any results

FIDIRO

Thanks conker. WOW, is that a diesel odometer, LOL. I don't think mine is compression issues. I have always maintained it well with oil and filter changes every 3k miles or most of the time every 6 months wich would only sometimes be 1k miles. It does not burn any oil.

I have done some more research about this starting issue, and it seems that from 90-92, and might also be some later models as well, there is a common problem with a EFI MAIN RELAY. It seems to be worst in hot weather and that is what I'm experiencing. I will be replacing it soon and see what happens. It's about 45 bucks and it's somewhere to start.

BTW it's nice to see that many miles on a gasser, truely not a lemon.

Ross 2.0

That's not uncommon to see such high mileage on a Honda. I've seen an accord with 400+ on it and still looks great (stock clutch too))

If you do a search there is a DIY to fixing the main relay somewhere

FIDIRO

MooGoCow, why do say to change the plugs. I was told that the 4's where no good for american muscle cars but for imports they doing pretty well. Have you or anyone you know have had any issues with them?

I don't think compression is an issue. When I do finally get it to start it runs like it should, no power loss, it's smooth running, no shaking.

I Just posted above about the EFI Relay and I'll probably start with that then hope for the best. I really hope it's not compression issues, it's only got about 60K miles.

Ross 2.0

Bosch plugs do not work good in Hondas. They will work with just about anything BUT imports. I see issues with them all the time in my shop they cause misfire codes and all kinds of stuff in new and older Hondas. Do yourself a favor and get OEM plugs (and keep OEM wires too).

To avoid the $80+ to buy a new main (EFI) relay look for that DIY and you can fix it yourself with a soldering gun

FIDIRO

Thanks, I'll try to look for the fix you mention and see what I can come up with.

As for the ignition parts, I just put them on about 2 months ago so I don't want to spend another $60 for replacements yet. Before I changed to all BOSCH, I was using the original cap,rotor and wires with splitfire plugs. The plugs were in for about 11years/40k miles never created any problems as for the rest it was still all original from factory.

I do have another question, when I changed the cap and rotor I noticed another part inside the cap that looked like another rotor. I don't know what the name for it would be but it looked like it had a hair line crack on the plastic and I would like to replace it if I can figure out what it is called. Thanks for all your info.

Ross 2.0

can you take a picture of it?

BLKFLSH

First check to see if the fuel pump is running when the key is turned on. If the fuel pump does run, check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If it dies right after you release the key, I would suspect the ignition switch.

knucklehead11

I'll back up conker with the mileage on that car. Here's mine from April when I hit 250,000.



And go here to see a retarded *** video I did when the mileage rolled over:

http://vids.myspace.com/index....5&n=2

Right now it's at about 253,000.

FIDIRO

MooGoCow, if I get a chance I'll pull the cap off and take a pic. The part I'm refering to is mounted just below the rotor inside the bottom left of distributor. I changed the cap and rotor over 2 months ago and I don't really remember if it actually spins like the rotor, but it did look like it sends spark just like it.


These cars with this much mileage, have the engines or trans ever been rebuilt or needed to be open for any internal work.


Modified by FIDIRO at 6:34 AM 7/6/2006

Ross 2.0

The one i talked about has never been open except for a head gasket.

if you could point out what you are talking about it would be good. it sounds like you are talking about one of the sensors inside (tdc probably)

conker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These cars with this much mileage, have the engines or trans ever been rebuilt or needed to be open for any internal work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never had any invasive engine work done. I can also agree with MooGoCow3 on the clutch. Still on my original, no sign of slipping, gears work great, no grinds. Other than routine maintenance, the following:
- a distributor housing (started making making a clatter noise at about 130,000)
- a radiator (cracked along the top at about 150,000)
- AC conversion and rebuild (failed at 180,000)
- igniter (failed while driving at 250,000)

nagging issues at this mileage
- starting hesitation
- clutch pedal is a bit crunchy/creaky and gets harder to push when hot (just did a flush and bleed with slight improvement)
- a shudder during clutch engagement sometimes when first starting out in the morning
- window and power lock failure on rear drivers door

It is my daily drive to keep the miles off the S2000 so none are important or effect driveability enough to spend $$ on. I keep saying the clutch be fine when I have to replace it but the damn thing won't give out. I f'n love this car (just about as much as the S) and will be sad to see it go.

knucklehead11

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FIDIRO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These cars with this much mileage, have the engines or trans ever been rebuilt or needed to be open for any internal work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. I have had to get some stuff done to it since I bought it, but the only thing done as far as ripping open the engine or trans is taking the valve cover off, lol. I've had new cam tower o-rings installed, new spark plug tube seals, and the valve cover gasket of course. The trans is an automatic and original. Power steering pump used to leak but that was fixed. Thanks to that leak my alternator took a dump but i just had it replaced and was back on the road in less than 24 hours. I just recently had my EGR ports cleaned out. I've heard it's a common thing for those to clog at times with these cars. Regular maintenance always done, belts timing belt and water pump due in about 14,000 miles... uhmmm... some other stuff, and it still runs great.

Now the transmission does seem to be slipping just a little bit. Sometimes, not always, but sometimes when going into drive or reverse it may delay, it may not. Either way, it'll get into gear, and from there it works great. All the gears shift smooth still. The torque converter every now and then can't make up its mind on whether it wants to keep the lockup clutch engaged but since getting my trans fluid changed recently all these problems have lessened some.

I love this car.

FIDIRO

Thanks all for your replies. The relay may have been the culprid. I looked up for a fix and as it turned out my relay had two weld spots that were cracked and they were very unnoticeable, I had to look real close without blinking to notice those little cracks. Well I resoldered and installed and so far so good. I'll have to wait for a really hot day to go test it for sure, but it should be good to go. Again thanks for the helpful info.