NvBiker1

Your talking use the 90 harness not the 94
One ? I ordered the vtec harness from axidworks
& thanks again

holmesnmanny

You should have ordered the vtec wiring kit from axidworks. This isn't the same thing as a harness. This kit will include two wires that you will need to add to your existing ecu connectors and it will plug into the vtec pressure switch and vtec solenoid of the b1 engine.

NvBiker1

Thats what I ordered.
What I was asking is do I use the 90 engine harness
Or the 94 one ?

holmesnmanny

lol i told u dude use your existing harness u shouldn't have to do anything cept maybe your speed sensor wire might need to be extended...just take those two wires that you're getting and run em like you're supposed and u should be good to go...the only other hangup you could possibly have is the power steering pump...you might have to have your existing hose retrofitted to fit your power steering pump onto the b1 engine. You'll have to remove the main connector at each pump housing by taking off the two bolts and see if you can take your pressure hose and put it on the b1 pump. If it doesn't line up you will either need to see if your existing pump will fit onto the b1 power steering bracket or you will need to have a b1 pressure hose welded onto your existing pressure hose.

Oh and perhaps your idle control valve wire might need to be moved because the b1 I believe has it behind the throttle body and your existing is in front of the intake manifold. You can just get some 16 gauge wire and use a couple butt connectors to extend it to the b1 engine iacv.

Also, you will need a 94-97 driver side mount as well.

NvBiker1

Im customizing the 90 p/steering mount, 2 bolt
Holes match, ive cut the long leg off & will
Weld a tab on for the 3rd bolt. I have all the 94 mounts
They came with the engine

holmesnmanny

It might be best to have 'em just cut your existing hose and weld the b1 hose onto it, that way you can use the b1 pump. I know on mines I'm using my existing pump, I just had to shimmy my old pump bracket to work using about 9 washers to spacer it out. At some point I will grab a 5th gen prelude pump and just cut the hose around the back of the valve cover area and have someone just weld that onto my existing hose at a size that fits correctly.

What's happening in the meantime is that my old pump rubs on the hood. Sometimes if I'm stopped in the rain you can see the heat evaporating water around the area of the pump cause the hood is hot at that spot from the friction.

NvBiker1

I didnt get the 94 pump, just the brkt

NvBiker1

Thanks again for the tip on axidworks,
Ordered wiring on friday & received today
Wish everyone was that way on shipping &
The detail in the instructions is ausum.

holmesnmanny

It would be best to get the b1 pump from the junkyard

NvBiker1

Im trying my mod first, I know my pump is good
If it not right then ill got the other route

holmesnmanny

Im just thinking from a hood clearance issue. Did you already have a look and see if the pump is going to hit. If it doesnt', then it doesn't really matter which route you take.

NvBiker1

Will find out when I get to that point

NvBiker1

Installed the axidworks vtec wiring & f22b1
Ecu today & swapped out a6 & a11 wires,
axidworks Instructions are the bomb, in prep of
Doing the engine swap this weekend, can't wait to
Get it up & going it's been 4+ months sitting
While I got the parts together to do this .

holmesnmanny

Did you manage to depin them or did you just cut them outside the connectors ? I'm asking because I couldn't for the life of me get those sum bitches depinned. lol

NvBiker1

I just cut them, there's a set of holow screw drivers
Like tools that slide over the pins to release them,
Thats how they change them

GhostAccord

Not to thread jack but the ECU pins are actually quite easy once you get the hang of it. There is a trick and a simple tool that you can use.... not some overpriced Honda/Tyco tool ether. I used an old fashioned Xmas tree ornament hanger. Cut the hook off one end and sharpened it to a flathead type tip.



If you look in at the female side of the ECU connector you can see that on the top there is a small locking tab. This tab is what locks the pin into the connector. You have to get something small and flat enough to pry up on that locking tab. At the same time pull on the wire that you are unlocking. A vice comes in handy for the third hand...lol




A small jewelers flat tip will work on the larger pins as well.

Once I figured it out and made my tool I was able to convert my OBD2 ECU wire harness to OBD1 without splicing a single wire.




Finding a source for the OBD1 pins and heat shrinking every one (precautionary) was the hardest part.

/thread jack

tdohcaccord

nice work ghost

NvBiker1

Nice

NvBiker1

Broke my 2 1/2 foot breaker bar trying
To remove the right side axel nut.
Removing whole spindle & axel and
Will take down to freinds shop to
blow off with impact wrench, what a
a__pain, the left side came off like
warm butter ???

NvBiker1

Thats so strange it barely just bumped it with
The impact & came right off

holmesnmanny

The impact wrench normally shocks it so fast that it breaks it the corrosion. It's normally not that it's too tight, it's that corrosion has set in over time and has binded it. Make sure to put axle grease on the threads when you retorque it.

NvBiker1

Yea the nuts were fairly new still bright anodizing
On them, the left one came right off hardly any
Pressure used on breaker bar, who can say ?

GhostAccord

Did you remember to raise the locking tab (small ridge around the top of the nut) on the spindle nut? They should have had the locking tab staked into the depression in the spindle/axle. This is how the nuts are locked into place after being torqued to spec. Sometimes one could be staked a bit deeper than the other.

NvBiker1

Yes we did

NvBiker1

Holmesnmanny
Can I use the f22a1 intake on the f22b1 motor?
It will fix a lot of little problems, fuel line,
Vacum lines, extend wiring