K3NN3DY

hey guys,
new to the site and a do it yourself-er. i got a 2000 honda accord with the f23a engine and manual 5 speed in it car is mint and motor has 87,000 miles on it. recently i picked up a h22a4 (open deck) for 600 bucks with the sh transmission ( junk) used. that motor has about 140,000 miles on it. doesnt look like the best up keep either. fouled up dirty and a few metallic chunks were found in the v-tech solenoid. anyways either way im boosting this car, but having a hard time deciding. the f23 would be a cheaper build seeing i dont need to re-sleeve just throw in some forged internals. theres also lots of debate between SOHC and DOHC for blow-by issues and what not. and to match my f23 trans up to the h22a4 i have to make a plate for the drivers side axle to hang on and some minor wiring adjustments. could it be worth it to just build the f23 or go the extra mile to build the h22 and spend more. looking for reliable 300-350whp. yes injectors and fuel pump and clutch will be upgraded and eventually maybe lsd trans. any opinions on closing the deck on h22a4 vs leaving it open im up for listening to aswell.

Aradin

The F23 will likely be cheaper and easier to use in the long run. No need to sleeve it, no need to modify that SH block. You will need a few more psi of boost to get the 300-350 you're looking for because the head doesn't flow nearly as well but it will also make a fair bit more torque. You can make 300whp reliably on a stock, unopened F23 engine but 350 will be pushing the limits of it. Anything beyond 300 and it's definitely a good idea to invest in some rods/pistons/headstuds/etc.

K3NN3DY

yea i definitely dont plan on skimping out. before i boosted f23 id still do forged rods and pistons. i guess another option aswell would be a g23. have you heard anyone having good luck throwing the h22 head on the f23 bottom end? i like 300-350 its little enough to be reliable and not horrid for traction.

Aradin

I've never been a fan of the DOHC head on SOHC block but some people have made it work. Headgasket mismatch issues, bore/head mismatch issues, oil galleys potentially leaking, etc are some of the issues they face. It's not something I would do personally.

K3NN3DY

Aradin

Finding parts for the F23 is a lot easier now that it was just a few years ago. Kaizenspeed(KSTuned) will sell you off the shelf rods and make you custom pistons in whatever spec you want. I believe valve springs are interchangeable with some variant of the K20 but you will have to do your own research on that. Only thing really is getting a cam and there are a bunch of options out there to regrind your stock one if you need it(you don't for your goals).

K3NN3DY

awesome, really appreciate the advice guys. i'll stick with the f23, hopefully all goes good.

K3NN3DY

anyone have any feedback or thoughts on these wiseco pistons?
https://www.kstuned.com/products/wis...ged-piston-set

Aradin

Wiseco makes a good piston. Those are custom made but Kaizenspeed takes care of all the work for you. Just give them the info they ask for and tell them a little bit about your build goals and they'll take care of you. The entire bottom end of my stroker build is coming from them.

K3NN3DY

perfect thanks Aradin. you've been a big help. i was pricing out rods, bearings, and pistons from them guys. think i might just order most of the engine internals from them and put it on one bill.

Aradin

No problem. If you feel so inclined you could make a build thread in the forced induction section of this site to keep track of your progress. This site could always use more Accord content.

Honderachinaldo

The 2 things holding an F23 back are econo cam and low C/R, one of which wouldn't be an issue in your case.
F23 heads have really big ports and valves that look like a close 2cnd to h22 and those roller followers are sick, maybe score a Bisi cam. This would be my first option, just for the uniqueness vs DOHC.
The one thing that worries me about the F23 are the skinny rod bolts, and ARP doesn't seem to offer anything, rods would have to be somehow bored and tapped to accept. Those h beams in the 4-500$ range are the way to go I think. I don't know about the KS Tuned rods but the Molnars are only 35gr heavier than stock and with ACL bearings have factory clearance.
I don't see any real issues with the H head on F block, how hard can it be to plug 2 oil galleys? H22 sprockets on block, F23 86mm steel gasket, BOOM! I mean not like boom motor but boom completion

K3NN3DY

true. i just like the reliability of the f23 head as in if i tap the h22 and something goes wrong. I dont want to make a possible issue that otherwise wouldnt be there. theres also the dizzy wiring but not a major deal considering i have the wire harness of the h22a4 so i can properly cut and solder the connector. i was looking at KS tuned site but may shop around a little bit and pull parts from a few different places. As far as a build list goes. absolutely there will be a build list, aswell as pictures and most likely some short videos explaining what came together and how, eventually leading up to a dyno run with hopefully some decent hp. numbers. although i plan on building motor and running one summer N/A to break everything in nicely then hook up boost, s3000, a few other goodies and trailer it to the dyno for tuning. im thinking there would have to be a major gain both hp and reliability to throw the h22 head on.I just want a playtoy not a racecar. seen a couple guys online use the h22 crank in a few f23 builds too but seeing as im only looking for a reliable 350 WHP i should be able to get it without too much spendy bolt ons and too much hard work. i was also debating on getting an ebay turbo kit, plumbing everything in and possibly running that turbo for a summer then swap to something a little better. hopefully my dyno guy wont throw a fit, that will be the only "cheap ebay" part on the whole car.