shermjw

I have a 1993 Accord SE that runs great for 235K+ miles. Recently, I replaced the header pipe and reinstalled the existing Oxygen Sensor. When I started the car, the check engine light (CEL) stayed on. Ok, I figured maybe I disturbed the existing sensor, so I may need another pre-cat sensor for my OBD I equipped car. The big PITA comes next, when I am out enjoying the quiet ride and the car dies on the side of the road. Luckily, I got it started and made it back home. To spare the readers the drama, I have the following accomplished at the end of this disappointing weekend :

Purchased and installed a NEW Distributor from Advance Auto ( hopefully this wasn't my first mistake )
Purchased and installed a new external coil from Autozone ( I was trying to get the car running b4 Monday, so take pity on me )

The main relay that everyone discusses was replaced ~ 2 years ago and was removed/inspected again this weekend and appeared to look ok, without solder joints that were fractured, toasted, burned etc.

Initially, the car started after the new distributor was replaced; after letting it idle for about 20 min., it died and would not start : (
So, since I already "threw parts at the problem" , let's install a new ignition coil; car started, idled for about the same amount of time and shut down and would not start

We can hear the fuel pump running when this happens, so I am not suspect of the main relay. When the car sits (cools down) it fires up and purrs like kitten. Also, the CEL stays on and the
error codes of 15 (Ignition output) and 41 (O2 sensor) are present and persist after several power removal (negative terminal disconnected) attempts to clear it.

Did I make the classic mistake of not buying OEM parts? Is there anything else that may suffer from heat soak/failure that may make this issue look like an IGNITER and/or COIL?
When I read all of these threads I keep going over the same items : Igniter, Coil, Main Relay etc. It seems that my troubleshooting is gonna have to get better or do I suspect
aftermarket parts till I get ones that are trustworthy? What kills me is I love this old girl and with a bit of loving care, she will run till hell freezes over. Any suggestions would be welcome.


I

holmesnmanny

pull the code

use seafoam to check for an exhaust leak leaking out anywhere from the exhaust manifold to the gasket just past the pipe

post here the exact brand and part number of oxygen sensor

shermjw

Yesterday was a real heartbreaker. I had the OBD I diag plug jumped out and before I started to tinker, I managed to isolate the car from an old existing aftermarket alarm system (removed it) . I started the car and I noticed that my CEL code beacon was not calling out the 15 code anymore; the code 41 was still doing its callout (the forementioned O2 sensor). This initially lead me to believe that the old alarm system was the culprit (the code 15). I let the car idle for almost 50 minutes and was about to jump in the car for the victory spin when it died AGAIN ..... What a kick in the slats! So I am wondering if there is anything else that can overheat and die ? Would a flaky ECU do this? AAAARGHH! to quote Charlie Brown ; )

To answer your post, the codes that are persistent are 41 (Primary oxygen sensor heater) and when the car dies, code 15 (Ignition output signal) is instaneous : ( The O2 sensor is a pre-cat sensor and is rusted up pretty well; it could be VERY old, as my son never had to replace it during his tenure as primary driver. I have no problem getting another sensor, as it owes me nothing

I want to believe that the new dist/igniter/coil is fine and it is something else failing; this scenario brings back bad memories of a failed ignitor in our NEW 1996 Nissan Altima. I made the rookie mistake of buying a refurbed distributor/igniter and the POS left me down as soon as it heated up on the very first run! I ended up getting a unit from Nissan for $600 and life went on aok. If I sound a bit salty, I am. Thanks for letting me whine .....

Any ideas about the other items (ECU) ? I will run this car again and check voltage to the dizzy, igniter, coil when it dies again to see if the lack of spark is a lack of 12V. I have seen used ECUs online and if its the problem, it would have been a helluva lot cheaper to buy a $50 ECU than my parts spree. Enough of the violins and drama : ) Let me know what you think ......

holmesnmanny

based on the amount of problems and the code 15 even though you replaced the distributor I would get another ecu from a 92-93 accord of the same trim at the junkyard

shermjw

UPDATE : After a trip to Advance to return the new Distributor, I installed the 2nd NEW unit in the car and let it idle for over 1 hour, and then for roughly 25 minutes more and my son took it for a spin, with no issues; To Advance's credit, they did exchange the 1st new unit and it appears that this may have been the problem.During this past week, I did see voltage after each time it failed AND the ECU was taken out and inspected ( no burns or damage to PC board). So, with hindsight being 20-20, the moral of the story is Buy 2 to get 1 that works? It wouldn't be the first time and probably won't be the last. I still have my 41 code, but I will get a new upstream O2 sensor from Rock Auto. I need to see if it has a male or female connector, as Advance was asking about the engine type to determine this : F22A1 or F22A6. I have the F22A6, so that is good to know going forward. I will take out the corroded one an replace it. For $25, its a pretty safe bet. Besides, I am good at throwing parts at my problem ; )

I will update again if my luck runs out .... Thanks for listening.

shermjw

Yes Johnny there is a Santa Claus

Since my last post a new O2 sensor and the new Dizzy have provided reliable rides and no further issues. This little car can still teach the new ones a lesson on what reliable means.

Happy New Year !