ApatheticAccord

260k miles, 2 previous owners, great maintenance on car over the years considering it's just an old accord. Had it for about 15k miles. Ran wire from motor to battery - fan works. Ran wire from relay - made a toggle switch - fan works. Switched relays and fuses even though they were good, fan still doesn't work. Bought a new Coolant fan switch sensor and thermostat housing (which is where the sensor is located), still no fan. Replaced thermostat, fan still doesn't work. What other parts/sensors do I need to replace to make the fans work? This is the sensor I replaced.

Import Direct Ignition 17-1088 - Thermo Fan Switch | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I replaced this sensor located here - THIS IS SOMEONE ELSES CAR -


And this is the sensor I haven't replaced yet

ApatheticAccord

26 views, no replies?

tim73

You need to see if relay coil is pulling in or not. Theres 4 wires going to the relay. one is 12V hot all the time. Then theres two grounds, "I think". I say i think because i dont know if PCM completes the ground circuit or the hot circuit, in order to pull coil ininside the relay. Anyway, you need to figure out how the PCM controls the relay...then test for that, when the engine gets warm enough to require the fan. A good wiring diagram will help you.

I know on my 97, theres three engine coolant temp sensors. Two under teh distributor, and one on the thermostat housing. Two of them have two wires, and one has one wire. The single wire sensor is for the gauge, and one of the sensors is for the PCM, while the third is for the fan. Im pretty sure the one for the PCM is under the dizzy, and it is a transmitter(Gives a variable signal to the PCM to tell PCM what temp coolant is) then the one for the fan(I believe on the tstat housing is a switch. Its just open or closed. Closing at a certain temp I think its like ~215F, then opens up around ~195F. You need to make sure you replaced it with the correct sensor.

You may be able to jump out the switch, that controls the fan, with a paperclip. That should cause the relay coil to pull in...therefor starting the fan.

Just take your time...and dont overlook anything.

You can also test the switch...just attach your fluke...and put the end in boiling water. It should change state...then pull it out...it should revert back to original condition.

tim73

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...onnections.jpg

ApatheticAccord

The relay has two terminals that are silver or neutral in color, and two terminals that are redish in color. I imagine those a re power, and ground, respectively.

I replaced one cooling fan switch sensor, on the thermostat housing, upper radiator
There is another sensor, from the hose that goes directly from the radiator to a water outlet, where another sensor is.

I have a toggle switch ran from the relay to turn my fan on when I'm driving. Is the radiator fan supposed to kick in immediately starting the vehicle, cold or not? Every car I've ever owned has, besides this one.

Checked voltage from relay box, the female connectors/terminals inside where the relay fits into, shows 12 volts. I tested the sensor connector from the upper radiator house, and it shows 11.2 volts.

ApatheticAccord

Is this the sensor I need?





Located Here?

poorman212

Slow down and back up just a bit.

First, when the car is running/engine on/key to POS II - BOTH fans will only run when thermo A (lower hoser connects to engine, where the t-stat is) get to around ~195 F.

Next, with the key to on/POS II - remove the wire connector from the t-stat housing and use a paperclip or piece of wire to jump the wire side of the connector - do BOTH fans run? If not which one or both are not running?

When you replaced the parts you replaced already - did you properly bleed the sir out of the system.

holmesnmanny

It's likely the fan timer/control unit is bad.

Keep in mind the temperature has to rise enough to turn on the fan. It doesn't run until the car is totally warmed up.

Also whenever opening the system you either need to properly open the bleeder valve when adding coolant or popping it open after adding coolant to let the system burp itself clear of air or the air will not allow the hot coolant to touch the fan switch and turn on the fans.

ApatheticAccord

Condensor fan and the radiator fan do not turn on, even at operating temperature. I'm working on getting the sensor connector removed from the sensor, the clip seems to be stuck. I will get back to you on that.

When I replaced the parts I didn't bled anything, just dumped the fluid and filled back up with new. I just replaced the radiator today, and filled it up, without knowing about this.

Radiator fan works with a toggle switch ran from the relay

Will test condensor fan motor to make sure the motor itself isn't out. I was told the condensor fan only comes on when the A/C is turned on.

ApatheticAccord

Could you post a picture or link to the timer unit I may need?

Driving with the radiator fan off, the temp gauge stays at normal operating temp. Never overheats. is this okay?

holmesnmanny

You quoted the same picture you're asking for.

The fan doesnt just stay on all the time. It will turn on only when its needed.

ApatheticAccord

I drove for 2 hours on a road trip, never turned on.

And I was wondering if it was just a clip-on wire harness ,or a while piece I needed to replace.

sr20paisa

hope this video helps, it helped me

poorman212

Is the car over heating?

Where is the temp gauge pointing to just elow the half mark or right near it?

With everything hooked up, turn the blower motor off - start the car and just let it sit there and idle. Keep an eye on the temp gauge and at any point if it gets to 3/4 shut the car off.

It could take some time (20~30 minutes) for the fans to cycle.

ApatheticAccord

Never over heats, usually once the car warms up it sits at in between 1/4 and 1/2, its just below the half more if anything. Never gets to 3/4 or higher. I bought and installed a new radiator, but even so with a bad leaking radiator it STILL never overheated - and I replaced the gauge sensor just to be sure - the gauge works fine.

Fan still never kicks on.

ApatheticAccord

I replaced the sensor he replaced in the video, however there is another sensor, I'll have to look and see which one it is.

poorman212

Do the test I asked, please.......let the darn thing sit and idle (blower motor off) for 20~30 minutes.

ApatheticAccord

..I did. It never went above half, and the fan never kicked on.

poorman212

Then it sounds like you need to let it run longer or everything is fine.

You are stressing out and not being sure you actually have an issue. The car is not overheating, getting hot, why would the fans need to come on?

ApatheticAccord

This Honda is the only car I've had where the radiator fan not running constant was normal. Every other vehicle I have drove, the fan started when the car did. I left the car on for 30+minutes, no overheating issues.

poorman212

Please provide the details of "Every other vehicle I have drove" so I can look up the cooling fan operation of those.

Help me understand why Honda/Acura is the only manufacture that would NOT run a wear item (cooling fan motor) all of the time?

ApatheticAccord

Are you trolling? I came here for help not for some basement dweller to be critical of everything I say.

My 1994 ford explorer fan ran CONSTANTLY, from start up to shut off. 1999 Silverado, ran all the time. 1999 Dodge Dakota, ran all the time, as well as 1999 Dodge Ram, had a 1996 Chrysler concord that ALWAYS ran, a 1992 Jeep grand Cherokee that always ran.

THIS IS the only car I've owned which DIDN'T always run.

Did I one time say Honda is the ONLY manufacturer that doesn't have their fan run constant? No I didn't.

holmesnmanny

Fans don't run all the time on any car. Period. End of Story.

I only pray nobody else at this website helps you.

ApatheticAccord

Yeah, that;s why the fan is my ford explorer is running right now, immediately after starting it up. ******* children.

ApatheticAccord

"With a fan clutch your fan will rotate constantly regardless. The clutch engages and locks the blade to it so that it spins faster than normal the hotter that it gets. The only time that your fan will not spin is when the motor is off."

^ Thats on a 95 Chevy

From this post - http://www.plowsite.com/archive/index.php/t-56382.html


Moderator edit: profanity and flaming deleted.