1990 accord computer codes
10-14-2010, 10:15 AM
#1
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1990 accord computer codes
when checking the code one my 1990 accord engine check light stays on untile i remove the paper clip is does not blink. So is that a 0 or a 1. there is also a little circular window on the ecu with a red and blue bulb in side what are they.
10-14-2010, 11:01 AM
#2
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
A solid CEL with the SCS connector shorted (paper clip inserted) means that there are no codes stored on the ECU. If your CEL is coming on, try shorting the SCS connector without shutting off the engine. Sometimes there may be a soft code (intermittent problem) or if your CEL is flashing while you are driving that means that there is a misfire detected.
10-14-2010, 11:09 AM
#3
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
Little window in the ECU?
Does your Accord have an OBD0 ECU?
Where are you from? I don't know of any stock OBD1 ECUs with the CEL window, OBD0 yes.
Does your Accord have an OBD0 ECU?
Where are you from? I don't know of any stock OBD1 ECUs with the CEL window, OBD0 yes.
10-14-2010, 12:52 PM
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
10-15-2010, 04:28 PM
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
Im guessing its obd1 since the vehicle was built before 96 but im not sure just trying to figure out why its not starting im guesing its the crank position sensor.
10-15-2010, 04:30 PM
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10-15-2010, 04:51 PM
#7
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
What problem are you having? Is the car not starting?
To diagnose a no-start: First, turn the key to position II ("on"). Does the Check Engine light come on for about two seconds and then go out, or does it stay on continuously? If it stays on continuously, then the ECU is not receiving power - this is usually due to a main relay or a grounding problem.
If the Check Engine light does go out after two seconds, turn the key to position III ("start"). Does the starter crank the engine? If not, you may have an insufficiently charged battery, a bad starter, or a bad ignition switch.
If the starter does crank the engine but the engine will not run, you should check for sparks at the plugs. Remove a spark plug from the cylinder head, then reinsert it into the end of the spark plug wire. Hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (a valve cover nut will work) and look for fat blue sparks while someone else cranks the engine. Don't get zapped; it will hurt. If the spark is weak and yellow/orange, check for worn ignition components (distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires). If the spark is non-existant, you may have a bad ignition coil or ignitor (a.k.a. ignition control module). '90-91 Accords (and most other internal-coil Hondas) are notorious for coil failures. Note: If the spark plug tubes are full of oil when you try to remove them, then you need to replace the O-ring seals under the valve cover and possibly under the rocker shaft assembly as well.
If the spark is good, next you must check for fuel. Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after the key is turned to position II? If not, do not automatically assume the fuel pump is bad, as fuel pumps rarely fail on fuel injected Hondas. Instead, check for power first at the fuel pump connector. If there is no power, you may have a bad main relay.
That should keep you busy for a while.
To diagnose a no-start: First, turn the key to position II ("on"). Does the Check Engine light come on for about two seconds and then go out, or does it stay on continuously? If it stays on continuously, then the ECU is not receiving power - this is usually due to a main relay or a grounding problem.
If the Check Engine light does go out after two seconds, turn the key to position III ("start"). Does the starter crank the engine? If not, you may have an insufficiently charged battery, a bad starter, or a bad ignition switch.
If the starter does crank the engine but the engine will not run, you should check for sparks at the plugs. Remove a spark plug from the cylinder head, then reinsert it into the end of the spark plug wire. Hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (a valve cover nut will work) and look for fat blue sparks while someone else cranks the engine. Don't get zapped; it will hurt. If the spark is weak and yellow/orange, check for worn ignition components (distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires). If the spark is non-existant, you may have a bad ignition coil or ignitor (a.k.a. ignition control module). '90-91 Accords (and most other internal-coil Hondas) are notorious for coil failures. Note: If the spark plug tubes are full of oil when you try to remove them, then you need to replace the O-ring seals under the valve cover and possibly under the rocker shaft assembly as well.
If the spark is good, next you must check for fuel. Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after the key is turned to position II? If not, do not automatically assume the fuel pump is bad, as fuel pumps rarely fail on fuel injected Hondas. Instead, check for power first at the fuel pump connector. If there is no power, you may have a bad main relay.
That should keep you busy for a while.
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10-15-2010, 05:14 PM
#8
Re: 1990 accord computer codes
But, if you want to read the trouble code via the Check Engine Light blinking, then you jump the SCS connector.
10-15-2010, 05:33 PM
#9
be professional
Re: 1990 accord computer codes
The 1990 Accord ECU's circular window is to read if there are any trouble codes. You just turn the ignition key to "ON" to read if there are any codes. I don't believe you have to connect the SCS connector on the 1990 Accord to get the trouble codes if you are just looking at the ECU circular window.
But, if you want to read the trouble code via the Check Engine Light blinking, then you jump the SCS connector.
But, if you want to read the trouble code via the Check Engine Light blinking, then you jump the SCS connector.
10-15-2010, 09:16 PM
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
What problem are you having? Is the car not starting?
To diagnose a no-start: First, turn the key to position II ("on"). Does the Check Engine light come on for about two seconds and then go out, or does it stay on continuously? If it stays on continuously, then the ECU is not receiving power - this is usually due to a main relay or a grounding problem.
If the Check Engine light does go out after two seconds, turn the key to position III ("start"). Does the starter crank the engine? If not, you may have an insufficiently charged battery, a bad starter, or a bad ignition switch.
If the starter does crank the engine but the engine will not run, you should check for sparks at the plugs. Remove a spark plug from the cylinder head, then reinsert it into the end of the spark plug wire. Hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (a valve cover nut will work) and look for fat blue sparks while someone else cranks the engine. Don't get zapped; it will hurt. If the spark is weak and yellow/orange, check for worn ignition components (distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires). If the spark is non-existant, you may have a bad ignition coil or ignitor (a.k.a. ignition control module). '90-91 Accords (and most other internal-coil Hondas) are notorious for coil failures. Note: If the spark plug tubes are full of oil when you try to remove them, then you need to replace the O-ring seals under the valve cover and possibly under the rocker shaft assembly as well.
If the spark is good, next you must check for fuel. Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after the key is turned to position II? If not, do not automatically assume the fuel pump is bad, as fuel pumps rarely fail on fuel injected Hondas. Instead, check for power first at the fuel pump connector. If there is no power, you may have a bad main relay.
That should keep you busy for a while.
To diagnose a no-start: First, turn the key to position II ("on"). Does the Check Engine light come on for about two seconds and then go out, or does it stay on continuously? If it stays on continuously, then the ECU is not receiving power - this is usually due to a main relay or a grounding problem.
If the Check Engine light does go out after two seconds, turn the key to position III ("start"). Does the starter crank the engine? If not, you may have an insufficiently charged battery, a bad starter, or a bad ignition switch.
If the starter does crank the engine but the engine will not run, you should check for sparks at the plugs. Remove a spark plug from the cylinder head, then reinsert it into the end of the spark plug wire. Hold the ground electrode against a bit of bare metal in the engine bay (a valve cover nut will work) and look for fat blue sparks while someone else cranks the engine. Don't get zapped; it will hurt. If the spark is weak and yellow/orange, check for worn ignition components (distributor cap and rotor, plugs, wires). If the spark is non-existant, you may have a bad ignition coil or ignitor (a.k.a. ignition control module). '90-91 Accords (and most other internal-coil Hondas) are notorious for coil failures. Note: If the spark plug tubes are full of oil when you try to remove them, then you need to replace the O-ring seals under the valve cover and possibly under the rocker shaft assembly as well.
If the spark is good, next you must check for fuel. Can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after the key is turned to position II? If not, do not automatically assume the fuel pump is bad, as fuel pumps rarely fail on fuel injected Hondas. Instead, check for power first at the fuel pump connector. If there is no power, you may have a bad main relay.
That should keep you busy for a while.
10-16-2010, 12:47 PM
#11
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Re: 1990 accord computer codes
for some strang reason the car was able to start up. I took off the distributor cap and cranked the car a few times to make sure the timming belt was not broke. Then I trip the jumper wire for the ecu and trided starting the car with them connected, but nothing occured. Then i turned the car to the on position and the red led light in ecu had one long blink followed by 6 blinks. Which is a code 16 for a 1990 accord. The book said fuel delivery issuse. So i disconeted and reconnected the silver fuel box under the hood that deals with the fuel injection and reconnected it. The car started up but kept blinking the same sequence. The fuel pump still primes well. So i reset the ecu by disconecting the battery and the ecu fuse under the hood for about a minut and reconneted it. Then the car started without any codes, blinks or hesitation. I touched each fuel injected with a screw driver and put my ear to it so i could hear them tapping. In not sure if the timming was off or if the car was running lean becuase i ported out the throttle body but im going to change the fuel filter in order to help increase the fuel flow and since the thing looks like it has never been changed.
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