3D printers are the wave of the future

I was using a DA dual core radiator with 2 Zirgo fans

 

stock single core rad with 2 fans on puerto rico hot *** weather, no problems yet

 

man I need to start loosing weight.....

is it dx hb?

 

might be looks it.

but that is also sedan?

I cant remember I know they quote us 50k and my boss about choked.

 

its an SI with the sunroof still in.

I use a mishi dualcore with one fan and vented hood.

 

Ofcourse

 

What are you guys running for front end bushings? I have been looking at purchasing the Hardrace FLCA on amazon which are cheaper than jhpusa and sold by jhp through amazon.



Also thinking of just getting some replacement stuff like moog's for the sway bar, lower ball joints and outer tie rods. The ball joints come as one so two would be ordered and the tie rod shown is only the left side as example.




Which wheel bearings are you using as well?

Any reccomendations against what is listed?

 

 

and? spill it!

 

i haven't even check my front lca bushings lol
but i propbably will have them changed out this fall.

as for wheel bearings I use timke

 

i want another car Sweet C63 AMG at the dealership...but can't work on a Mercedes myself. Need to find an unmolested 2003 M5

 

I was road racing at BIR this weekend... man some of those M1 are quick...!

2 weeks ago went to RM and road in M3... so jelly how it handles in the corners compared to my car.



this weekend is gingerman & IA...

 

Starting to see a lot more M's at the track now

 

Prices are dropping on used ones, so price to play has come down, but parts are still very 'M'...

Not fun when something breaks

 

Right now the car is on stands anyways so I want to freshen as much as possible.

I have heard Timken's are good for most vehicles. Ill check those out. Apparently honda uses ntn's now but those cost alot even from the online dealers.

Edit: What camber kits are you guys using? I have seen the skunk2, ebays, apparently hardrace use to or still makes a front, truhart makes one with hardrace ball joint. Just wish PCI would bring out the EF version's i would gladly use that.

 

Everything went well

 

bigger tease than my coworker

 

In for more on Coops request. I dont know, have to refresh mine eventually and would like info on the camber kits as well.

Arent there only a few kits that are approved for Autox/etc? I've been using the redshift civic setup info for a reference and he mentions which kit is legal for front and a different one is legal in the rear.

SP33, leavin us hanging???

And just a side note, I wouldnt mind a second car once I have a garage for civic again. Was looking at Acura RDX's and RL's. Anyone have any info on them?

 

i'm thinking i need a camber kit. -4° in the front. back is perfect

 

not a fan of the RL... in that price range you can get a lot more of a car.
RDX are nice! My uncle use to have the 1st gen RDX but traded it in for a TSX which he later traded for the TL, just sold the TL & he's back to the RDX. lol



Big thanks to Jeff @ Progress for sending me some new stiffer springs to try out. Tomorrow I'll have to take in into MAP to double check the alignment before heading out to IA & WMHM.

 

Hopefully I can meet a few of you guys this weekend. I think this year will be better then last.

 

I recommend Skunk2 up front. I love mine. though you may want to swap the bolts for some with a more desirable head.


A question on catch can theory...

Assuming two ports off the valve cover, one from the block and a vented catch can....

In forced induction applications would it be better to mount the catch can with the ports higher than the ports coming from the valve cover or below? Same question for an NA application. Is there any good articles on this anywhere? I'm not having much google luck.

thanks!

 

for anyone that needs it - here is the info from Redshift - he points out an issue with the SK2 camber adj arms -

You don't really have to run any camber adjustment on the car because you get a good camber setting just from lowering the car. If you need to be more precise though (like racing), you should get adjustable alignment parts to make that happen. With the standard 1.5-2" drop, you will already have something like 3 degrees negative on the front and 2 at the back. 2.5 is ok in front too if you aren't as low, but I prefer the more aggressive camber in front to really help the car dig in at corner entry (and I don't like to lower the front as much as some do).
There are 2 front camber kit designs. First is the inner slotted bolts on the front upper control arm. The 2nd is the adjustable upper ball joint. I prefer the inner pivot for a single important reason.... it was brought to my attention by Allen Kugler (CSP/FSP/EP Civics/CRXs) that the aftermarket adjustable ball joints don't have the range of motion that should have and that they cause the ball joint to bind when the front suspension compresses all the way. And he is right. Even the new Skunk2 upper front arm with integral adjustable ball joint has this problem. Definitely use the inner slotted bolts (we like the Ingalls parts) and not an aftermarket ball joint. If you need to change the ball joint, you need to get a new front arm and it's around $140 for that! bugger! And the Ingalls front upper inner slotted bolts are $65 each, $130 for the pair on our site.

The rear camber adjustment is also an important tuning tool. These are threaded upper control arms with rubber or polyurethane bushings (or brass... but that's not legal is most classes) from Ingalls. If you don't run enough rear camber, your car will overheat the outer edge of the tires, which changes the balance of the car significantly during a run and certainly from run to run or with a co-driver. The difference in running enough camber in back can be the difference between being mid-pack and up front for sure. And btw, the Ingalls rear alignment adjustment arms for the Honda/Acura cars are $126 per pair on our site.

I cant seem to find where he discussed which kits were legal or not for certain competitions.

 

you going to the wmhm?

 

i would mount the can lower than the the fittings on the valve cover.
but either is fine.
just make sure your return line is higher than that of the block fitting. lol