<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAallTheWAY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For some reason, I get the feeling that is total bull.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hope thats extreme sarcasm.

edit: OMFGJDMBBQWTF! if you guys can somehow get his number i will call him and record the conversation just for the EF thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i have a 1997 driver's edition jazz blue gti vr6. one of 2000. thats my "other" car</TD></TR></TABLE>

de's are sweet. i used to have a tornado pink 95 vr6 gti. i miss it but i really don't miss the bosch bullshit. sold it to buy something more practical. kids and hatchbacks don't really mix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">de's are sweet. i used to have a tornado pink 95 vr6 gti. i miss it but i really don't miss the bosch bullshit. sold it to buy something more practical. kids and hatchbacks don't really mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh i hear ya. the VR6 itself is bullet proff but everythign bolted to it has a very very very short lifespan. god damn coilpacks.

&lt;waits for token nihkon "ef wa wa" post.

but no really, im wire tucking my crx fri night/ sat morn and ill post up when im thru. doing the inside of the car too.

 

I want some opinions. Im going to the salvage yard this weekend. Would you guys recommend staying with my rear susp that came on my std and fabbing up so a sway bar will fit. Or i heard i can go with DA pieces. Is this true? Any advantages other then rear discs? Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh i hear ya. the VR6 itself is bullet proff but everythign bolted to it has a very very very short lifespan. god damn coilpacks.

&lt;waits for token nihkon "ef wa wa" post.

but no really, im wire tucking my crx fri night/ sat morn and ill post up when im thru. doing the inside of the car too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are doing a major wire tuck i think it's going to take longer then that...what exactly are you going to do to the inside of the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16_madman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I could never get my dern black trim pieces around the cutouts to fit well either. I had the original ones as well. Try finding new ones of those

</TD></TR></TABLE>


I used black silicone to hold them in place. Also, I couldnt find a part number for the rubber garnish/seal in the JDM Honda parts book. A guy i know bought some brand new USDM clear square halogens/fogs complete with brackets, harness, garnish etc from the dealer. Everything had a part number except the garnish. Its very strange. The same guy that bought the USDM ones used to live in Japan and is going to contact one of his friends there to get him to actually walk into the dealer and ask about them . I'll update here as i get info.

Here's a shot of mine from a while back. I really hate this pic b/c of the hood misalignment but it shows the halogen/fog fitment. I can rest easy though cuz i fixed the hood loooong ago LOL.




Modified by fourthgenhatchB17 at 12:10 AM 10/27/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoSt is BlaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if you are doing a major wire tuck i think it's going to take longer then that...what exactly are you going to do to the inside of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

True that! Took me about a week on my CRX.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoSt is BlaCk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are doing a major wire tuck i think it's going to take longer then that...what exactly are you going to do to the inside of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

just the blinker harnesses to the rear, the cable to the latch, the rear mounted battery cable too. just going to take the loom off, shrink wrap it in black and put it between the quarterpanel and the "chassis" back there and secure it firmly so i dont have that classis rat a tat tat going on back there.

under the hood....8 hours tops. harness inside t he car, brake booster upside down fuse box, battery and resistor box are all gone. keeping the heater. obd 1 throttle body already. headlight harness are going in the fenders as expected. ill post pictures. i have chases phone number if i wasto get stuck but.... im an electrician and well im already 30% of the way done so... yea itll be a 12-pack job tops.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magoo_lc1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want some opinions. Im going to the salvage yard this weekend. Would you guys recommend staying with my rear susp that came on my std and fabbing up so a sway bar will fit. Or i heard i can go with DA pieces. Is this true? Any advantages other then rear discs? Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the da rear lca's have a slightly wider track and also have the eyelet for a stock swaybar to mount to. if you get teh front knuckles and calipers you have the same thing as 91 ex brakes but far easier to find. just remember that aligning it afterwards is very important and all of the da stuff is a touch longer/wider so if you use it on one side of the car you HAVE to on the other.

 

another alternative maybe take some lenght of vacuum tubing and a razor blade, slit the tube down the lenght, then use it to cover the edge of the cut out, give it a decent look, for cheep

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the da rear lca's have a slightly wider track and also have the eyelet for a stock swaybar to mount to. if you get teh front knuckles and calipers you have the same thing as 91 ex brakes but far easier to find. just remember that aligning it afterwards is very important and all of the da stuff is a touch longer/wider so if you use it on one side of the car you HAVE to on the other.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aren't the da knuckles taller than the ex, and give you a camber affect? (fixes dropped cars back to stock camber?)

 

very true. they are approx 3/8 in taller which does act as a free camber kit for a car dropped approx 2 inches.

 

You are on another level of clean Eric .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very true. they are approx 3/8 in taller which does act as a free camber kit for a car dropped approx 2 inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and they are a dime a dozen, so hey why not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hope thats extreme sarcasm.

edit: OMFGJDMBBQWTF! if you guys can somehow get his number i will call him and record the conversation just for the EF thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I emailed him for his number so I could discuss motor numbers with him

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DEIVIONCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another alternative maybe take some lenght of vacuum tubing and a razor blade, slit the tube down the lenght, then use it to cover the edge of the cut out, give it a decent look, for cheep</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was actaully thinking about doing the same thing but haven't gotten around to it...everytime i find the fogs they never come with the surrounding rubber

rubber saves lives by the way