bahahahaha i am not going lolz its 1,923 miles from where i live

 

i flew there last year

 

Imma ride my ruckus to there from Cali.

 

IA = best time of my life

 

rollin e at dayglo = best time of my life


siiiike

 

13 hour drive from where I am to IA, not sure if I'm going to go.

 

Got my studs and tires today, anyone know if it's possible to put studs in yourself, ice heard rumors of people hammering them in theirselfes

 

It's for an EK, but it might help.

http://www.jdmrides.ca/forum/diy-rep...ek-t59890.html

 

If you have a press handy do it yourself, if not i wouldnt recommend it

 

What younthink the price would be to have it done?

 

No idea, I did the studs on the Ls myself its not hard but a press is necessary

 

I'm just strapped for cash is all

 

Yeah I hear you. Any friends have a press?

 

can we carpool lol

or a BFH , i did the ones on my del sol and used a BFH and a piece of wood...wouldn't really recommend it unless its like worst case scenario

 

cant do it yourself. i had about 4 or 5 broken studs in a matter of a month last year

cost me almost a 100 every time i did it... 60 for labor and they break the wheel bearing to fix it so you have to buy a new one which is 30 or 40 bucks... good luck

 

I did my rear extended studs myself. I didn't use a press either its been ~4000 miles and they held up fine none of them have broken or loosened up.

Here is my ghetto process. I had the whole trailing arm off the car though.
1. put the stud on
2. place a socket over and thru the stud
3. place 2 metal washers
4. use a lug nut to tighten/press the stud until its nice and tight with no gap
5. check and repeat the process to the rest of the stud

 

how does this shell sound guys? how much would be a fair price? pls help

 

i did my fronts. and got the studs pressed at a buddys shop foo frree! still riding pretty good. I followed a article on team-integra.net how removing the wheel bearing and replacing stud.

 

 

nicceee

 

Very nice adam, I need to get some good pixs of my car.

 

The usdm front won't mount to it if it still has the jdm core. The hood release cable bracket will by in the very front, instead of behind the radiator support. Also, the fenders won't line up. You're gonna need the usdm radiator support in order to keep your 98+ usdm front.

I don't know, but $700 sounds like a good price to me for a clean shell. Depends on how much is missing. If all you have to do is drop the motor and tranny in it and its ready to drive, then it sounds like a good deal.

 

^^^^^ needa slamm it more

 

Sup guys any of you guys got any good websites , where I can get the parts to do a brake line tuck, and everything else.. Didn't care much for it but now it's growing on me..

 

are there any trustable sites i can order either a replica or OEM ITR Lip from? I am in need of one. Thanks guys in advance!