EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heart charles.

cash in hand wey, let me know when u can rock the evo</TD></TR></TABLE>

My one and only fan...lol.

Umm, call me saturday and I'll let you know for sure. I really do need to take care of that car.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My one and only phan...lol.

Umm, call me saturday and I'll let you know for sure. I really do need to take care of that car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

fixed lol, give me a call

ef0cmacro

my db8 work in progress. checks in.

one bad dx

Hey Charles,

Do you happen to know of a good write up of the energy suspension master suspension kit install?

Or does anybody know if the kit comes with a manual or guide to each bushing?

The squeaking is beginning to drive me slightly insane lol.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

There is no real manual. Energy Suspension assumes that the people replacing these bushings are "trained" installers, so there is no need for them to supply instructions. Kind of like when you buy brake pads, master/slave cylinders, or any general part for a car, there really aren't any instructions because they are replacement parts. So to them, if you know enough to take them off, you should know how to put it on. Its a real ignorant way of thinking, considering that polyurethane bushings aren't exactly the same as the OEM bushing in construction. Maybe in function, yeah they are replacement parts. But composition/materials of the part can make a difference in how that part performs.

If you have a whole lot of squeaking, then there isn't enough lube on the specified bushings, or they are incorrectly set. Dont forget you need to load the suspension when servicing any bushing that requires a bolt to go through it. And water can wash off the lube, so the only solution is buying more of it. A dry urethane bushing will hold up, but will squeak like no tomorrow.

If all else fails, buy a spoon exhaust or beef up your sound system.
(Options, that was not a cheap shot at your exhaust set up...I admit the exhaust sounds fuc*in awesome, but its not exactly the quietest one out there... )

one bad dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no real manual. Energy Suspension assumes that the people replacing these bushings are "trained" installers, so there is no need for them to supply instructions. Kind of like when you buy brake pads, master/slave cylinders, or any general part for a car, there really aren't any instructions because they are replacement parts. So to them, if you know enough to take them off, you should know how to put it on. Its a real ignorant way of thinking, considering that polyurethane bushings aren't exactly the same as the OEM bushing in construction. Maybe in function, yeah they are replacement parts. But composition/materials of the part can make a difference in how that part performs.

If you have a whole lot of squeaking, then there isn't enough lube on the specified bushings, or they are incorrectly set. Dont forget you need to load the suspension when servicing any bushing that requires a bolt to go through it. And water can wash off the lube, so the only solution is buying more of it. A dry urethane bushing will hold up, but will squeak like no tomorrow.

If all else fails, buy a spoon exhaust or beef up your sound system.
(Options, that was not a cheap shot at your exhaust set up...I admit the exhaust sounds fuc*in awesome, but its not exactly the quietest one out there... )</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got ya, well I know the upper ball joints are basically shot and the rears are probably as well. I'm just trying to do as much of the little things as possible because I know I wont have alot of time when the lil monster is born next month lol.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Got ya, well I know the upper ball joints are basically shot and the rears are probably as well. I'm just trying to do as much of the little things as possible because I know I wont have alot of time when the lil monster is born next month lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Congrats on the bundle of joy on its way. Honestly, just follow the helms on replacing the bushings. Replace each one as if they were factory honda bushings, just lube each bushing up nicely. If you dont have a helms, I can scan the whole suspension section for you and send it to you via email. LMK.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

fixed lol, give me a call</TD></TR></TABLE>

HHAhahAHhahaHAHAHhaha..... Ngoc Ngoc....

one bad dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Congrats on the bundle of joy on its way. Honestly, just follow the helms on replacing the bushings. Replace each one as if they were factory honda bushings, just lube each bushing up nicely. If you dont have a helms, I can scan the whole suspension section for you and send it to you via email. LMK. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well thank you .

I do have the helms manual so I'm gonna go through that first and read up on it.

Now would it be good to rent the ball joint tool to assist with the front uppers?

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

You can rent a ball joint tool, better safe than sorry. The way I usually do it is getting a hammer and striking the flat edge of the knuckle. Its up towards the top, near the point where the UCA ball joint connects to the knuckle. Smack both sides and it should pop right off. This is of course with the ball joint castle nut removed.

Or, remove the castle nut, replace it on the ball joint backwards (castle tips first, as opposed to the flat edge of the nut threading first). Then with a dead blow hammer, smack it upwards.

The pickle fork or ball joint seperator is also an option, just that people complain about it ripping up ball joint boots, but if you're replacing it there should be no concerns using one.

Just my .02, there are still bushings I would replace only with oem or similar bushings. Those would be:
-UCA Ball Joint Boots - Polyurethane dont allow much grease for the ball joint
-LCA Shock bushings - Urethane last longer, but rougher on bumpy roads
-Trailing Arm bushings - Urethane tends to bind at this area, Not as comfy.

I suppose the rest are ok, but its just the harsh california roads take their toll on a car and the driver's back...LOL. But I honestly suggest the bushings I mentioned be considered when choosing between Poly or Oem.

one bad dx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can rent a ball joint tool, better safe than sorry. The way I usually do it is getting a hammer and striking the flat edge of the knuckle. Its up towards the top, near the point where the UCA ball joint connects to the knuckle. Smack both sides and it should pop right off. This is of course with the ball joint castle nut removed.

Or, remove the castle nut, replace it on the ball joint backwards (castle tips first, as opposed to the flat edge of the nut threading first). Then with a dead blow hammer, smack it upwards.

The pickle fork or ball joint seperator is also an option, just that people complain about it ripping up ball joint boots, but if you're replacing it there should be no concerns using one.

Just my .02, there are still bushings I would replace only with oem or similar bushings. Those would be:
-UCA Ball Joint Boots - Polyurethane dont allow much grease for the ball joint
-LCA Shock bushings - Urethane last longer, but rougher on bumpy roads
-Trailing Arm bushings - Urethane tends to bind at this area, Not as comfy.

I suppose the rest are ok, but its just the harsh california roads take their toll on a car and the driver's back...LOL. But I honestly suggest the bushings I mentioned be considered when choosing between Poly or Oem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your write up, it's much appreciated. Also, your california roads are no match to my upstate adirondack mountain rounds bro lol. That's why I'm considering removing the Teins and Tokicos and going with some OEM ITR's I think those would ride better as of right now. Due to the lesser offset of the SI rims I'm now topping my tire out on the upper control arm castle nut. IDK, anybody got pics

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I appreciate your write up, it's much appreciated. Also, your california roads are no match to my upstate adirondack mountain rounds bro lol. That's why I'm considering removing the Teins and Tokicos and going with some OEM ITR's I think those would ride better as of right now. Due to the lesser offset of the SI rims I'm now topping my tire out on the upper control arm castle nut. IDK, anybody got pics</TD></TR></TABLE>

What size tire are you running? Because you're not technically supposed to be able to top out your tire on the UCA castle nut. The tire should move with the hub, which should move sequentially with the upper control arm and lower control arm. In essence, the wheel and tire should at all times be spaced from the UCA and never allowed to come into contact with the tire unless some suspension bushing or piece is worn, bent, or broken.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Maybe this will give you a better idea of what i'm saying... I dont know if I made any sense.

one bad dx

I understand what your saying, I just assumed it was hitting the control arm because I got a pretty deep gouge in the inside of the tire. But it may have been there prior and I just didnt do an adequate enough inspection prior to installing them.

The wheels 99-00 civic SI rims and the tires are a Dunlop Sport 901 195/55/15. Could it possibly be a matter of offset that puts the tire too far into the wheel well?

Spec R

The FM901's have a pretty scare tire profile too. btw, they get the vote for noisiest tire evar from myself and many others.

Red4drLSintegra

Hey i want IN!

i have a 4dr 98 integra LS Cayenne red pearl. Shes pretty and has VERY low miles(only 70K) well taken care of ..im the 3rd owner. Shes got a AEM CAI and Flowmaster exhaust and Rims. Thats about all right now..im a broke college kid anfd a single momma.

Pics:

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one bad dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I understand what your saying, I just assumed it was hitting the control arm because I got a pretty deep gouge in the inside of the tire. But it may have been there prior and I just didnt do an adequate enough inspection prior to installing them.

The wheels 99-00 civic SI rims and the tires are a Dunlop Sport 901 195/55/15. Could it possibly be a matter of offset that puts the tire too far into the wheel well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think its a matter of offset at all. The civic and integra wheels are pretty much the same offset if i'm not mistaken. Its just the flat face of the SI wheel that gives it the appearance of being further in. I'd have to look into that.

Tire profile is fine, no probs there.

If something is cutting into it, I think it would be the metal reigion where the fenderwell and frame meet. If you stick your hands up there, you'll feel metal that resembles the dull side of a knife. that is what usually cuts tires in the center.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

I'll get you in as soon as I sort out who else posted a request.

Spec R

i know a solution, raise your car

i heart you all

SickAssLy

heres my daily DB8
that sucks that it didnt make to eibach this year..


oh btw that wing is gone now!

jdmdb8r

iTrader: (5)

RedZone

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SickAssLy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres my daily DB8
that sucks that it didnt make to eibach this year..

oh btw that wing is gone now! </TD></TR></TABLE>

sick I bet it flows better without the wing....

your wheels look really good with the color of the car

nathanong87

is that milano red?

Options

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SickAssLy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres my daily DB8


oh btw that wing is gone now! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, dood. That looks pretty good. I'm loving the red. I agree with Redzone.....lose that wing and it will flow better from front to back.

Red4drLSintegra

read below his photo..it says the wing is gone

I love the JDm front end on the 4dr..wow!