Liquidgsr

Im wondering what I should do next. My car needs a paint job and some body work and I can't afford to do that now. I want to make a little more power and I am wondering if I should look into upgrading the valve train. Anyone know of some good cams to look at. I want something that I wont have to take out if and when I go turbo.

BTW im running I/H/E right now.

nathanong87

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im wondering what I should do next. My car needs a paint job and some body work and I can't afford to do that now. I want to make a little more power and I am wondering if I should look into upgrading the valve train. Anyone know of some good cams to look at. I want something that I wont have to take out if and when I go turbo.

BTW im running I/H/E right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

tune?

Liquidgsr

I was thinking of doing that a while back also. I had bought a Hondata S200 with P28 but sold it after running into money issues and not finishing my turbo setup. Then I started to look for turbo parts again, but again I sold the parts I bought. Finally bought a VAFC, and that I never used either and sold. Funny thing is now the guy who bought it from me after 3 months is telling me its not working and he just put it in his car. Not to mention I bought it from his buddy, and his buddy tells him it worked fine when he had it in his car...pshhhh. I don't get how people can ask for a refund after 3 months....sorry just ranting.


I guess I should try putting on my Hondata Intake manifold gasket. I wonder how hard it is to port a GSR manifold. I was thinking about buying one for for like 20-40 bucks and using my dremel and seeing if I could try and port it...just for fun.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking of doing that a while back also. I had bought a Hondata S200 with P28 but sold it after running into money issues and not finishing my turbo setup. Then I started to look for turbo parts again, but again I sold the parts I bought. Finally bought a VAFC, and that I never used either and sold. Funny thing is now the guy who bought it from me after 3 months is telling me its not working and he just put it in his car. Not to mention I bought it from his buddy, and his buddy tells him it worked fine when he had it in his car...pshhhh. I don't get how people can ask for a refund after 3 months....sorry just ranting.


I guess I should try putting on my Hondata Intake manifold gasket. I wonder how hard it is to port a GSR manifold. I was thinking about buying one for for like 20-40 bucks and using my dremel and seeing if I could try and port it...just for fun.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did u fix all the maintenance issues like all the leaky stuff?

If you have an itch to modify something engine wise, i say you just get a tuning base (hondata/crome/uberdata etc). that way when you go turbo you can just get it re-tuned.

Maybe some gauges too, like a boost and oil pressure gauge. You'll be able to see a general idea of what condition your engine is in. 19-21 inches of vacuum at idle indicate healthy ring seal, and 25psi of oil pressure at idle indicates oil pump/bearing journals are still in spec etc...

Liquidgsr

no I haven't fixed all that. Thats a good idea. I should do that. Im leaking a little oil from the cam seal or head gasket. I will be replacing that when the when the weather permits it. I think I might do the tuning thing though. Either Hondata S200/300 or if I find someone who can tune with crome around here I will do that.

nathanong87

speaking of gauges

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no I haven't fixed all that. Thats a good idea. I should do that. Im leaking a little oil from the cam seal or head gasket. I will be replacing that when the when the weather permits it. I think I might do the tuning thing though. Either Hondata S200/300 or if I find someone who can tune with crome around here I will do that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool. go for that first. even if u dont have a turbo yet, the boost and oil pressure gauges are a good buy. plus its good motivation to see that "boost" text in the gauge to move you to the next step.

thats actually how i did it too...boost/oil press gauges first, ghetto mounted even with electrical tape...then i got the crome running the 440cc injectors on the turbo map even without the turbo (since crome adjusts fuel based on what the map sensor sees..so you can run it while you're still NA..so as soon as it sees positive atmosphere aka Boost then it will adjust).

those two steps are pretty major, so even if u decide not to go turbo...you'll at least have a good idea whats going on with your engine.

Liquidgsr

nice..nathan ill probably buy the oil pressure gauge from then.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im wondering what I should do next. My car needs a paint job and some body work and I can't afford to do that now. I want to make a little more power and I am wondering if I should look into upgrading the valve train. Anyone know of some good cams to look at. I want something that I wont have to take out if and when I go turbo.

BTW im running I/H/E right now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any cam setup for NA will not be ideal when you go turbo. Valvetrain wise, you can stay stock even with turbo as long as you dont go past your rev limit. So IMO, valvetrain is the least likely candidate for your wallet.

If you just spent your time and money on doing all the maintainence required on your car, you'd be better off and it would make your car that much more reliable. There are a few things that you can inspect that could be slowing you down a bit...
-Ever check to see if your brakes are dragging? Maybe frozen caliper?
-Cap, rotor, spark plugs? How they doing?
-Throw your CAI back in
-Try motor mount inserts...they help put the power to the ground. I made solid torque mounts instead and the car feels way better.
-Got anything heavy in your car that you can do without? Spare tire, junk, stuff like that? Lighter = Better
-SEAFOAM! Who knows, maybe its dirty up in that motor....oh but wait, I forgot. Your compression numbers were a little shaky. Instead....

--**REPLACE YOUR HEADGASKET!!! That'll seriously bring your performance back. Oh it'll feel oh so good. Do Timing belt and Water pump while you're at it.

Liquidgsr

lol. How do I know if my cap and rotor need to be changed? My brakes are fine, I changed them to hawk pads not to long ago and there gripping nicely. I do need to do the Headgasket change and the cam seal. Also want to put my hondata manifold gasket in. I guess I will leave the valve train alone then. I gotta put my CAI back on...maybe this weekend. I don't think its affecting my gas milage much if at all. Axel back might or might not go back on. I like the quiet sound and I still have the aftermarket piping...just stock axel back. Thanks for input guys.

4DRDB8GSR

I Have For Sale
A P28 Hondata S300 With OBD-2a/OBD-1 Wire Harness. Tuned By Bubba Of "Do-It-Dyno" Custom Tuned For My Gs-R With MSD 8.5mm Wires, AEM Type R CAI, JG 65mm TB, S2 IM, JG 4-2-1 Header, Carsound 2-1/4" Cat, And Magnaflow 2-1/4" Cat Back

(Stock GsR With I/H/E) Making 164.7WHP And 120.5WTQ And The Thing Rips.

Let Me Know If You Intrested Liquid, BOLT ON POWER!!!

Also Have All The Parts Lited Above For Sale If Anyone Is Intrested.

Spec R

let us know when u put that gauge in. theres a ghetto way and a right way to do it.

oh yeah, the motor mount inserts do wonders for the way the engines responds to your driving/shifting inputs.

i would definitely go with those first.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Just remove the cap from the distro. and check the terminals and rotor. If it looks bad, change it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let us know when u put that gauge in. theres a ghetto way and a right way to do it.

oh yeah, the motor mount inserts do wonders for the way the engines responds to your driving/shifting inputs.

i would definitely go with those first.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Numba 1 Numba 1 Numba 1!

Liquidgsr

my tranny mount is almost gone...the one you can see from the passanger side wheel well. How hard is it to install the instersts? Should I go with the energy suspension ones or get brand new motor mounts?


4DRDB8GSR
lemme know how much you want for the S300. I might be interested in it. Although I don't think im going to be switching to a single stage manifold.

Liquidgsr

change the whole distributor? Advanced auto parts should have replacements right?

MINTGRN4DR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-Try motor mount inserts...they help put the power to the ground. I made solid torque mounts instead and the car feels way better.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

as far as vibration during idle, was there much of a difference?

Spec R

the inserts for the bottom mounts (torque mounts) are easy. u just do one at a time. 19mm bolts.

i actually only did the bottom 2 torque mounts, and filled (like charles) the upper front mounts.

that in itself was a huge improvement.

if u do that IM gasket, then you'll have access to the rear motor mount, so install the insert at the same time.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MINTGRN4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

as far as vibration during idle, was there much of a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine was pretty bad. people went wtf.

but its bad when you have wheelspin and stuff like your coin pockets and ashtray and glove box pop open.

4DRDB8GSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4DRDB8GSR
lemme know how much you want for the S300. I might be interested in it. Although I don't think im going to be switching to a single stage manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If You Want Since The S300 Is Tuned For The S2 IM I Will Sell You The OBD-1 P28 Hondata S300, OBD-2 Wire Harness, S2 Pro Series IM, JG 65mm TB, Gray AEM Type R CAI, Type R Throttle Wire & Stay, And All The S300 Software And Cables For $1,300. I Paid Over $2,200 6 Months Ago For All Of The Above. Let Me Know.

Liquidgsr

Thanks man, but spending that much money I would buy a used greddy turbo kit.


Modified by Liquidgsr at 8:21 PM 1/9/2007

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">change the whole distributor? Advanced auto parts should have replacements right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, just remove the 3 screws on the distributor cap, then look on the contacts inside the cap and the rotor stuck on the distributor itself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Liquidgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my tranny mount is almost gone...the one you can see from the passanger side wheel well. How hard is it to install the instersts? Should I go with the energy suspension ones or get brand new motor mounts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can replace those torque mounts, get Urethane Inserts from Energy, or Use your old mounts and fill them with RTV Urethane (3M Window Weld, for instance) to make solid mounts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MINTGRN4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as vibration during idle, was there much of a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if your car has a bunch of loose screws and panels, then I would steer away from this. But, if your car does and you can deal with the extra noise, I'd say DO IT. It seriously feels like a whole different drive after doing my mounts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spec R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

mine was pretty bad. people went wtf.

but its bad when you have wheelspin and stuff like your coin pockets and ashtray and glove box pop open.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? I bet it was cuz of the rear mount itself. How did you remove the mount anyways? Any tricks you know?

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnjoyTheRideDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Really? I bet it was cuz of the rear mount itself. How did you remove the mount anyways? Any tricks you know?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, because on the dyno my engine barely moved, even with the madd tiight non-vtack.

oh yeah and with the the launch control haha that **** was awesome.

oh wait, i get what u mean. no i NEVER did the rear mount. it was already bad with just the fronts.

MINTGRN4DR

i cant sacrifice comfort right now.
plus i haven't had the car long and every time i remove something to do maintnence or install something i find missing screws,nuts,or bolts! it sucks

Liquidgsr

I think im going to buy some ES insertes tomorrow. I saw them on Optsalon.com for $42.

Spec R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MINTGRN4DR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant sacrifice comfort right now.
plus i haven't had the car long and every time i remove something to do maintnence or install something i find missing screws,nuts,or bolts! it sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know how that goes. i swear i cringed every time i had to put the car on a lift or on jacks because i know i'd find something new. something leaking, something missing, something bent...it goes on and on.

it made me wonder why these cars were so popular. then i pretended that there were no problems at all and drove the sh*t out of it. then it puts a smile on your face.