CF_EM1

Looking good man^^^ Ive been searching for a bike rack forever but cant find one for a good deal locally nd dumpt thanks for the pic it kind of gives me an idea of what Im looking for Once Im ready ill be showing you guys what im doing and why I am asking all these questions lol........


Anyways on a side note some more goodes came today but are at the front office so Ill be snaggin them up this morning

CF_EM1

Got any pics of your side moldings close up?

dfanatic

the latest purchase : )

Hulla Dump't

i was gonna do black door handles too but didnt get to finish =(

dfanatic

this is true, mine came black from the factory. had them painted when the car was sprayed last year.

00IntegrAllmotoR

iTrader: (1)

Today's project:

Hawk HP+ Pads all around, Motul Full Brake Flush.



Tomorrow's project:

S2000 Clutch Master Cylinder Install and SS lines, Full Flush.

ejwan

Thanks for the condolences squad. Yea i stay very near you and will keep that in mind. Just hope that the economy can pick up quick so that i can start my career to finish the db faster. There is no parting from this db now lol like i had in mind in the past. Anyone from the squad works at acura in socal? I'm gonna need quite a bit of new parts, gotta make the db last my entire lifetime.

I forgot what i had first sold you way back but it was a crazy and memorable experience. Had my ejwan back then as my sn states haha.

TekBuDDy

ah, Question! How would the sk2 benefit ? Stiffer pedal, or smaller?

peterbuilt

did you happen to find that link
thanks

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Smaller, and looks trick in an engine bay since it has the fluid reservoir right on top of the master cylinder and not on the shock tower. But pedal pressure is no different, at least in my opinion.

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

Do a write up on the install and how to make adjustments for it in our cars! Would def benefit the DB guys looking to go with one of these

Boys, today is a good day! I got my OEM trunk back from my buddy at the body shop earlier this week along with getting a buddy to mount/balance my new wheels and tires. Got the trunk on today along with the wheels. She looks SUPER FRESH!

Now I need to put on a new oil pan gasket along with a oil change and she will be ready to hit the road again!

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Anyone need purple open end lugs?
http://www.hondamarketplace.com/show....php?t=2923155

I know this is not a fs thread, I dont need them.

DBiNfEcTeD*

iTrader: (9)

^x2!!!! i would like to know as well! My buddy crashed his S2k not too long ago and has a few parts lying around.




^^ we want pix plz!!

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

LOL DBiNfEcTeD*, coming up on a homie's misfortune? jk jk jk.


S2k CMC install into Integra.
Write-Up Courtesy of beedoublejay:

I decided to replace my leaky clutch master cylinder with an s2000 unit instead of going with a new Integra one.

After doing some research I found b16rex_02 here on Honda-Tech who sells an awesome "kit" through www.checkerdsports.com. The kit includes the s2000 CMC, Machined aluminum spacer (required to achieve the desired pedal travel/engagement), and firewall gasket. I went to a local street rod shop to source the braided line that I will use to replace my hard line.

Here are a few pictures of my soft line, the CMC kit, and a home made bleeder that I used to both drain the old system and bleed the new system.







Here you can see the location of the old master cylinder (referred to as the "Wack MC" from here on) The reservoir is bolted on to the shock tower with (2) 10mm bolts, the MC itself is bolted to the firewall directly under/behind the reservoir.



Top view of the wack MC (pay no attention thieves, this alarm siren has been moved )



The wack MC is held on by (2) 12mm nuts on the inside of the car (pictured below). The shaft is connected to the pedal assembly by a pin held in place by a cotter pin. The upper 12mm nut is hidden in this picture but it is directly behind the pedal and bracket where the empty circle is. You can also see where it has been leaking all over the carpet and padding



After getting under the dash and looking at the situation, I decided to remove my drivers seat so that I could lay on the floor without breaking my back...




I got distracted and started taking things off the car (I was also going to tuck the drivers side wires and remove a few other things from the engine bay).



Back on track. Time to drain the wack MC and hard line. Instead of using a syringe to suck the fluid out of the resivoir, I attached my home made bleeder to the slave cylinder and opened the bleeder screw.





Now that the system is open, I pumped the clutch pedal until the reservoir was empty. This will not get ALL of the fluid out of the system, but it was enough so that I could remove the wack MC without spilling.



I highly recommend this tool for the job, or just to have in general. I was able to use this for all the OEM hard lines and the flex feature helped a lot. It is 10mm on one side and 12mm on the other side.



Disconnecting the hard line from the wack MC.



Next I went inside the car to remove the (2) nuts from the studs, and to remove the cotter pin from the pedal. For the 12mm nuts I used a 12mm wrench and 12mm deep socket. For the cotter pin, pliers.



Here are the two units side by side. If you hate clutter in your engine bay than you can see the benefit of the new CMC and line.



In the previous picture you can see that the new CMC did not include a boot. I got out the power tools and went to town on the wack MC in order to remove and reuse the old boot.



I am not going in to much detail on the next few photos. If you are going to remove the existing hard line then just follow it from the master cylinder and remove each bracket as you go, some of them take a lot of patience to get out. My pictures are in order going right to left....or master cylinder to slave cylinder.



Closer...



Next bracket below shock tower...



Next bracket going from hard line to soft line near the tranny mount...



Next bracket going from soft line back to hard line...



Now everything is removed, wack MC, lines, everything.



In this picture you can see the CMC mounted with the line attached. Get back inside the car and install the CMC with the bots and pins you removed from the old one. You may need to take the CMC out to adjust the shaft so that it lines up with the pedal correctly so don't get in there and bolt it all the way down right away.

THIS PART IS VERY IMPORTANT

Once the CMC is bolted in place, you must bleed the CMC without the line connected. If you try to bleed the CMC with the line attached you will be there for a VERY LONG TIME. Trust me : )

This is how you do it. detach the line from the CMC, fill the resivoir with brake fluid and depress the pedal. The pedal will go to the floor and not come up. Now have a friend plug the open port on CMC with their finger and manually raise the pedal - this will prime the CMC. Now you can attach the line and proceed to bleed as normal.

As seen here: http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=644



Here is a picture of the braided line on the slave cylinder side. I had to get a file and shave about 1-2mm off the block under the "HM" stamp to accommodate the 10x1.0 fitting that I used to connect the braided line to the slave cylinder.



That's pretty much it!

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

I dont see why you couldn't sell in this thread? I sure as hell dont mind members letting other members in on things before they throw it out in the marketplace.

DBiNfEcTeD*

iTrader: (9)

big boss always coming through with the knowledge .. LOL guess u can say i would be coming up off my homie's misfortune... even tho it was his dumbass fault.

post a pic for once boss... eager to see that green DB again

Apathy47

iTrader: (2)

AAAWWW I'm jealous!!! I've always wanted the Mugen lip for the 94-97 front end! Also snap some on how you installed it too, I'm thinking a few screws and 3M double-sided tape? Please snap some pics when it's mounted on your car.

Nice write-up! I've been curious about this too and your DIY is simple to understand. And finally we get to see pics of your car...You have a 94-97 front too!??!!? 94-97 front end love.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

That's not my DB....No WAY. Look at the pictures closely where he mentions removing his front seat to free up work space. Thats a DC.

The write up was Courtesy of beedoublejaY.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

As soon as I finish washing the DD. DB is parked in front of it and besides, needs a wash too.

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for posting up the how-to on the CMC! Good stuff. I may find me one now. So with the spacer you do NOT have to deal with cutting length off of the threaded "shaft", correct?

I will get pics of the DB either tomorrow or Monday when I am back home. I got the oil pan gasket changed and new Royal Purple in. Need to put downpipe back on and start it up to see how well I do with oil pan gaskets before anything. The car then needs a bath and some photos for you guys! Hopefully I will be driving it next week and I CANT WAIT

CF_EM1

Dont worry about the side molding issues I was having.....I pulled up right behind a 4dr today with factory black moldings and it answered all my questions so my search starts unless anyone has some factory black ones they wanna sell

Hulla Dump't

just paint it

CF_EM1

Heck No....virtually impossible to get the same look as factory black plastic and I need them to look like that

Hulla Dump't

WHY!!!!!

CF_EM1

Cant let out my secret out just yet but soon I promise on another note here are a couple and recent throw backs when I had the crappy hood and different wheels.


I will admit I miss my rpf1's even if every other person has a set.