DA Integra's Only
11-30-2006, 06:06 PM
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Re: (pattycake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pattycake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
u mean the mr5s on my car hahahaha jk</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
both
u mean the mr5s on my car hahahaha jk</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
both
11-30-2006, 06:17 PM
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Re: Re: (Semi-FlatDA9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Semi-FlatDA9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i got a question and someone has an answer. i put corbeau seats and harnesses in my car and i was wondering how i would disconnect the automatic seatbelt motor. that damn chime is annoying. as is the seatbelt light in my cluster but im just gonna unplug the bulb for that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Disconnect the control box in the passenger kick panel. Close the doors first so the mouse thing is in the back position.
Disconnect the control box in the passenger kick panel. Close the doors first so the mouse thing is in the back position.
11-30-2006, 08:19 PM
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Re: Re: (sacjdmz)
I love da's, clean *** cars
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sacjdmz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHAHA!!!! Internet tough guy huh....? Why don't you see me at one of the shows then we'll see who the "bitch" is when you're lyin on the ground with 4 bullets in your face and your bitch *** mommy and daddy standin over you cryin.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahahaha, what a tool
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sacjdmz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHAHA!!!! Internet tough guy huh....? Why don't you see me at one of the shows then we'll see who the "bitch" is when you're lyin on the ground with 4 bullets in your face and your bitch *** mommy and daddy standin over you cryin.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Hahahaha, what a tool
12-01-2006, 04:58 AM
Re: Re: (9311dan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9311dan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
eh i disagree....reasonable power in a Honda is 200 whp, which can easily be attained with something like
B18B1 Block, B16A head
RM MX22 Camshafts
AEM Adjustible Cam Gears
Supertech Valvetrain
Mild Ported Head and IM
P30 Pistons
LS Rods
Nice Tune
that would probably put you around 200 whp, but it's all in the tune....but yeah, that set-up would probably be a little less than a full turbo set-up...but to each his own </TD></TR></TABLE> 
you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. 
eh i disagree....reasonable power in a Honda is 200 whp, which can easily be attained with something like
B18B1 Block, B16A head
RM MX22 Camshafts
AEM Adjustible Cam Gears
Supertech Valvetrain
Mild Ported Head and IM
P30 Pistons
LS Rods
Nice Tune
that would probably put you around 200 whp, but it's all in the tune....but yeah, that set-up would probably be a little less than a full turbo set-up...but to each his own
</TD></TR></TABLE> you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information.
12-01-2006, 06:23 AM
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My friend in his DC2
B18B1 block, B16a2 Head
B16 Trans
ctr pistons
ctr camshafts
ctr valvetrain
I/H/E
191 whp, don't know the tq
13.1 @ 108
if that's not fast for a ******* honda, then I don't know what is.
And no, the set-up I listed is not "straight from H-T", i'm not on here enough to waste my time looking up "the best N/A set-up"....that's what I'm using for my DA, cept instead of a B16 head I'm using a B18C1 head which has been ported, polished, and 3-way vjob. What I listed is a more aggressive cam, there is no reason why it shouldn't be near 200 whp.
And if you honestly still believe that I'm just some noob, you're wrong.
AT-MT conversion myself
this is a post from a recent thread on hondaforums about how I did my AT-MT conversion and what parts i needed, very brief, but it gets the point across:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did this in my DA....
What you need:
Tranny
Clutch
Pressure Plate
Flywheel
Flywheel Bolts
Pressure Plate Bolts
MT Intake Manifold
IACV
Shift Linkage
Shifter
Shifter Bushings
Pedal Assembly
Clutch Cable
Throttle Cable
Clutch Cable Brackets ( 2 on VC, 1 on Trans)
Reverse Switch on Trans
Wire the Reverse Switch
MT ABS Axle's, i used an AT Drivers Side Axle and just got a new PS ABS Axle
MT Starter Bolts, you can use the AT Starter, just need diff bolts
MT Cluster
Shift Boot
Shift ****
The template is there, but we made a new one out of 1/4" thick metal (don't remember what kind)
I'm probably forgetting things....but if I think of them I'll post it up
Things to know:
You'll have to shim the PS Engine Mount in order for the engine to be 100% level, so take the mounting bolts to a hardware store and get the same bolts, but about 4" long instead of 2", then do what you want to raise the mount to the correct level height
You will be making trips to Acura for little parts like cotter pins, springs, bolts, etc... don't get frustrated.
We dropped the entire engine/trans just because it allowed more room to work with, it only takes about 30 minutes to drop a motor, take the time and do it. Some people prefer to just turn the brake assembly and pull out an axle and go from there, but I liked pulling the motor....
I installed Clutchmasters Clutch, PP, and Flywheel as well as a B&M Short Throw Shifter during the conversion. i recommend doing that so you don't have to go about dropping the trans again.
ECU: You can run the AT ECU, but I'd recommend just buying an OBD-0 MT ECU, i think it might be PR3, not too sure though. I'm running the AT ECU, AT Intake Manifold for now, and a disconnected IACV for idling purposes. I have the MT IM in my trunk, i just need a new IACV, and I'll be converting to OBD-1 and using a P72 ECU when I go ls vtec next month.
Fluids: Power Steering Fluid will drain out, obviously you'll need tranny fluid, and I suggest doing a coolant flush and an oil/oil filter change while you're at it. We also used some lubricant to put at the base of the shifter for ease of movement.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask, i'm on here everyday during class and before i go to bed....later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is my car, everything done myself.
don't be an *** just for the hell of it, that's typical Honda-tech.
Modified by 9311dan at 2:35 PM 12/1/2006
B18B1 block, B16a2 Head
B16 Trans
ctr pistons
ctr camshafts
ctr valvetrain
I/H/E
191 whp, don't know the tq
13.1 @ 108
if that's not fast for a ******* honda, then I don't know what is.
And no, the set-up I listed is not "straight from H-T", i'm not on here enough to waste my time looking up "the best N/A set-up"....that's what I'm using for my DA, cept instead of a B16 head I'm using a B18C1 head which has been ported, polished, and 3-way vjob. What I listed is a more aggressive cam, there is no reason why it shouldn't be near 200 whp.
And if you honestly still believe that I'm just some noob, you're wrong.
AT-MT conversion myself
this is a post from a recent thread on hondaforums about how I did my AT-MT conversion and what parts i needed, very brief, but it gets the point across:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did this in my DA....
What you need:
Tranny
Clutch
Pressure Plate
Flywheel
Flywheel Bolts
Pressure Plate Bolts
MT Intake Manifold
IACV
Shift Linkage
Shifter
Shifter Bushings
Pedal Assembly
Clutch Cable
Throttle Cable
Clutch Cable Brackets ( 2 on VC, 1 on Trans)
Reverse Switch on Trans
Wire the Reverse Switch
MT ABS Axle's, i used an AT Drivers Side Axle and just got a new PS ABS Axle
MT Starter Bolts, you can use the AT Starter, just need diff bolts
MT Cluster
Shift Boot
Shift ****
The template is there, but we made a new one out of 1/4" thick metal (don't remember what kind)
I'm probably forgetting things....but if I think of them I'll post it up
Things to know:
You'll have to shim the PS Engine Mount in order for the engine to be 100% level, so take the mounting bolts to a hardware store and get the same bolts, but about 4" long instead of 2", then do what you want to raise the mount to the correct level height
You will be making trips to Acura for little parts like cotter pins, springs, bolts, etc... don't get frustrated.
We dropped the entire engine/trans just because it allowed more room to work with, it only takes about 30 minutes to drop a motor, take the time and do it. Some people prefer to just turn the brake assembly and pull out an axle and go from there, but I liked pulling the motor....
I installed Clutchmasters Clutch, PP, and Flywheel as well as a B&M Short Throw Shifter during the conversion. i recommend doing that so you don't have to go about dropping the trans again.
ECU: You can run the AT ECU, but I'd recommend just buying an OBD-0 MT ECU, i think it might be PR3, not too sure though. I'm running the AT ECU, AT Intake Manifold for now, and a disconnected IACV for idling purposes. I have the MT IM in my trunk, i just need a new IACV, and I'll be converting to OBD-1 and using a P72 ECU when I go ls vtec next month.
Fluids: Power Steering Fluid will drain out, obviously you'll need tranny fluid, and I suggest doing a coolant flush and an oil/oil filter change while you're at it. We also used some lubricant to put at the base of the shifter for ease of movement.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask, i'm on here everyday during class and before i go to bed....later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
here is my car, everything done myself.
don't be an *** just for the hell of it, that's typical Honda-tech.
Modified by 9311dan at 2:35 PM 12/1/2006
12-01-2006, 09:23 AM
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Re: (90da r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90da r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that last pic is very cool. like the blue from the bridge. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
philly ftw!
</TD></TR></TABLE>philly ftw!
12-01-2006, 09:26 AM
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Re: (90da r)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, your DA was pretty slow foo.... hahaha
yea, your DA was pretty slow foo.... hahaha
12-01-2006, 12:05 PM
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Re: Re: (UNKNOWN_MEMBER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. </TD></TR></TABLE>
An assload of power in fwd car is kinda pointless on the street, all you get is wheelspin.
you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. </TD></TR></TABLE>An assload of power in fwd car is kinda pointless on the street, all you get is wheelspin.
12-01-2006, 01:05 PM
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last thing: my friend has an SRT-4
intake
wastegate
exhaust
perrin FMIC
BF Goodrich G-force tires (new)
290 whp
380 ft-tq
spins through 3rd from a dig
doesn't grip below 60 on the roll
200 whp in a fwd car is plenty, especially a honda...unless you wanna roll on slicks all the time.
intake
wastegate
exhaust
perrin FMIC
BF Goodrich G-force tires (new)
290 whp
380 ft-tq
spins through 3rd from a dig
doesn't grip below 60 on the roll
200 whp in a fwd car is plenty, especially a honda...unless you wanna roll on slicks all the time.
12-01-2006, 01:17 PM
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Re: Re: (UNKNOWN_MEMBER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. </TD></TR></TABLE>
fast enough for me! i have a gsr swap(I/H/E/) with a b16 head w/ stock obd0 b16 cams/ ITR valve springs/ supertech stainless flat valves. the chassis is a 91 Rs with no powersteering or A/c and has the spare out. the transmission is a Jdm Y1 b16 tranny non-lsd, and for the ecu i have a chipped p28 from phearable.net. In this condition I've walked off on 2 cobalt SS/Sc and ive taken a few srt-4's, and also mustang Gt's are a thing of the past . i think with the right amount of weight taken off and the right modification a N/a set-up can be potent.
believe me i had no clue coming from the ls engine to this engine was gonna be that much of a difference. i was surprised when i started to pull on a Ap1 s2k.
you're insane. do you really think "200whp" is fast, esp in a DA chassis? i bet you never even built a motor and everything you listed is based on honda-techs information. </TD></TR></TABLE>fast enough for me! i have a gsr swap(I/H/E/) with a b16 head w/ stock obd0 b16 cams/ ITR valve springs/ supertech stainless flat valves. the chassis is a 91 Rs with no powersteering or A/c and has the spare out. the transmission is a Jdm Y1 b16 tranny non-lsd, and for the ecu i have a chipped p28 from phearable.net. In this condition I've walked off on 2 cobalt SS/Sc and ive taken a few srt-4's, and also mustang Gt's are a thing of the past
. i think with the right amount of weight taken off and the right modification a N/a set-up can be potent.believe me i had no clue coming from the ls engine to this engine was gonna be that much of a difference. i was surprised when i started to pull on a Ap1 s2k.
12-01-2006, 01:43 PM
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Re: (projectTeG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectTeG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fast enough for me! i have a gsr swap(I/H/E/) with a b16 head w/ stock obd0 b16 cams/ ITR valve springs/ supertech stainless flat valves. the chassis is a 91 Rs with no powersteering or A/c and has the spare out. the transmission is a Jdm Y1 b16 tranny non-lsd, and for the ecu i have a chipped p28 from phearable.net. In this condition I've walked off on 2 cobalt SS/Sc and ive taken a few srt-4's, and also mustang Gt's are a thing of the past . i think with the right amount of weight taken off and the right modification a N/a set-up can be potent.
believe me i had no clue coming from the ls engine to this engine was gonna be that much of a difference. i was surprised when i started to pull on a Ap1 s2k.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yeah! A gsr in a DA is the best, you have endless possibilities and even in stock form a B18C DA moves pretty good!
. i think with the right amount of weight taken off and the right modification a N/a set-up can be potent.believe me i had no clue coming from the ls engine to this engine was gonna be that much of a difference. i was surprised when i started to pull on a Ap1 s2k.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hell yeah! A gsr in a DA is the best, you have endless possibilities and even in stock form a B18C DA moves pretty good!
12-01-2006, 02:39 PM
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Re: Re: (ChaseIntegra)
I have 200 hp all-motor DA and its really nice. And this is coming from a guy that has had a 300 whp turbo DA. I love all-motor sooooo much more. And now that I just installed a 4.9 final drive, it's just that much better. And BTW 13.5 @ 101 . And I can verify the black DC2 running 13.1 with not even 200 HP.
12-01-2006, 04:02 PM
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Re: (Hondatec38)
Ehh that all motor Vs turbo thing will go on forever.
Im pushing 200 in my DA and I love it : )
Just installed an Lsd and new clutch so it should be 10000x more fun!
Last year I had a B16 with 12.5cmp pistons Stage 3 cams I/H/E
It made 167/121
Walked my buddys S2k and a few other cars
Im pushing 200 in my DA and I love it : )
Just installed an Lsd and new clutch so it should be 10000x more fun!
Last year I had a B16 with 12.5cmp pistons Stage 3 cams I/H/E
It made 167/121
Walked my buddys S2k and a few other cars
12-01-2006, 05:19 PM
Re: (9311dan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9311dan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend in his DC2
B18B1 block, B16a2 Head
B16 Trans
ctr pistons
ctr camshafts
ctr valvetrain
I/H/E
191 whp, don't know the tq
13.1 @ 108
if that's not fast for a ******* honda, then I don't know what is.
And no, the set-up I listed is not "straight from H-T", i'm not on here enough to waste my time looking up "the best N/A set-up"....that's what I'm using for my DA, cept instead of a B16 head I'm using a B18C1 head which has been ported, polished, and 3-way vjob. What I listed is a more aggressive cam, there is no reason why it shouldn't be near 200 whp.
And if you honestly still believe that I'm just some noob, you're wrong.
AT-MT conversion myself
this is a post from a recent thread on hondaforums about how I did my AT-MT conversion and what parts i needed, very brief, but it gets the point across:
here is my car, everything done myself.
don't be an *** just for the hell of it, that's typical Honda-tech.
Modified by 9311dan at 2:35 PM 12/1/2006</TD></TR></TABLE> i'm being an *** cause there's too much dumbfucks that give people advice that supposebly "works and makes hp" when them theirselves haven't even tried it. And yes ************ i've tried m22 cams, yes i tried ls/vtec, yes i tried a "bling" rmf header, and all that hype ****. Slap on a baby turbo on a bone stock LS and whoop on a all motor DA easily. And before you say that build you stated is a budget build think again, that **** costs. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9311dan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last thing: my friend has an SRT-4
intake
wastegate
exhaust
perrin FMIC
BF Goodrich G-force tires (new)
290 whp
380 ft-tq
spins through 3rd from a dig
doesn't grip below 60 on the roll
200 whp in a fwd car is plenty, especially a honda...unless you wanna roll on slicks all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE> and you think you'll grab traction with 380tq? a 400hp turbo honda motor doesn't even make that much tq. i'd whoop on fools with a bone stock gsr with a gt30r pushing only 7lbs.
And for everyone that has to bring in their friends stories leave that in the garbage. talk about your own personal experience. Heck i have a friend on h-t that makes 10506hp with 1294tq and he barely spins 1st gear.
B18B1 block, B16a2 Head
B16 Trans
ctr pistons
ctr camshafts
ctr valvetrain
I/H/E
191 whp, don't know the tq
13.1 @ 108
if that's not fast for a ******* honda, then I don't know what is.
And no, the set-up I listed is not "straight from H-T", i'm not on here enough to waste my time looking up "the best N/A set-up"....that's what I'm using for my DA, cept instead of a B16 head I'm using a B18C1 head which has been ported, polished, and 3-way vjob. What I listed is a more aggressive cam, there is no reason why it shouldn't be near 200 whp.
And if you honestly still believe that I'm just some noob, you're wrong.
AT-MT conversion myself
this is a post from a recent thread on hondaforums about how I did my AT-MT conversion and what parts i needed, very brief, but it gets the point across:
here is my car, everything done myself.
don't be an *** just for the hell of it, that's typical Honda-tech.
Modified by 9311dan at 2:35 PM 12/1/2006</TD></TR></TABLE> i'm being an *** cause there's too much dumbfucks that give people advice that supposebly "works and makes hp" when them theirselves haven't even tried it. And yes ************ i've tried m22 cams, yes i tried ls/vtec, yes i tried a "bling" rmf header, and all that hype ****. Slap on a baby turbo on a bone stock LS and whoop on a all motor DA easily. And before you say that build you stated is a budget build think again, that **** costs. <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9311dan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">last thing: my friend has an SRT-4
intake
wastegate
exhaust
perrin FMIC
BF Goodrich G-force tires (new)
290 whp
380 ft-tq
spins through 3rd from a dig
doesn't grip below 60 on the roll
200 whp in a fwd car is plenty, especially a honda...unless you wanna roll on slicks all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE> and you think you'll grab traction with 380tq? a 400hp turbo honda motor doesn't even make that much tq. i'd whoop on fools with a bone stock gsr with a gt30r pushing only 7lbs.
And for everyone that has to bring in their friends stories leave that in the garbage. talk about your own personal experience. Heck i have a friend on h-t that makes 10506hp with 1294tq and he barely spins 1st gear.
12-01-2006, 05:22 PM
Re: Re: (Overkill)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overkill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
An assload of power in fwd car is kinda pointless on the street, all you get is wheelspin.</TD></TR></TABLE> then don't have an assload amount of power
? you can make 300hp w/ a small turbo and barely loose traction due to the more fatter powerband whereas the big turbo will just leap from 100hp straight to 300hp in 500rpm which that will cause you to loose traction.
An assload of power in fwd car is kinda pointless on the street, all you get is wheelspin.</TD></TR></TABLE> then don't have an assload amount of power
? you can make 300hp w/ a small turbo and barely loose traction due to the more fatter powerband whereas the big turbo will just leap from 100hp straight to 300hp in 500rpm which that will cause you to loose traction.
12-01-2006, 09:25 PM
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Re: Re: (UNKNOWN_MEMBER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> then don't have an assload amount of power ? you can make 300hp w/ a small turbo and barely loose traction due to the more fatter powerband whereas the big turbo will just leap from 100hp straight to 300hp in 500rpm which that will cause you to loose traction.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess, I wasn't sure what you meant by that original comment.
? you can make 300hp w/ a small turbo and barely loose traction due to the more fatter powerband whereas the big turbo will just leap from 100hp straight to 300hp in 500rpm which that will cause you to loose traction.</TD></TR></TABLE>I guess, I wasn't sure what you meant by that original comment.