iight. i guess i should have said a 75 wet shot if that makes a difference.

 

THERES A BIG NITROUS THREAD U SHOULD READ ITS VERY HELPFUL

 

this thread has been up to clear things up for me if u didnt read the beginning. ive read all those threads and just some further questions
THANKS

 

when i installed my zex kit it said in the instructions as far as timing 0* for 25 shot, 2* for 55 shot and 4* for 75 shot. you probably wont notice the differance off the bottle. run colder plugs like a ngk bkr7e-11 (there should be a sticker on the driver side of engine that says what the stock plugs are, just look at that part number and subtract 1 from the number in the first part not the -11). i would do what was stated earlier and mark your distributer for each timing setting so you can change it quickly when you change your jets. i also HIGHLY recomend a rpm window switch because since the zex kit activates at wot it is possible to activate it too early (under 3000 rpm) and that WILL make your engine go boom like mine did . but as long as you have a fuel pump that can handle the extra demand and you are carefull with it you will be safe with a 75 shot stock.

 

so u do recommend retarding the timing 4*? and like how exactly do i do it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by got wide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(there should be a sticker on the driver side of engine that says what the stock plugs are, just look at that part number and subtract 1 from the number in the first part not the -11).</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean add one?

 

i was just reading on retarding my timing, does anyone have a step-by-step thingy mobober on how to do it.

 

yeah sorry i did mean add 1 to that number. and yes i recomend 4* retarded

to reatard/addvance your timming all you have to do is loosen the bolts on your distributer just enough that you can rotate it untill the timming is where you want it. the best advice i can give you befor you install this or anything on your car for that matter since you dont seem to know that much about your engine (we all start that way, its not a big deal) is go and get a helms, haynes or chilton manual for your car. you can get one for as little as $20 and it will be the best thing you will ever buy and it will pay for itself the first time some thing goes wrong.

 

i know enough about my motor, i just recenetly built a LS. but that doesnt matter. i was just confused on the Retarding/advancing the timing situation. but that helps alot thanks.

 

now im confused? you just built an engine but you need a step by step thingy mobobber to do something as easy as adjust your timing??? that should have been something you did when you first fired up your fresh build. do you even know if you are at the correct timing at the moment?

 

^^^^^ wrong answer

my old stock block B16 loved a 100 shot poured into it.

for the 75 shot, do this

retard the timing 2-3*
use NGK 7 or 8 heat range plugs
run only premium fuel or better

i loved the zex tps function on my car, that way when you lift slightly to shift, you are not spraying if you miss a gear, etc.

if you want any real help, feel free to PM me. i personally have had 4 zex sprayed cars. you may want to disregard some of what was previously posted in this thread.

also, check out the official nitrous thread for some good reading and learning on the subject

 

Just recently sprayed a car with a nitrous controller. Works so much better. Car feels like a boosted h series instead of b series on nitrous. Smoother power delivery helps a **** load.

 

when the first fire up went on, i wasnt there. i had to help my girlfriend move.

 

thanks man. did u have wet or dry shots?

 

any preferable brand of nitrous controller?

 

i have ran both kits. prefer the wet kit

 

what about a direct port?

 

i never got the chance to use my direct port kit, but they are supposed to be the best. Ensuring even distribution to each individual cylinder

 

we used dyno tune progressive controller. Very simple to use, along with hondata controlling the other side of the circuit (as in a window switch). You can select how much of the shot you want to start with and what do you want to end it at by percent. Also you can select how much time it takes for it to kick in (in seconds and .10 of the second).

 

so i got my book to red up on how to retard timing, now i just have to decide if i want a wet shot or a direct port. i would like whatever is safest for the motor, considering the fact that i am only 16 i dont have that good of a job to drop ANOTHER motor in. and suggestions

 

yes, dont do it.

 

have fun

 

LS motor is 400. Get 400 = have **** load of fun... Direct port is better but single nozzle wet kit will be fine.

 

I recall my friend put a no2 kit on his b18b1 WAY back in the day. I can't recall all what he did or the size (probably a 50 or 75), but it lasted a long time. The only reason it blew up - he didn't use a bottle warmer & shot gel into his motor one freeezing winter day.


IMO if you are 16 and can't afford another motor, do it RIGHT (wet, directport+ems control), or not at all. I'd much rather be driving a slower car at 16yrs than waiting for the bus because my broke *** decided to blow up the motor.

 

im not a half [***]er. if i do something then im going to do it right. thats why i have been asking all this questions. i know some people personally that loved the zex wet kit, but if imma do direct port, whats a good brand.