ive been reading on HT for about 2 months about nitrous. i would like to run a 75 shot with a zex kit. i have a ls with stage one clutch, catback, 9lbs flywheel, intake and header soon to come, the motor has probably about 75,000 miles. normal compression. i was wondering if the 75 shot would be reliably. from what i read the only thing zex recommends is colder plugs. in that case my other questions are : do i need to retard timing, better fuel system ext...will the zex kit be safe without a tune (i know its recommended.) any feedback or suggestion would be highly appreciated
thanks Jim-E

 

well 1st off is the kit wet or dry? and i would retard the timing a lil. and is is wet then you should be ok with fuel! and i have had a couple of friends with ls on the bottle and some said the motor didnt hold up but some said it did it would just depend on how well to motor is kepted

 

motor is kepted good. ha, but this would be a wet shot, and how much of retarding

 

when i ran nitrous on my b16 on 100 shot i retarded my timing 2-5 degree

 

would retarding my timing affect my car off the bottle? also what exactly would happen if i didnt retard my time?


Modified by teg_95 at 11:02 PM 10/24/2008

 

mid-morning bump

 

only prob wuth zex kit is that it taps into tps... If your not at WOT it will cut off the flow of no2. (ex: shifting gears)
We installed a kit on my friends K20 and that was his ONLY complaint about the kit. He ran the **** out of that car with nitrous and had stock timing.

The car had no issues what so ever and it was driven hard forover 20k. (upgraded to turbo) The car was semi built crower stge 2 valvetrain and 75 shot, mase'd at 257hp.

Best part abt nitrous is that when you dnt hve it switched "on" its still the same N/A motor you had b4 the nitrous. where turbo consistantly beats on your motor.

 

so would you consider retarding the timing, or just leave it be

 

If your running Hondata or an adjustable ecu id get it tuned into your program. If not, just leave it alone until you can put it on a dyno and have it professionally tuned. It will be fine if your just running the wet kit. Just dont go crazy spraying, stay with a 75 shot until you can get it all dialed in.

 

Colder plugs, run premium gas and you shouldn't pull back timing, but if you want to be safe just retard it 2 degrees. Other that you might want to invest into window switch so you don't spray too early and backfire on nitrous or peg a revlimiter on nitrous. Also another nice thing to get is a progressive nitrous controller, but on 75 shot you should be fine. Also plan on getting some slicks to get the most out of the spray, 1st gear is where nitrous is best unless you got slicks you won't put any of the power down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Colder plugs, run premium gas and you shouldn't pull back timing, but if you want to be safe just retard it 2 degrees. Other that you might want to invest into window switch so you don't spray too early and backfire on nitrous or peg a revlimiter on nitrous. Also another nice thing to get is a progressive nitrous controller, but on 75 shot you should be fine. Also plan on getting some slicks to get the most out of the spray, 1st gear is where nitrous is best unless you got slicks you won't put any of the power down.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is there any colder plugs you recommend such as NGK or anything, and should i chip my ecu for the 93 or just leave it stock.i dont really plan on taking it to the track much so i may skip on the slick, but sooner or later invest in the. it i do retard my timing will that effect the way my car will run off the bottle?????

 

bkr8 or whatever they call them. I always use ngk plugs. Recently changed to non resistor type but I don't know how well they will respond to stock ecu. So just stick to BKR. No need to chip the ecu for 93.

 

and about the retard timing off the bottle

 

take a timing light, and set the base timing lower. You will need to move it to the mark closer to TDC. Right now it's on the middle mark. Then just mark a distributor for NA and for nitrous so you don't need to bust out a light everytime you decide to spray.

 

whats TDC?

 

top dead center. When #1 piston is a top. This is how it goes, on crank pulley. One white mark by it self is TDC. Then couple inches away there are three marks. Two white ones and one red one. Red one is base timing. The one closer to TDC is 2 degrees retarded, the other one is 2 degrees advanced.

 

and this is on the distributor. sorry im new at advancing and retarding timing

 

get a repair manual for your car it will explain. You use a timing light, and you look at the crank pulley while you use the timing light. It blinks everytime the #1 cylinder fires. That shows you on the crank pulley what mark it is in. Then you move the distributor to adjust it. Get a manual at autozone for your car it's the best $20 you will ever spend for your car.

 

alright man, thanks alot. any other suggestions

 

bump

 

i'll sell you my dry kit, with new bottle, purge, bottle warmer and dump tube for 400 bucks.

 

i have the n1 single crank pulley is there any difference i threw my other one away cause it broke so never looked and i cinda only role with my mustang friend now so i cant look at his pulley

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll sell you my dry kit, with new bottle, purge, bottle warmer and dump tube for 400 bucks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i would but im still trying to get the money
an i really want a wet shot
sorry

 

also whats the biggest shot recommended for a stock b16?

 

75 shot is pushing it IMO.