Hello everyone, I think I should share this build.

My name is Jon, I've used the screen name YBLEGAL since the days of AIM. I've been building engines for atleast 10 years. I've been track racing for over 15. My background is in computer systems. Over the next 7 days I'll be finishing this engine, exhaust, intercooler and charge piping. With any luck this will be good to go for Gridlife Circuit Legends on 8-16. Today is 8-4. Aiming to put engine into car 8-12 or 8-13. Street tune it a little bit then dyno tune it at the track. I love a good challenge and this will def be one!

The car is a 2000 Civic hatch. This engine is being designed and built by [mostly] me. I'll be using this engine for circuit lap racing, specifically time attack with Gridlife. Usually these are 15 minute sessions on tracks between 2.5-4.5 miles long. I'm aiming to have a power to weight ratio of around a 5. My car currently weighs 2379lbs. So I need about 500whp to get there. I opted to keep compression high @ 10.5:1 so I don't need as much boost to get there. I'll be using e85 for fuel. I'm mostly worried about the head and turbine housing being able to flow enough. That and if the fuel system can keep up. I kept the AR on the turbo conservative to minimize boost lag. I'd rather start out with 300-350whp of predictable torque vs 400+ boost lag. This setup may be tweaked to optimize my ultimate goal, but that's what tuning is all about

The build:
B20 block and head
Block sleeved by LA Sleeve
Wiseco K623M84 84mm 10.5:1 (-2.30cc) pistons
Eagle H-Beam rods
ARP head studs and main studs
Ebay girdle
Mini-ram Go-Autoworks exhaust manifold with v-bands
Garrett GTX3071R Gen 2 with Tial .82 AR turbine v-band
24x13x3.5 Mishimoto intercooler core
3in charge pipes
3in full exhaust
Tial 44mm wastegate, 50mm bov
Haltech 1500
Delacruz Motorsports 24-2 crank trigger w/ cam home sensor
R35 Hitachi coilpacks with PRP stalks
1300cc Injector Dynamics injectors
Walbro 255 pump

The targets:
Main bearings: 0.0021"
Rod bearings: 0.0021"
Piston-to-wall: 0.0045-0.0055"
Piston ring gap: 0.05"
500whp dyno'd

Block just arrived back from LA Sleeve. Took about a month, and I had the expedited option. They said it would have taken another couple weeks to get it bored and honed for the pistons, so I had them drop that from their list and will let my local machine shop, Opel Engineering, finish the bores. That's why they look so small/thick in this photo. I think they are around 80mm right now. They will be 84mm to get back to standard 2 liter. I'm also having the mains line honed to accommodate ARP studs and a girdle. I probably don't need the girdle, but meh. Might need a dry sump, but not right now.

I spent today, Sunday, port matching the exhaust ports and cleaning up the head decent enough to take to the machine shop. I have a straight edge, but I'm just going to let them hot tank it and if they want to deck it a little that's fine too. The head has never been decked before. Tomorrow morning I'll drop off the block and head at Opel for machine work. Then I'll start with working on the other systems meanwhile. I think I'm going to try to work on the new exhaust first. The car currently has a running B20 in it, so I'll probably end up taking off the current exhaust so can mock up and make the new one a perfect fit. I'll be doing the stainless exhaust welding myself, my first stainless exhaust. Going to try to backpurge nicely. I don't expect my welds to be show quality but I do expect them to be racecar quality; and I'm confident they will be. My friend will be helping me with welding all the aluminum pieces. My welder is DC only and won't do aluminum. He's very good for only doing it as a hobby, so full faith in that getting done right. I bought an intercooler core, and he will use his metal working tools to shape and make the end tanks. (Mishimoto intercooler core the exact size I need for only $100 on amazon prime?! Perfect!) The intercooler will be a dual backdoor. The charge piping will be extremely short and efficient. Hoping there's enough flow there to make my goals. It's basically the biggest intercooler I can fit.

Well I think that's all for now, I'll leave you with some random pics of what I'm working with. Hopefully I'm not too beat to post daily updates. So excited, this is gonna be a fun one!










This was in here for Road America, then cyl 2 spark plug melted and took out an exhaust valve. Cyl 2 spark plug has a helicoil. Don't use a helicoil on a race motor or high compression motor I guess. It melted only cyl 2 plug, but 3 diff times. It melted it when tuned on Neptune. And on Haltech. Injectors were moved around and that didn't change. The only common denominator is the helicoil repair for the sparkplug. So Tuesday after RA I swapped this out for my backup B20 non-v. That's why the next photo is more recent but a 'slower' motor. Just had to keep doing suspension testing.


My friend welded in these bungs


He went the extra mile and made sure the bungs entered the baffled area. I've never seen anyone else do this but in theory this should be awesome.


This is how it looks right now with my last minute made heat deflector for the fan. I made the core support (inspired by PLM). I used a rebar bender to get most of the bends. I used a hydraulic bender for the minor bump by the headlight. This let me fit a full integra radiator and tilt it so far forward I have tons of room for the turbo setup. I spun a bearing at Blackhawk Farms a week before WMHM so my buddy gave me this motor out of his junkyard and in one week I refreshed all the seals and had the rods line-honed for arp rod bolts. Did my basic exhaust port match. Threw an amazon oil pump and gates timing kit on it and it's been super healthy ever since. 3 seasons of track weekends. The best backup motor might not be the fastest but most reliable.


Left is my B20 turbo (new) right is my B16 turbo (used). I'm basically scaling up the same recipe I had for my B16 build (and not poaching the B16 project's parts [maybe that will get a thread one day])




Intercooler core mockup fits like a glove

All comments appreciated! I'm no expert, but I think I try to learn pretty decent. If you have any suggestions or questions let me know. No secrets in this build, we race for competition but it's all for fun.

 

Looks like a solid plan. Only thing i would do is drop the intercooler size down to at least 2.5”. 3” is overkill and would only slow down the boost ramp.

I would also focus on ducting into the radiator/intercooler. 15min at high boost is going to be tough. Also no exhaust leaks at all in the engine bay.

 

Garrett says put the biggest intercooler you can fit in your application. But right on, it might be a tad large.

We will make ducting for sure. Make full use of the hood vent. My friend has a brake and english wheel, so will be making a nice aluminum one eventually.

 

Sorry i meant intercooler tube sizing. I still use 2” tubes and dynod at 430ish whp.

 

Nice build! Which class did you race in prior? Also once turbocharged which class do you intend on competing in? I wanted to throw my B series teg into the ClubTR class but its dominated by K24's lol. Now I have a turbo ITR but it looks like it wouldn't fit into any of the lower classes and I'd end up racing crazy built cars beyond my little ole street car.

 

Hmm interesting. My throttle is 70mm so I wanted at least 2.75 but maybe thats still much? I see so many people have too little flow to make goals so I figured I could go big on that one. Maybe the slower moving volume of air will cool off a little more. I already have the 3in charge tubing stock, so I'll probably go with it for now.

Engine is at machine shop, hopefully finished this week. Knowing them, should be couple days. Ted, James, and Andre are the best!

Didn't get to touch car yesterday but got to inventory parts and order some things to ensure I have everything needed.

Build is starting out with some main cap drama. Opel thought I gave them the wrong caps due to how far off they are. Some are stupid tight vertically but fat horizontal. #5 is the worst. But we just went thru all my b series caps just in case there was some mixup but apparently no, seems that the block side journal on 5 is just funky. When I measured 5 before I sent it to LA Sleeve it was already a little funky. I only measured vertically and I got 0018 on one half and 0009 on the other half. I think I just got a little unlucky. Ted says they think they can make it work tho. I hope so. This motor ran before. It came in my car and was good till I spun a rod bearing hitting 3rd instead of 5th. I have a new crank from the junkyard. But blah. Wish me/them luck I didnt just waste $2k.

My measurements before I shipped it to LA Sleeve:
Main bearings
1 - 2.16535 green/green=0.00015
2 - 2.16505 green/green=0.0003
3 - 2.16485 green/green=0.0005
4 - 2.16505 green/green=0.0003
5 - 2.16515 green/green=-0.0018

​​​​​​5's bore is 0.0028 smaller than 4 and inconsistent on the inside of 5 vs outside of 5, 0.0009 larger on the half of the bearing that faces 4. The half that faces the trans is the zero'd value.

I laid out the exhaust pieces last night. The k-teller 3in mandrel bent stainless + all the down pipe stock and flanges. Ordered a couple things to cover bases. Will try to get exhaust off and mock up/start cutting tonight. Weather has been hot and humid but gonna push forth.
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Waiting on the non-vtec valve spring tool so I can do valve seals. Didn't think about my vtec spring tool not working on the non-v. Tool should be here friday tho.

 

Thank you!

Dont be discouraged. I've been running streetmod all year and placing basically last. I thought my high comp itb b20 would have made a little more power and been more reliable but that wasn't the case. So I've been improving the car while waiting for the sleeves to get done. Started the season with 205-55-15s now on 245-40-17 all around. Been missing a rear wing all season too but nine lives should have their wing to me before this next event. My car was better suited for clubtr but Ive always wanted the car to be faster than that so I set my livery and goals high and doing whatever it takes to get there now.

Ill keep running streetmod for now.

Yeah the NA k24s in street class are a good challenge too. K24s in general...I just have sooo many b series parts it doesnt make sense to jump ship yet.

Gridlife has gotten super competitive and it def takes a lot to even be competitive, in any class. I feel like Im playing catch up. Spent soooo much time and money on this car this year only to be turning laptimes not much faster than sundae cup. But Ive made some bad calls, the itb motor was just not ever going to meet my expectations. And I should have listened to my friends and got a big **** at the start of the season but im stubborn and didnt think id need it. Well gingerman might not have super high speed corners to use it, but all these new tracks ive been on sure could. Turn one at mid ohio was sketch at 90mph and ASM says that should be minimum speed. Will get there.

Ive got gold pass so bet Im not building the car for nothing. Goin again next season for sure

 

You measured your main cap bores with the bearings in? You want to measure with them out. The bearings have squish when you tq them down.

 

I measured with bearings in (torqued to spec with oem bolts) so I could get a ballpark on what bearings I should have on hand. Thats why I used greens for every test and why my resulting clearances are so bad. I did this measuring even tho I decided I was going to do arp main studs, causing the need for a line hone, making my measurements less relevant but still should be ballpark.

The machine shop has a book that specifies nominal bore size. They measure the main bore with no bearing (torqued to spec) before line honing in order to determine how they are going to cut it. Thats where the questions arose.

Does that make correct sense?

 

Hell yea Jon! I'm excited to get started. We WILL make it happen!

 

Yea, your readings will be off with the bearings in. You gotta measure the bores then the crank/ rod then choose a bearing.

 

I was taught to mic the crank (thats the measurement you see listed) then 0 your dialbore gauge on the mic, then measure the bore with bearing installed. The resulting difference is your oil clearance, the second measurement on each line in my previous post. I keep brand new honda green bearings on hand as standards just for doing clearances. For rods and mains.

Real street and others all say to do it this way. You have to have some known thickness bearings on hand or you mic the bearing with a ball-mic or use a ball bearing.

​​​​​I've never done it minus the bearing. But anyway how would you measure the bore? With an inside micrometer?

I've built many engines over the years and none have ever had a bearing failure. I've always done it the way I was taught. When I break something else eventually and I take the engine apart the bearings always still look like new. My ITB B20V race motor bearings still look like new, just looked this morning and forgot to take pics. Still had the slight lines from when I dialbored them during final checks. That didnt wear so that tells you even layer one was not disturbed. That motor made 215hp and ran every gridlife this year so far.
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Got the old exhaust off. Ordered a billion dollars worth of fittings to plumb everything I forgot about or dont have in stock. I hate buying fittings.

Also grabbed a Skunk2 composite fuel rail. Actually sounds like a performance gain, said to keep fuel temps down. My first aftermarket fuel rail. Usually im a cheapskate who only uses oem rails lol.

I just keep visualizing the build process in my head keep identifying little things. Trying to not have that one $10 fitting keep the car from working as it normally goes.

Got a 1/2-20 aluminum bung for the valve cover, to mount the 4 pole hall effect sensor. Also 2 1/8in NPT aluminum bungs to mount in the top of the radiator as coolant return for the wastegate and turbo.

Got a fancy turbosmart oil pressure regulator instead of finding a garrett oil fitting with restrictor at short notice. Honestly a regulator just sounds way nicer anyway, glad Im doing it. -4an fittings and lines from the sandwich plate thru an earls 85 micron inline filter and regulator to turbo. Still got the -4AN x 7/16-24 I.F. adapter with no restrictor of course. Drain stuff been set.

Turbo sits a bit low, so it has to point up. Down gets too close to splitter and nowhere near center of intercooler end tank.

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Clearances so far are just astounding. Like they were meant to be there.



I'm trying to decide how to merge the wastegate with downpipe. I dont want a T junction that wants to build pressure the wrong direction. I cant really get a true venturi style effect I dont think, with the room I have. I think the green line might be the best way, intersecting further downstream and on the lower pressure side of the tube if there is such a thing there. In theory air will be smashing the far outter wall more vs the inside radius I assume.



More tomorrow!

 

When you mentioned some were tight vertical but fat horizontal that is what prompted my reply.

In this page itll show how the bearing is designed. You may have other issues with the setup. Being as the clearance was too tight vertically. Assuming thats in line with the bore. Also yes i use a inside bore gauge to-measure the block

https://aclperformance.eu/files/5646...ies%20info.pdf

 

I had issues with my turbo drain setup in high g corners. Definitely think through that area. The oil backed up in my drain line and sent oil all through my intercooler and every vacuum line. That will definitely kill your weekend.

 

😬 Yeah thats a concern of mine. I've been more worried about hard braking rather than corners tho. Where did you plumb your drainback into?

I'll be using a gsr oil pan thats slightly taller. I'm going to modify the oil pan with an extended capacity kickout. I have the standard aftermarket weld in baffle kit to add to the oem baffles. I considered a trap door on the drainback tube to prevent oil from re-entering the tube on slosh. I've also considered tapping the block above the oil pan but I wanted to find someone else doing thats successfully instead of pioneering that idea.

Right now the pan I'm planning to use has it above the oem baffle in a corner. Trying to decide if I want to modify that placement now. I got the pan this way, been sitting a while, pardon the crud.

Suggestions?



I feel it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWUd-tovmck&t=43s

 

Interesting read. Their method seems totally reasonable to me. I would have to order more tools though. I think my method or their method would result in the same resulting clearance measurement however. We are both measuring the bore with bearing installed vertically 90 deg to parting surfaces. Still no suggestion on measuring horizontally there.

Getting the clearances without shifting the bore is what Ted is working hard to do. I sure hope they can make it work. Theres not too much else I can do other than hope for the best and just send it. Gotta remember this motor ran fine before this. Lap raced it at multiple track days over a year or 2 and until I mis-shifted, seemed fine. Yeah talking 1/3-1/4 the power output of what Im asking of it now, but I think it'll be OK. 🤞

 

Ok moving on from the bearing issues.


I added a turbo drain reservoir to fix my issues. It 100 percent fixed my problem

 

Do you have a post for this? I'm going to google on that now.

Ah I found info. So it would have to be elevated above normal oil level. That might be a little hard in my case. I've got about a 4-5in drop between the turbo and the oil pan bung with only 2 inches from the bottom of the compressor housing to the bung, realistic space for the tank to go. I'm really considering a drysump system down the line. I hope the drainback isn't a big issue in the meantime. We might be able to fab a box directly beneath the turbo but I don't think we will have time before this first event. Thanks for the info! I've never stumbled on these before.

 

Yea ive got a few posts on it in the chat thread. Thats actually my unofficial build thread. Scroll back about a year and a half and youll see me fabbing it up.

vibrant makes a nice flange for the turbo that has a 1/2” female npt thread. Use that to add in a nipple and connect the reservoir there. Turbo drain is a bigger issue than most think. The seals on the turbo eventually let oil past and the blame is always the turbo when in fact its a terrible drain line and length.

Look at the size of your -10 drain line inner diameter. If you do the math on how much volume it will hold before it floods the turbo cartridge youll get a better idea. Under 2 seconds of braking or a 2 second bankd sweeper that small line isnt going to do much when the oil has no where to go

 

I totally agree with that.

I ran a B16 turbo at some track days 5+ years ago. I was lucky I wasn't having that issue. My main issue then was overheating/making it thru a full sesh. The turbo is on the shelf, pictured earlier this thread, and still feels like new after many miles of hard driving + track days. This car will pull way way more Gs than that one I feel like so yeah Ill have to address that.

 

Kool. Good luck dude. I agree, baffling, a good reservoir, but definitely a nice drain is key. Bumping up the -10an line to the next size would be good also. 5/8th line i think would be next

What did you figure out about mounting the cam sensor?

 

🤙

Got a 1/2in-20 aluminum bung, going to mount it in the valve cover.

Exhaust fab going good so far. Will try to get an earlier start tomorrow, need more progress. But happy with what did get done. I'm waiting on the 2-bolt ball flange to arrive tomorrow to complete the downpipe. But Im going to start fitting up the rear sections and welding the vband disconnects to them.

Pics!

 

I seen greg merge the dumptube close to the last bend going under the engine. Dont forget the dumptube flex section

 

Downpipe to dump is going hard mounted. For now atleast.

Flex between downpipe and back sections will be honda style 2 bolt 'spring flange'