When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah it'll be tight. Weld in place. But vband gives a smidge of play atleast.
I'm stoked this has been going fairly smooth. Been doing a lot of fab this year so guess practice helps. Roll cage not long ago. And the stainless core support gave me the stainless training I needed.
Gotta go find another regulator and gauge to backpurge... Trying to get all the cuts done before too late that way I can weld into the night and not make my neighbors angry.
Happy Birthday to me since you started this thread on mine, lol.
This is great. Love the DIY fab and pie cuts and non-vtec content. Super cool build. High-ish comp with decent boost should give you a nice responsive engine with good drivability, and being able to tune it high boost/lower ignition should keep you out of the heavy cylinder pressure range so it will last.
Question on your chop saw... Is that a regular miter saw with a metal cutting blade on it, or a Hitachi metal saw, or is it variable speed?
Happy Birthday to me since you started this thread on mine, lol.
This is great. Love the DIY fab and pie cuts and non-vtec content. Super cool build. High-ish comp with decent boost should give you a nice responsive engine with good drivability, and being able to tune it high boost/lower ignition should keep you out of the heavy cylinder pressure range so it will last.
Question on your chop saw... Is that a regular miter saw with a metal cutting blade on it, or a Hitachi metal saw, or is it variable speed?
Thank you, I'm putting 21 years of honda hobby experience into this one. Glad I started this thread, you guys are already giving me good things to add.
Cylinder pressure meh did you miss this block is sleeved? Lol kidding. I know some limits. What I see is around 25:1 effective compression I should be calling it quits I think. Whats the consensus on this? Torque vs cylinder pressure, who's breaking what first?
I think wrist pins are the weakest link in the bottom end.
It's a woodworking saw with a big cutoff wheel. I melted it some (like 10 years ago, sorry Dad...) but I learned to not let the pipe sit there too long after cutting and its fine.
Interesting. If it does the job then send it. I've always stayed away from trying it because metal saws cut so much slower.
Regarding cylinder pressure - What we've learned at work with the K20C is that we can run more boost with a less ignition and the engine will last a lot longer and get better fuel consumption and have better drivability at the resulting lower cylinder pressure... But the K20C is a fragile and fickle thing to try and keep alive on a track car, especially compared to older K series engines. We're also only pushing ~360hp crank with them, and there have been multiple configurations with (if I remember right) up to about 12.5:1 static. The ones I work on daily are stock long blocks and they are on suicide watch at 320-330hp. I did notice the sleeves, the thing should be a beast.
If youre on the standard wirst pins, id think it would be fine 500whp and under. That should be close to under 400wtq. The e85 will help with detonation and ******* **** up lol
I've been using HPS silicone hose for everything and they have been ok so far. This will be second time using the silicone hoses to feed coolant to and from the turbo, first time for coolant to the wastegate. My barb fittings arent very long, I will have to do some long neck banjos eventually. But in the past on my heat soaked b16 they didnt fail so I bet they will be OK for now. PVC does sound sketch tho. Those bougie push connect fittings and hoses previously?
Ive had the polyethelene line melt when i was using all steel bodied push to connect fittings on the wastegate. Ordered some plastic bodied ones from parker, no more melted lines. The fittings from parker should be cheaper than vibrant performance fittings. At least with the poly tubing, you wont have to worry about little pin hole or tears in the silicone tuning. I say that, because i had some the extra thick silicone tubing from silicone intake rip and the barb fitting before.
Good progress today. Basically make a turn down for the rear exit, and weld these suckers up. Then I'm trailering the car over to Ron's house, ronsan, Saturday to have him do up the aluminum things.
My harbor freight welder is only DC its also only lift to start, no pedal option. So I developed an add-on when I was trying to first weld stainless for my front core support. Lift starting is fine of course but wisk away to stop the arc is not at all kosher with stainless. So using some nickel strips with a chunk of wood skewer in between, some electrical tape (to make a momentary button), 18/2 security system wire, a car battery for 12v more than 2amp load delivery, and a lawn mower starter relay, I created a ground interrupt. So I can stop the arc while keeping gas flow going. I'm overdue for a decent welder with features.
No word from opel/machine shop yet. I want to think thats a good thing. I want to believe they did the line hone and it wasn't a failure so they didn't call me. Hopefully tomorrow is bore hone and pickup!
More pics!
Well I scrolled back for those pics so Im gonna throw some random fab pics from earlier this year. The car was 100% different at the end of last year. This has been a crazy year!
This first pic is February 2nd 2024
This looked soo good will try to fix it again and stick it in my CRX. Future GLTC car shhhhh lol.
Last edited by theYBLEGAL; Aug 8, 2024 at 08:20 PM.
Do you have any room to move the radiator away from all of the exhaust tubing and turbine housing? It all looks pretty close.
I'd have to move the radiator to the other side of the traction bar.
Maybe I'll get a smaller radiator like gears and gasoline just did with Bens EK.
Sitting in traffic I would be worried. At race track speeds there shouldn't be much heat able to move that direction.
Funny thing, at South Carolina I was camped right by false grid, there were many times Ben was stuck in traffic in front of my car. After he wrecked the front end he ended up doing a front core support like me. I wonder where he got the idea lol. Also, the plm one in his video really makes me glad I just made mine from scratch
Man youve realllly busy lol. Sucks i dont get to see too many clean hondas rolling around anymore
Yeah and still cramming some work in around all this. Luckily I can do a lot of work remotely, but I do have to make a couple appointments during this round.
The 2 weeks between each gridlife have been slammin.
Woohoo block is in cleaning, I'm clear for pickup! 😁🤘
C'mon Nine Lives ****!
More pics, before the last event, Road America, this was this focus:
I made the haltech and cop plug n play with the oem harness so I can switch motors real quick, no repinning no goofy stuff. Toss in the p30, a distributor, and it's back to oe spec. The wires that run to the distributor function as my cop triggers, power, ground. Worked out nicely
Last edited by theYBLEGAL; Aug 9, 2024 at 04:42 AM.
What size are you running up front and what offset? I notched my trailing arms also a few years back. I run 255 squared but with spacers.
Dang you got me beat.
17x9 +45 245 square but also spacers, 10mm front 3mm rear. Front has slight overfenders I made, rears are rubber mallet rolled. I'm sure I can fit 255 on the front but idk about rear.
You got rear overfenders? Chassis also ek?
My steering range is bleh. Did you clearance anything?
Check out eric lavigne's ek (gridlife road america). Oem pickup points and oem length arms.
Got pie cut welds done yesterday. Took 4hrs of welding and a full tank. And like I said they aren't beautiful but they will hold. No oxidation.
Got a new tank at 7pm last night thankfully. Last chance for the weekend. So I have plenty to complete the vband welds on the tail pieces and the turn down.
This morning I started early, mounted full exhaust to fit the downpipe and cut and tack. That is complete. Just needs finish weld. Going to go really slow so I hopefully dont mis-align it/warp it.
Math was done and the oval has a greater surface area than the tube diameter. So thats good.
Loaded car on trailer and is now at Ron's.
He did all the fab work to this bike. Car is in very good hands 😊
Im going to get some food in me, then probably work on valve seals in the head and start spec'ing out my bearings. I've got a ton of new honda bearings in stock but I also have a full set of std and stdx king bearings mains and rods otw, out for delivery. All bases covered I think.
I tend to use the spray and pray method. Abuse the amazon return policy. Go broke or die trying. 🤙
Loll. Yeah I wasnt too sure about just fusing it. The fit was good. I started fusing but I wasnt sure how strong it would be that way. Oh well its def strong.
Making a downpipe isn't too bad if I gave myself more time. Learning!
Last edited by theYBLEGAL; Aug 11, 2024 at 05:58 AM.
Re: YBLEGAL's B20 Time Attack Build
its also only lift to start, no pedal option. So I developed an add-on when I was trying to first weld stainless for my front core support. Lift starting is fine of course but wisk away to stop the arc is not at all kosher with stainless. So using some nickel strips with a chunk of wood skewer in between, some electrical tape (to make a momentary button), 18/2 security system wire, a car battery for 12v more than 2amp load delivery, and a lawn mower starter relay, I created a ground interrupt. So I can stop the arc while keeping gas flow going. I'm overdue for a decent welder with features.
