I'm sure i'll catch hell for removal of a functional tach, but I don't even use it any way.. I drive by ear and setup a CEL shift light if I need to know when to shift hard on it.

flame suit is on.. opinions of all kind welcome







BOSCH wideband sensor: $25
Wideband controller with display: $40
total investment: $65.00

 

Actually that's not too bad. I pretty sure you could get the tach on there as well though.

 

trust me, i tried.. no dice. electronics for the tach are in the way

 

Damn. That said, it's not a bad idea at all.

 

I like! But there HAS to be a way to get both gauges to fit. At one point I had integrated the guts of an autometer mechanical boost gauge in a way such that the needle action was at the bottom 1/4 of the tach where it's open a little bit. It took a few nights, some trial and error, and a lot of dremeling but It turned out pretty nice IMHO for what it was. If I had to do it again i'm sure I could do it faster and nicer. Any pics of the backside of the lambda gauge to see what you have to work with? :thumbsup: either way though!

 

now that I look at the tach a little more, yeah it's possible with a little cutting.. I didn't want to do anything I couldn't put back together if something went wrong.

I will try sometime when I pick up another cluster


oh yeah, sorry I already have the cluster back in the car.. those are the only pics I took..

 

not bad. its what h-t is all about...trying new **** and getting creative. could you have ditched the factory water temp gauge instead? obviously you thought of that...

 

can someone send me a link for this wideband setup that's cheap. Is there an output to run into ecu for datalogging?

 

Look nice!

 

it looks nice but i would have rather ditched the speedo rather than the tach.

 

where did you buy the parts?
BOSCH wideband sensor: $25
Wideband controller with display: $40
total investment: $65.00

 

I got the wideband setup from a friend.. you can get the same setup from 14point7.com.. Alan To is a great guy and his customer service is top notch.

he has a new version out .. 1.04 which has EGT and daisy chained displays. I plan on upgrading and stacking the displays the same way once I get the chance.. then again I've been scoping out neptunes tuner display also

 

Just de-solder the LED digits, then reconnect them via a ribbon cable from a PC's HDD cable. It becomes 1/2 the thickness and 1/3 narrower.

Worst-case it will stick out a tad to allow for the mechanicals. I'm definately looking into this (lean-burn on my beater!), since the controller is so cheap. I already have an LC-1 & spare sensors, but that's used for moving from car to car.

 

Get a small autometer tach and install it above the wideband readout even....could be cool.

 

freakin' good idea.. thanks nog

 

yea dude where did you get the parts??? HOW TO IS DUE FROM YOU...

 

Nice work, but i would miss the tach.

Where did you got the Sensor for $25?

 

thats very nice

 

He said he got it from a friend, so he didn't have to pay retail.

You may as well just get 3 new 1.1 displays, since the 4th will be RPM - then you don't need the old-school needle. Supposedly a future firmware release will let you select which of the 4 you want; it's always 1.AFR-2.EGT-3.BOOST-4.RPM atm.

I've been looking at the 14point7.com site, and I'm probably going to get 2 units for perm install. I figure if the LCD display is $6 in parts, and you don't need the $17 board (he published the schematic), $6+wiring is a steal. The LC-1 I use for tuning uses the O-meter, which goes for ~$69...


Overall with the O2 connectors, I figured ~$185 for 2 controllers and 6 displays. Amazon has the sensors for $48 atm, so if you figure under $150 for everything NEW, it's a GREAT deal. It's not perfect for tuning IMO, but the best perm install for your dollar.

 

thats pretty cool

 

pretty cool

 

are you saying the JAW is not good for tuning?

 

not at all, he's just saying it doesn't come with a case, so it's more of a permanent install by default.. most tuners wouldn't use it for that reason.

here's another picture I took, higher resolution, showing the finished product:

 

i'm also thinking about putting a see-through black film in front of the digits, so it only shows the active LED numbers and hides the unused portion, which is only noticeable during daylight..

 

JAW has really bad problems with the Firmware and the VOUT (analog Voltage output). Many ppl connect the VOUT to a ECU's analog input (o2 sensor or ELD) to read the A/F ratio over the ECU logs. But excaltly this does not work in a satisfing way (right now). The output on JAW's own display seems to work right!?
You can read alot of the JAW problems in there forum on there site. http://www.14point7.com .

I have a JAW permament installed into my car, but if there isn't soon a working firmware i'll replace it with a http://www.wbo2.com unit.