WHP VS BOOST
10-13-2006, 08:50 AM
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WHP VS BOOST
what is it that kills motors? too much boost or whp? i know that boost creates more whp but i always read that someone "overboosted". doesnt that just mean they made more power then thier motor could handle? if so, then why bother with exhaust, porting, cams, or intake manifolds for turbo applications when all you need to do is boost more to get the same amount of power that you would have gotten with cams, porting, intake, exhaust, etc...i know it will flow better and probably spool faster but if im trying to stay on a budget and dont want my car loud why not just get the basics for the kit and get a good tune?
300whp at 7 psi=300whp at 15psi , right? some motors would need more boost to make the same power but whp is whp right? it makes a difference when your almotor but when boosting whats the point of all the other stuff? Example; my d16y8 can do around 200whp safely stock. ive seen people get cams, Edelbrock intake, and exhaust to make more power at a lower psi but whats the point if the motor can only take 200whp? woudnt it be easier to just turn up the boost for the same 200whp?
someone shed some light for a noob
300whp at 7 psi=300whp at 15psi , right? some motors would need more boost to make the same power but whp is whp right? it makes a difference when your almotor but when boosting whats the point of all the other stuff? Example; my d16y8 can do around 200whp safely stock. ive seen people get cams, Edelbrock intake, and exhaust to make more power at a lower psi but whats the point if the motor can only take 200whp? woudnt it be easier to just turn up the boost for the same 200whp?
someone shed some light for a noob
10-13-2006, 09:04 AM
#3
Re: WHP VS BOOST (gtz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gtz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
300whp at 7 psi=300whp at 15psi </TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, I'd the flame suit on. I'm sure someone will just bitch and moan that you didn't hit the search button (top right corner).
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006
300whp at 7 psi=300whp at 15psi </TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, I'd the flame suit on. I'm sure someone will just bitch and moan that you didn't hit the search button (top right corner).
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006
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10-14-2006, 07:23 AM
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Re: WHP VS BOOST (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, I'd the flame suit on. I'm sure someone will just bitch and moan that you didn't hit the search button (top right corner).
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 sick answer
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1 sick answer
10-14-2006, 08:26 AM
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Re: WHP VS BOOST (AF-P Dunc)
Great answer. My car is tuned on Hondata(S200B) at 7 psi and creeps up to 10 psi every now and again.
Jerry Built
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Jerry Built
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10-14-2006, 02:07 PM
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Re: WHP VS BOOST (AF-P Dunc)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, I'd the flame suit on. I'm sure someone will just bitch and moan that you didn't hit the search button (top right corner).
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
good ****
Yes 300whp@7psi ='s 300whp@15psi....depending on the size of the turbo. Smaller turbos have to work harder (measured in psi/boost) to make the same whp as larger turbos. That is why a huge turbo can make like 600whp while a small one could only make like say 350. If you are on a budget, then yes just leave everything stock. Stock motors can handle alot of power....if the tune is good. As said by many others whp is what kills motors, not psi. However I personally wouldn't like going over like 15ish psi or about on pump gas with a stock sleeves. A general rule of thumb others say is that a stock motor can safely handle 300whp...on a stock B-series block. I'm not saying these are always true or are correct, but that is the consensus.
When they say they overboosted what they mean is this: They get tuned for like 10psi and make 300whp. So one day they are going to the local autozone to pick up some high performance JDM blinker fluid and while doing a WOT pull the vaccum line (controlling the wastegate) explodes or something. Well if they do not have an overboost protection system (Hondata, AEM, etc have this feature) then the turbo will go crazy and think "yippy I'm free!!!" It then proceeds to boost it's happy little self to like 20-30psi before the driver can let off the gas, realizing that he is soon going to open his wallet and drain the funds on rebuilding the motor. By this time the A/F's have leaned out to god knows what and the motor goes boom. They might have made more power, but that isn't what caused it. It was caused by the lean A/F's because they were not tuned at 20-30psi. That is because with more air in the motor, you need more gas to make power. Too much of one or the other can be a bad thing....hence the need for the good tune.
People do the cams, porting, etc etc etc, because every little bit helps when trying to get the most whp you possibly can out of a particular turbo. Notice the bolded words in the above paragraph. There are alot of depends/if's/maybe's when doing the turbo thing. Hope this helps a little.
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 1:18 PM 10/13/2006
Modified by AF-P Dunc at 11:37 PM 10/13/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>
good ****
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