Who tunes the Greddy E-Manage in the Northeast?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Branford, CT, 06405
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (TheShodan)
Yea, the problem is how do I get my car out there for them to tune? I'm not trailoring my car to Michigan. Thanks for the help though.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Re: (Excelerate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ttt</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can make sure the turbo is not connected to the charge pipe for positive pressure, and drive the car to MI, and install the e-manage then. How else were you going to any other tuner in your area? 50miles and 200 are about the same as long as there isn't any load on the car..
You can make sure the turbo is not connected to the charge pipe for positive pressure, and drive the car to MI, and install the e-manage then. How else were you going to any other tuner in your area? 50miles and 200 are about the same as long as there isn't any load on the car..
Trending Topics
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Easton, PA
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Excelerate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I built the block and do no want to destroy it by not having a good tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you might want to get something other than E-manage.
Then you might want to get something other than E-manage.
#9
Re: (Andrea)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrea »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then you might want to get something other than E-manage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WORD
Then you might want to get something other than E-manage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WORD
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Branford, CT, 06405
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone tune the E-Manage in the New England area?
And I don't want to hear how I should get rid of the E-Manage. I need my OBD2 port for emissions so I am not swapping in an OBD1 ECU.
And I don't want to hear how I should get rid of the E-Manage. I need my OBD2 port for emissions so I am not swapping in an OBD1 ECU.
#13
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Excelerate)
hey josh you're in CT? for some reason I thought you were in NJ or something. a couple of good suggestions here, KTR knows their **** for sure (Ayer, MA) and I've heard good things 2nd hand about trick engineering, they're in southern NH...
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Branford, CT, 06405
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (notoriousB)
hey Brian thanks... those are the two I'm considering now. I spoke to Jeff at Trick and I checked KTR's site but how familiar are they with Honda engines or the E-Manage? And what about the Accord? It seems they do a lot of European stuff.
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Excelerate)
KTR is definitely mostly high-end stuff, but tuning is BASICALLY tuning. I spoke briefly with Franz there about my car and the AEM EMS, he was very honest and responsive, it wouldn't hurt to call/email directly and see what (if any) experience he has with the e-manage specifically.
Is your motor all built up already?
Is your motor all built up already?
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Branford, CT, 06405
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (notoriousB)
I've been reading your thread on honduh.. it got a little nasty there towards the end.. ive been trying to think of a solution for the ignition/brakes but it seems like there are enough masterminds behind you to figure out those problems..
I just brought the block to the machine shop Wednesday and the Crower Rods, CP Pistons, and Hastings Rings came in the same day (which was only like 3 weeks after I ordered them). I'm going to order the bearings today and I already have the ARP H23 head studs, the RC 550's (saturated) and the AC oil block adapter.. so all i need now is the OEM stuff: Honda Bond, Rod bearings, Main bearings, headgasket, valve cover gasket, thrust bearings, IM gasket, TB gasket, and let me know if I need anything else...
The block is getting bored 20 over (.00020 or whatever the exact measurement is), honed, decked and th head is being decked. I'm not sure yet whether I should have everything balanced yet.. the machine shop will advise if things are out of spec... now the last thing will be finding someone to tune this baby.. like you im looking for about 15-16psi (300whp)
Oh yea i have to buy the Greddy Pressure Sensor and lock in the volts on the EMAnage to 3 volts for the stock MAP sensor so the stock map doesnt freak out and as i understand the Greddy Pressure Sensor allows you to tune beyond that 3 volts.
Well let me know if I'm missing anything. I called KTR but I'm waiting for a response. Like I said, I called Jeff from Trick Engineering and am deciding who to go with. I just need a really good tune since it will be stock sleeves and no block guard.
Brian, how many degrees of timing did you take out per psi or per few psi?
I just brought the block to the machine shop Wednesday and the Crower Rods, CP Pistons, and Hastings Rings came in the same day (which was only like 3 weeks after I ordered them). I'm going to order the bearings today and I already have the ARP H23 head studs, the RC 550's (saturated) and the AC oil block adapter.. so all i need now is the OEM stuff: Honda Bond, Rod bearings, Main bearings, headgasket, valve cover gasket, thrust bearings, IM gasket, TB gasket, and let me know if I need anything else...
The block is getting bored 20 over (.00020 or whatever the exact measurement is), honed, decked and th head is being decked. I'm not sure yet whether I should have everything balanced yet.. the machine shop will advise if things are out of spec... now the last thing will be finding someone to tune this baby.. like you im looking for about 15-16psi (300whp)
Oh yea i have to buy the Greddy Pressure Sensor and lock in the volts on the EMAnage to 3 volts for the stock MAP sensor so the stock map doesnt freak out and as i understand the Greddy Pressure Sensor allows you to tune beyond that 3 volts.
Well let me know if I'm missing anything. I called KTR but I'm waiting for a response. Like I said, I called Jeff from Trick Engineering and am deciding who to go with. I just need a really good tune since it will be stock sleeves and no block guard.
Brian, how many degrees of timing did you take out per psi or per few psi?
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Excelerate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been reading your thread on honduh.. it got a little nasty there towards the end.. ive been trying to think of a solution for the ignition/brakes but it seems like there are enough masterminds behind you to figure out those problems.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah I might go in and edit the whole thread to take that garbage out. (being a mod has its perks) it's all good tho, no need to pretend all is happy and good, I promised that I would post the bad with the good, and that includes my grumpiness I guess. almost 8 months of <u>constant</u> transportation problems will do that to you. honduh's down right now not sure what that's about.
unfortunately even with the help I've gotten there and here I'm still bashing my head off the cold starts and brakes. I just sucked it up and ordered a new brake booster today, praying that will fix the brake problem. the car does start after 2-4 tries now which is MUCH better than before, but not nearly as good it should be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the Crower Rods, CP Pistons, and Hastings Rings came in the same day (which was only like 3 weeks after I ordered them)</TD></TR></TABLE>
rub it in why don't you... bastard! LOL j/k did you get them from race engineering also?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to order the bearings today and I already have the ARP H23 head studs, the RC 550's (saturated) and the AC oil block adapter.. so all i need now is the OEM stuff: Honda Bond, Rod bearings, Main bearings, headgasket, valve cover gasket, thrust bearings, IM gasket, TB gasket, and let me know if I need anything else... </TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like you've got most of it covered. I'd replace the right main seal while the motor's apart also. no need for the throttle body gasket - you won't have to remove that from the IM unless you already have. I replaced the dipstick o-ring. OH! Be SURE you replace the oil pick up gasket!! it's only like $0.75 but could cause you big problems if you don't replace it. you may want to replace the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover too while it's off. exhaust mani gasket? that intake manifold gasket is a PITA to scrape off the IM... have fun, grab some sharp razor blades, you'll need them. check the seals on your timing belt covers and replace if necessary. that reminds me, replace your timing belt and balancer belt and water pump while you have it all apart. I replaced my oil pump as well while it was apart since my stock one had 70k on it. and I sucked it up and got a new clutch (Action 2MD - loving it!) for the motor at the same time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brian, how many degrees of timing did you take out per psi or per few psi?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I'm having it tuned professionally (looks like this coming MONDAY! WOOT!), and if you're doing the same thing the tuner will determine the proper timing. if you're just setting up a basemap to run on, I'd pull 0.75-1 degree per psi to be safe, then let the tuner do the rest.
Sounds like you're well on your way, glad it's not taking you nearly as long as it took me.
I'm shooting for 300-350 hp as well. I'll let you know how I make out. -B
yeah I might go in and edit the whole thread to take that garbage out. (being a mod has its perks) it's all good tho, no need to pretend all is happy and good, I promised that I would post the bad with the good, and that includes my grumpiness I guess. almost 8 months of <u>constant</u> transportation problems will do that to you. honduh's down right now not sure what that's about.
unfortunately even with the help I've gotten there and here I'm still bashing my head off the cold starts and brakes. I just sucked it up and ordered a new brake booster today, praying that will fix the brake problem. the car does start after 2-4 tries now which is MUCH better than before, but not nearly as good it should be.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the Crower Rods, CP Pistons, and Hastings Rings came in the same day (which was only like 3 weeks after I ordered them)</TD></TR></TABLE>
rub it in why don't you... bastard! LOL j/k did you get them from race engineering also?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to order the bearings today and I already have the ARP H23 head studs, the RC 550's (saturated) and the AC oil block adapter.. so all i need now is the OEM stuff: Honda Bond, Rod bearings, Main bearings, headgasket, valve cover gasket, thrust bearings, IM gasket, TB gasket, and let me know if I need anything else... </TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like you've got most of it covered. I'd replace the right main seal while the motor's apart also. no need for the throttle body gasket - you won't have to remove that from the IM unless you already have. I replaced the dipstick o-ring. OH! Be SURE you replace the oil pick up gasket!! it's only like $0.75 but could cause you big problems if you don't replace it. you may want to replace the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover too while it's off. exhaust mani gasket? that intake manifold gasket is a PITA to scrape off the IM... have fun, grab some sharp razor blades, you'll need them. check the seals on your timing belt covers and replace if necessary. that reminds me, replace your timing belt and balancer belt and water pump while you have it all apart. I replaced my oil pump as well while it was apart since my stock one had 70k on it. and I sucked it up and got a new clutch (Action 2MD - loving it!) for the motor at the same time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Excelerate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brian, how many degrees of timing did you take out per psi or per few psi?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well I'm having it tuned professionally (looks like this coming MONDAY! WOOT!), and if you're doing the same thing the tuner will determine the proper timing. if you're just setting up a basemap to run on, I'd pull 0.75-1 degree per psi to be safe, then let the tuner do the rest.
Sounds like you're well on your way, glad it's not taking you nearly as long as it took me.
I'm shooting for 300-350 hp as well. I'll let you know how I make out. -B
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Branford, CT, 06405
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (notoriousB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
sounds like you've got most of it covered. I'd replace the right main seal while the motor's apart also. no need for the throttle body gasket - you won't have to remove that from the IM unless you already have. I replaced the dipstick o-ring. OH! Be SURE you replace the oil pick up gasket!! it's only like $0.75 but could cause you big problems if you don't replace it. you may want to replace the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover too while it's off. exhaust mani gasket? that intake manifold gasket is a PITA to scrape off the IM... have fun, grab some sharp razor blades, you'll need them. check the seals on your timing belt covers and replace if necessary. that reminds me, replace your timing belt and balancer belt and water pump while you have it all apart. I replaced my oil pump as well while it was apart since my stock one had 70k on it. and I sucked it up and got a new clutch (Action 2MD - loving it!) for the motor at the same time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the car only has 35k on it. Do you think it will be necessary to replace all those extra gaskets? I plan on doing the TB and balancer belt but im not sure about the water pump.. only 35k on the engine... same with the oil pump.. i just dont think it will be necessary considering the engine has such low mileage.. do you still think so?
sounds like you've got most of it covered. I'd replace the right main seal while the motor's apart also. no need for the throttle body gasket - you won't have to remove that from the IM unless you already have. I replaced the dipstick o-ring. OH! Be SURE you replace the oil pick up gasket!! it's only like $0.75 but could cause you big problems if you don't replace it. you may want to replace the spark plug gaskets in the valve cover too while it's off. exhaust mani gasket? that intake manifold gasket is a PITA to scrape off the IM... have fun, grab some sharp razor blades, you'll need them. check the seals on your timing belt covers and replace if necessary. that reminds me, replace your timing belt and balancer belt and water pump while you have it all apart. I replaced my oil pump as well while it was apart since my stock one had 70k on it. and I sucked it up and got a new clutch (Action 2MD - loving it!) for the motor at the same time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the car only has 35k on it. Do you think it will be necessary to replace all those extra gaskets? I plan on doing the TB and balancer belt but im not sure about the water pump.. only 35k on the engine... same with the oil pump.. i just dont think it will be necessary considering the engine has such low mileage.. do you still think so?
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: North of Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Excelerate)
I'd replace the oil pickup gasket for sure. the others are up to you, check the old ones and see if you feel good about them. I just didn't want to take a chance so I replaced everything I could think of. stock honda oil pumps generally go for what? 200k+ miles? it'll probably be fine. the h2o pump is only $40 so why not replace it IMO. cheap insurance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
evil_ryu
Southern California (Sales)
49
04-29-2008 05:23 PM
boomersz
Texas -OK -LA (Sales)
8
08-29-2007 06:29 PM
Repin da R18
Honda Civic (2006 - 2015)
9
04-20-2007 03:13 PM