BlueSi2k

I was reading the post about the cost of installing pistons and rods and it got me thinking. When it comes time for me to install rods and pistons i would love to do the work myself. I was just wondering if anyone here has done their own pistons/rods with the engine still in the car removing just the head and the oil pan. I would imagine that its not required to remove the crank when going about it this way but would it be wise to replace the main bearings anyway? what other misc parts are needed besides rod bearings and the pistons/rods? (water pump, oil pump etc) what are the downsides to doing it this way? my goal is somewhere between 300-350 whp. Sorry about all of the questions...im trying to decide if it would be more beneficial to me by leaving the engine in the car since it wont be an all out race car, or pulling the block and have everything professionally balanced. Thanks
-john

01ITR#700

I'm not a whole lot of help but my buddy is a pro when it comes to pistons and rods with the motor still in the car. He does it all the time and thinks it's really easy. Apparently if you plan on running the stock bore and don't need to do any work to the block then you don't need to pull the motor.
HTH
M

TurBoXBirD16

i want to know this too !

stizzit

Ever seen a smoke screen? hehe

Just2Fast

My friend and I changed the pistons and rods in his car. It was fairly easy, just make sure to clean and hone the cylinder walls. Make sure that everything is torqued down to spec. And make sure to check everything (Especially the piston rings arrangement) when installing.

TurBoXBirD16

god.. it sounds easy
i wish i have the money for pistons and rods though haha

BlueSi2k

Thanks for all the help guys. Can anyone answer about the crank and main bearings? What needs to be replaced besides pistons,rod,rod bearings? thanks


[Modified by BlueSi2k, 7:59 PM 7/15/2002]

EXtasy

Yes it can be done and is realtively easy. Pull the head & oil pan, then just loosen the rod cap bolts and wiggle them loose (DO NOT USE ANY PRYING DEVICE). Make sure you do then 1 at a time and keep all the pieces from each cylinder together so they are re-assembled the same. Just push the pistons up until they pop out of the block. Put the rings onto the pistons & get a GOOD ring compressor compress the rings and tap them into the bore, slide it down & just turn the engine over by hand to get the rod onto the crank journal then bolt & tighten to factory specs. I would not worry about the main bearings as that requires crank removal. I would do rod bearings if you use OEM Hondas you'll need the bearing color codes or you can use universals like Beck Arnley or CLevite. IMPORTANT make sure the outside temp is relatively warm when you do the torque-ing if it's cold when the engine heats & everything expands you'll be too loose, which will more than likely require tearing it all down again when bearings come loose or spin.

TurBoXBirD16

what do u mean when u say turn the engine over??
aren't we just leaving the engine in the car??

pub

He means rotate the crank by hand.

GruvyTune

well, i've got 76K on my stock engine and blew 2 pistons. I decided to do something I had never done. I took my engine out of my car, got some JE pistons and Eagle rods. I got ARP head studs. Got the block machined .20 over for the new 9:1 pistons, getting my valves polished and installing new valve seals.

Also replacing mains and rod bearings, both oil seals, the cam seals, the gaskets, the rusted oil pan bolts and studs, the two front lower engine mounts since they looked torn up. Anyway, all necessary stuff if your doing a whole rebuild. I asked alot of people and that is what I decided on. Essentially will run as new and be reliable as new. I wouldn't want it any other way with all the money involved already. If I could have afforded the downtime and the money, i would have sent it off to be sleeved. I think I'll be happy with 14psi of boost on my daily driver though

Oh, i should be starting the process of putting things back together tomorrow! If you need help along the way let me know.


[Modified by GruvyTune, 8:38 PM 7/15/2002]

earl

Don't forget those great ACL bearings. Did they arrive today as promised?

GruvyTune

Earl,
yes they arrived, thanks!

Question about valve seals. what are the correct part nos for the intake and exhaust seals for the B18C1? which ones have the white and which ones the black springs on them?

I ordered from AHMotorsports in PA and I wonder too if they overcharged me at $1.25 per seal. List prices on other sites appear to be $.75 a piece and sell for even less than that!

tonydatyga

Um, in case you were thinking of doing anything to your engine yourself... don't

AlphaKennyWun

I had it done at SFP. Took them one day and I am very happy with the price, time and results at this time. I have 3000 miles and no smoke or drip of oil.

Flamenco-T

the only downside about doing this while engine is still in the car is the clearances, the best way to assemble any internal parts is to have the block upside down, to go against gravity, when you're measuring clearnace with plastic gauge..

another solution, support the block while you;re measuring the bearing clearance to get more accurate tolerances...


I took my motor apart and tear down EVERY SINGLE parts inside the motor....
I dunno how some of you guys do it with the motor still in the car....changin oil filter from under the car was enugh PITA for me hehhehehehehe

BlueSi2k

I have never disassembled an engine so i could be completely off but just an idea...hard to explain but could you put the plastiguage on the top of the crank journal? like not between the journal and rod cap but between the journal and the rod itself therefore gravity will not work against you, correct? Can you picture what im saying or no? thanks

BlueSi2k

anyone think that will work?

TurBoXBirD16

but if u take off the oil pan and ur head already
i think you will be strong enough to lift up the block, right?

just the block isn't that heavy, is it??

Sonny

My D16A1 block with the head removed and flywheel/clutch remove was still pretty damn heavy! After I removed the crank/pistons/rods assembly, the block was much easier to wrok with. I don't think it's the weight that gets you...it's the awkward shape.

Sonny

TurBoXBirD16

hmm... coz it would be easier to work on your engine if u take it out, right??

but if u take the pistons and rods out, then take the block out, then put the new pistons and rods back, it will be very easy to mess up stuff...

maybe we can use a jack with a plain wood on the top and use it to lower the block to the ground?? then we can work on it??

then we can turn over or whatever to work on the block

just my thought

BlueSi2k

sonny do you have any input as to whether the clearance can be measured between the actual rod and the crank journal rather than the rod cap and the crank journal since the engine will not be upside down? I figure it would be the same as measuring it between the rod cap and journal if the engine were upside down, no?

BlueSi2k

ttt

89civic1.8T

When doing a piston + rod job don't you want to hone the cylenders to get a good surface for the new rings?
If you leave the crank in how can this be done without getting savings on/in the crank/crank bearings. I want to do my piston + rod install myself. Just want to know how to do it without doing a compleat rebuild and have little down time.

Ri5e

Interesting. Up you go!