Corksil

Hey I am installing an EGT gauge in my car. I have a few questions.

Exhaust runner #3 is the hottest in a Honda b-series engine, we can all agree on that.

My probe will be installed in the third runner (unless I hear otherwise.}

The probe has a threaded bung which must be welded to the outside of the manifold and drilled for proper fitment.

I plan to have a local shop weld the bung so the probe sit in the third runner, pointed close to the head - the probe is roughly 2.5 inches long (I will measure it this weekend}.



Here is my planned fitment...


Due to the length of the probe I want to install it right where the header pipe starts to turn, so it will sit ~1/2" from the head and read the hottest temp.


Okay so now for my questions...
- Is this the optimal location for the probe?

- Can I have this bung welded with the header ON the car? Not a welding expert and don't want the welder to damage any sensors or overheat anything by welding with the header ON the car - but I'd rather not remove the header if I don't have to.

Thanks I'll have more questions as this thread develops.

Steeve_Civic

If not a Turbo engine it is not necessary, just your AFR into the downpipe

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

No FI?

SiRCiviC94

ive been debating on getting one. is it best to have the wideband closer to the turbo outlet or the dp collector is ok? i have another bung closer to the turbo that might be more accurate?

92cxyd

You are drilling in the wrong location.

#3 is the third runner from the timing cover, you have #2 marked.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

*EDIT* The firing order is from right to left, but Helms illustrations have it the other way around fpr some reason. According to the Helms and Honda service manuals, this person is drilling in the right spot. From actually looking at it, its the wrong spot

From AUTOZONE


92cxyd is referencing THIS



I thought I was one of the few left that ran an EGT.. All the young people run... well, only God knows what anymore.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^see that's how I've always done it... #3 from distributor, not timing cover

I wonder what the FSM says, as I have NGK plugs that are labeled 1 as the shortest and 4 as the longest wire


And since it appears your are NA, there's no real reason for am egt gauge, you'll never generate temperatures anywhere near monitoring

rich7777

Supercharged maybe ????

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Very true... I made a terrible assumption.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Still, a jrsc won't produce that kind of exhaust gas heat, at least not enough to worry about monitoring.

You need to worry more about intake temps...



And technically, unless you can monitor all four cylinders simultaneously then it really serves no point as you don't know what the other cylinders are at

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Right, and that's where the confusion lies when this is asked a lot. I'll go back to my car and check, I believe I'm at the correct "#3".

From HELMS



Looks correct. And the person wanting to tap is the wrong order

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Which also means I was right and muckman had his done wrong and too (#2 from dizzy)

abs0Lut

always start from front(timing chain/belt) and work your way back(flywheel/tranny) when counting cylinder numbers.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Not.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

In both of these pics the number 3 runner is in the same place. 3rd from the timing belt. In the black and white pic notice where the distributor mounting bolt is. Its in the top left. Number 3 cylinder is still in the same place as the other pic.

Corksil

JRSC

JRSC

JRSC

JRSC

JRSC

JRSC

Corksil

GTFO my thread and make your own question with your own cool pictures like I did. Your acronyms are confusing, plz go get DP'd by goats in the bung.

Yes it appears you are correct.

Yeah thanks for clarifying. So it sounds like I AM drilling in the right spot. Regardless of the numbering, is the cylinder marked in the OP still the hottest?

I am running a JRSC if you recall from your 10+ posts in my thread about the optimal pulley configuration to attain 9.8psi of boost.

Whether I need the gauge or not isn't really the point of this thread but thanks for the info. I am running the gauge for a number of reasons which are also irrelevant but I could explain if you really want to know.

I agree about the IAT. It's the intake temps that are dangerous. That's why I'm running methanol/water injection.

Also I agree that ideally one EGT probe on each cylinder would be ideal, but I can't afford that nor do I have the space in my car for four EGT gauges. This is the best compromise - have you heard that the 3rd runner is the hottest? It's the piston that always melts down first (speaking from personal experience and research I've done.)

So my OP is incorrect and I should be going for the other middle-runner?

Thanks for the clarification

Cool

Good to know.

Corksil

Thanks to everyone who posted and I appreciate the feedback.

I'll weld the bung to the OTHER middle runner... #3 in this picture


Can anyone comment on whether I must remove the header from the engine before doing the welding? I don't want to mess up any sensors on the head/block with the welding process, but removing the header is a pita if not required.

I could easily drive the car into the welding shop, let him pull up a bucket to sit on, let him weld the bung and drill, then thread a little bolt in to plug the hole and the whole project would take less than 30 minutes. Removing the header would be more difficult.

Corksil

You again. Plz go. You have it out for me on a personal level as you have 'explained' to me via PM. You have no place posting in my threads. Please add me to your ignore list. If you have a problem with this message, PM me - Do not continue to muddle my threads with your particular brand of negativity.

Thanks!

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

T ake off the header. You dont want all the metal shavings in your exhaust unless your running an open header.

If you have a muffler, I would take the header off or at least disconnect the 2 bolt flange and blow the shavings out before you start the car.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's up to you and your welding shop. it is best to remove the header and put it in the #3 runner (from the actual illustration I posted) on the underside of the header about 3-4 inches from the head flange. It will be the leanest cylinder.

SiRCiviC94

calm down there corkslow you dont even know your own engines firing order take your car to a mechanic.... monitoring 1 runner is a waste of time for such a slow car anyway.

Corksil

Thanks everyone.

I will remove the header from the car before I have it drilled/welded. I had considered the metal shavings but I have no turbo downstream so I figured they wouldn't damage anything in the freeflowing exhaust system. I forgot about the O2 sensor. It will also be easier for the welder to get the bung on right if the header is off the car.

Bump for optimal location confirmation..

Corksil

Heh heh heh. Get on my level kid.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

It really is pointless on a jrsc car... you aren't at any power levels high enough to worth about high egts

And just because #3 tends to run hottest doesn't mean you can't have an issue on another cylinder