allicedout

Went tuning this weekend, but had an issue with the intake temprature sensor. It was mounted right before the turbo and was reading 160 deg F. My guy who was tuning said that was off the wall, and we couldn't get the car running well, we ended up having to remove the sensor and tie it up in the engine bay to get more workable temperature readings. Anyhow long story short I need to mount the sensor on the charge pipe, but the sensor is a straight plug in, no screws or anything to hold it in place. How do i mount the sensor to get a more accurate reading?? I rather not leave it hanging out in the engine. Its a D16Y8.

bboygreddy

go obd1 and u wont need it

melovesboost

if you get a new D series manifold get one with the IAT on the intake manifold.

bebfsu1

Drill a hole in the charge piping, and put a rubber grommet in it. Works fine for me.

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bebfsu1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drill a hole in the charge piping, and put a rubber grommet in it. Works fine for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this guy has the right idea

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bboygreddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go obd1 and u wont need it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why this guy is not a tuner. lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bebfsu1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drill a hole in the charge piping, and put a rubber grommet in it. Works fine for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This has worked for some but chances are you are going to leak boost and possibly over-work your turbo. The chap way to do this is simple, replaced the grommet this man speaks of with JB Weld.

Are you running a Honda ECU? What I usually recommend is the intake manifold mounted IAT sensor.

THEDirtyDseriesWOOT

to tune it correctly u need a iat sensor because tning when charge temps are too hot is just worthless and dangerous to your engine.. i drilled a hole in my stock y8 intake mani in the back of the plunem and siliconed it and the put jb weld over that once it dried works great no leak

.dave

I run a GM IAT sensor that threads into a bung on my charge piping. I adjusted the correction values in the IAT tables so that it'll respond appropriately. Its worked pretty well so far.

THEDirtyDseriesWOOT

nice i hard the gm's have a faster refresh rate also is this true cause th estock honda one is kinda slow. reading

.dave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THEDirtyDseriesWOOT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice i hard the gm's have a faster refresh rate also is this true cause th estock honda one is kinda slow. reading</TD></TR></TABLE>

From everything I've heard I think thats true. Download the AEM software and load up a Honda basemap. The voltage vs. air temp graphs are in there for both sensors, so using that I just adjusted everything.

inspyral

When I had my Y8 I used a rubber grommet to put the IAT sensor in the charge pipe right before the TB. I sealed it with some silicone and let it set up and it never leaked.

LeGeND4LiFe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THEDirtyDseriesWOOT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice i hard the gm's have a faster refresh rate also is this true cause th estock honda one is kinda slow. reading</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe AEM recommends and sells the GM IAT sensors as well.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .dave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run a GM IAT sensor that threads into a bung on my charge piping. I adjusted the correction values in the IAT tables so that it'll respond appropriately. Its worked pretty well so far. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats why I asked if he is running a Honda ECU.

xsi-t

A GM IAT sensor a couple inches away from the throttle body in the charge piping. Done right now worries about a leak. Good luck

ExVtec

Were can you get the IM mounted sensor.

The stock one for my SI was a probe lookin sensor that fitted in a gromet. I made a small flange for it to bolt onto my IM.

Some hondas have them mounted on the IM w/2 little screws?

Any ideas where?

92HB_HB

I PUT mine about 6" in front of the tb in my charge pipe.. its giving me much better reading than when it was on my JG IM.. I made a threaded mounting plate for the sensor, drillled a hole for the probe into the piping, and then welded the plate around the hole. Rock solid and no leaks here

I got this advice from a tuner last yr and just got around to doing it.. SO far so good... My readings are lower now and not affected by the heatsoak of the IM anymore.

LeGeND4LiFe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92HB_HB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I PUT mine about 6" in front of the tb in my charge pipe.. its giving me much better reading than when it was on my JG IM. My readings are lower now and not affected by the heatsoak of the IM anymore.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't this lower reading be less accurate because it's not measuring the actual IAT going into the combustion chamber?

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExVtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were can you get the IM mounted sensor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can buy it new from Honda or you can get it from a junk yard.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wouldn't this lower reading be less accurate because it's not measuring the actual IAT going into the combustion chamber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is what I have always thought too but some well known tuners on this board seem to disagree. I have asked for reason but never got a good answer.

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wouldn't this lower reading be less accurate because it's not measuring the actual IAT going into the combustion chamber?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then why would the stock IAT on the D16Y8 and B16A2 be about 6 inches from the IM? The Type R IM has a mount on the #2 cylinder runner. My IAT sensor is mounted on the intake pipe after the filter and before the compressor with a rubber grommet. It runs very well.

White Smoke

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then why would the stock IAT on the D16Y8 and B16A2 be about 6 inches from the IM? The Type R IM has a mount on the #2 cylinder runner. My IAT sensor is mounted on the intake pipe after the filter and before the compressor with a rubber grommet. It runs very well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you trying to say, you contradicted yourself.
Honda put the OEM sensor 6" from the IM in one car and right on the IM in the other car. Why is one better? By our ricer knowledge the hype R is better right. lol

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Then why would the stock IAT on the D16Y8 and B16A2 be about 6 inches from the IM? The Type R IM has a mount on the #2 cylinder runner. My IAT sensor is mounted on the intake pipe after the filter and before the compressor with a rubber grommet. It runs very well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Running the iat sensor before the compressor is a very bad and innacurate way of measuring the iat's. Think about what a compressor does. It heats the **** out of the air and then on top of that the air is ran through a heat exchanger(intercooler) which cools off the air. So you have a completely different temp after the whole system than before it. Mount it in your upper charge pipe at least.

drumking15

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is what I have always thought too but some well known tuners on this board seem to disagree. I have asked for reason but never got a good answer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

most of the reasoning behind this is that the manifold transfers heat from the head....that heat is then absorbed by the air passing by it in the intake mani...but having the iat in the manifold...it tends to get heatsoaked...and doesnt show the whole picture

by moving it to the charge pipe...you can see an untainted (heatsoaked) reading...which allows you to get a better tune because now the ecu will compensate for actaully true air readings...

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are you trying to say, you contradicted yourself.
Honda put the OEM sensor 6" from the IM in one car and right on the IM in the other car. Why is one better? By our ricer knowledge the hype R is better right. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't contradict myself. The OP is using a D16Y8 and I used the engine in question in my post to let you know how Honda originally designed the system as NA. I used the info about they ITR manifold as the other location that Honda used.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Running the iat sensor before the compressor is a very bad and innacurate way of measuring the iat's. Think about what a compressor does. It heats the **** out of the air and then on top of that the air is ran through a heat exchanger(intercooler) which cools off the air. So you have a completely different temp after the whole system than before it. Mount it in your upper charge pipe at least. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Both ways are good if your tuner can actually tune. You're not always under boost and your speeds aren't always high enough to efficiently cool the compressed air. Where I have it mounted is perfectly fine. I have thought about mounting it in the cold side before the TB, but then I'd have to pay another session for tuning. If it runs fine and get ~28mpg in city, 33 mpg HWY, then I'm not f'in with it.

White Smoke

Dammit, I typed out a long reply and it never showed up... Oh well

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Both ways are good if your tuner can actually tune. You're not always under boost and your speeds aren't always high enough to efficiently cool the compressed air. Where I have it mounted is perfectly fine. I have thought about mounting it in the cold side before the TB, but then I'd have to pay another session for tuning. If it runs fine and get ~28mpg in city, 33 mpg HWY, then I'm not f'in with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just because your car runs "fine" with it doesn't mean its the propper way to go about doing it and it isn't going to work well on every setup. What if you had an inefecient intercooler or what if you were boosting out of your compressor's efficiency range and heating the air up a lot. Putting it before the compressor does not acount for any of this. I dont really know how your tuner can tune the iat corrections properly when your engine bay temperature can stay relatively the same while your actual iat's with that same outside engine bay temp can vary a lot.