<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACEPAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jd who made that thing? got anymore pic's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check MADMAX and whiterice on HMT.

 

hahhaha. YOU GUYS FORGOT TO MENTION THE REAR MOUNT SYSTEM!
STS BABY!

lmfao i am in no way serious...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll rock a sweet log into the 9"s anyday.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You certainly would rock a log - 9" down your throat!

Wow, I think this is what happens when you give a welder to someone with ADD:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice, but I prefer cast - I went the dx 4-1-turbo route on mine

 

i like the HF topmounts, i think thats so cool.

Turbo to NA with 3 bolts FTW!!!

I CANNOT beleive that the log is winnning.I voted top mount this year, maybe HT will have a new favorite next year

 

what ever manifold fits the situation.

there are people making 900+- on a inline pro cast mani.
top mounts with twin gates can expolit the benefit of the twin scroll housing. it is kind of an open question.

myself i have a f-r bottom mount ram horn. works well in my situation. when i go t4, i am really thinking about the inline cast. manifold.

 

I always want what i dont have so id say topmount, i have an AFI ramhorn which i love but snap manifold studs pretty frequently. Dont wanna thread jack but since were talking manifolds, anyone run ARP stainless studs and/or ever broken one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always want what i dont have so id say topmount, i have an AFI ramhorn which i love but snap manifold studs pretty frequently. Dont wanna thread jack but since were talking manifolds, anyone run ARP stainless studs and/or ever broken one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

which do you snap &gt;?

manifold to head or manifold to turbo &gt;

 

Manifold to head... i cant use a torque wrench due to the runners of the ramhorn but am not over tightening them. Im assuming its just lack of tinsel strength in the stock studs to support the added weight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Manifold to head... i cant use a torque wrench due to the runners of the ramhorn but am not over tightening them. Im assuming its just lack of tinsel strength in the stock studs to support the added weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hrmmm wierd you crack them THAT often. i mean i've had some snap after 2 years. might wanna resurface your mani

 

Was gonna order some arps, have the manifold resurfaced, and use some better lock washers or something. Also, gotta remove ps finally. Modified the bracket so i could use it but makes tightening the upper right hand nut almost impossible. Thanks

Also, thought maybe because i couldnt fully tighten that nut that it was causing the others to give or manifold to shift. I dunno, gonna have to try some things till i get it right. Exhaust leaks suck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, but I prefer cast - I went the dx 4-1-turbo route on mine </TD></TR></TABLE>

That single outlet is a big bottleneck for a more powerful car. Besides, stock dual outlet is perfect for feeding a divided turbine to get quicker spool.

Still, for a SOHC at 250whp, DX 4-1 mani with an up pipe kicks the problem squarely in the nuts for a minimum of hassle and cost. Plus, every single polish and shine ****** without a clue will screech that the car can't make any power... and 250 in a CRX or gutted chassis is enough to whip some high dollar riceboy ***.

ForceFed_Motorsports: the manifold flange is expanding when it's heat cycled. Resurface the flange if it's visibly warped, pay attention to how you torque the flange - start in the middle - and most importantly before you even put the mani back on:

Look at the studs and the bolt holes on the mani, see if there are any marks from the flange expanding and ramming up against one side of the OEM stud. Enlarge the bolt hole on those sides. This is most likely what your problem is.

OEM studs are super stout, bro, but they are designed to break if there is a problem... otherwise, the damage is going to be transferred to the head, and you will pull out threads and end up with a helicoil situation. That's the last thing you want.

 

Yep, ima get it resurfaced and make sure the studs arent being damaged from the manifold. I know some flanges used expand at different rates, im hoping AFI chose one that isnt causing my problem.

What about slotting the flange near the stud?


Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 9:21 AM 6/14/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What about slotting the flange near the stud? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about slotting the flange near the stud? </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look at the studs and the bolt holes on the mani, see if there are any marks from the flange expanding and ramming up against one side of the OEM stud. Enlarge the bolt hole on those sides. This is most likely what your problem is.</TD></TR></TABLE>reading comprehension?

 

Impatient, as well.

Slots are great if you want to pass the expansion stress along to your runners/collector in a different manner. That might not be a great idea, every manifold design is a little different in what it likes.

Slots are also more work than thirty seconds with a Dremel or carbide bit on three bolt holes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan89crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reading comprehension?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, enlarging the holes doesnt sound like slotting the flange to me like i asked...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Impatient, as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I modified my post, wasnt sure if that bumped the thread or not for anyone to see it.

Im going to remove the manifold soon and look to see. I just wanna cover all my options now since its my daily driver and cant have my car in pieces for days.

 

heavy design, dose it have a brace to save those bolts... looks leaky

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, enlarging the holes doesnt sound like slotting the flange to me like i asked...</TD></TR></TABLE>

And I answered:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Slots are great if you want to pass the expansion stress along to your runners/collector in a different manner. That might not be a great idea, every manifold design is a little different in what it likes.

Slots are also more work than thirty seconds with a Dremel or carbide bit on three bolt holes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is a reason I didn't mention slotting to you. You are not having a problem with the manifold cracking, you are shearing bolts from flange expansion. I can cite two pieces of literature that state to drill the bolt holes as you go further from center increasingly larger to combat problems with broken studs... but, more importantly, I can cite my own personal experience.

Go fix your car, bro, so you can enjoy it.

 

Sorry, that first comment was directed towards the other guy.

Oh alright ill do it lol. Ill just drill them out a little with a bit from work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Still, for a SOHC at 250whp, DX 4-1 mani with an up pipe kicks the problem squarely in the nuts for a minimum of hassle and cost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't make any power with that!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed_Motorsports &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, that first comment was directed towards the other guy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't take it the wrong way, my e-verbage tends to come off as snippy even with friends.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't make any power with that!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pffft. Go work on a Viper!

 

I'm a little partial to my latest creation...

 

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions.

Back on topic id say my favorite manifold ive ever seen hands down is the AFI front mounted manifold. Looks so sick and the turbo is directly mounted to the side of the intercooler

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cvp467 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FULL-RACE ALL THE WAY
</TD></TR></TABLE> That is the BEST manifold for B series in the WHOLE industry, PERIOD.

 

BUMP for the sidewinder ....... i &lt;3 my lovefab s/w