what would be the best motor?
07-10-2007, 01:31 PM
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what would be the best motor?
im lookin for the best honda motor to turbo for my money. im not looking for too crazy of a setup, i just wanna hit mid 12's at least. thanx!!
07-10-2007, 01:55 PM
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Re: what would be the best motor? (4doorsleepr)
I like the motors with 4 pistons but the best motor is prob the honda-tech red top search motor located at the top right of this page but that one may be out of your budget.
07-10-2007, 03:11 PM
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Re: what would be the best motor? (rota92)
High - mid 12s.
Vitara D16 setup, but you're going to need to use that big red supa fass honda-tech motor in the top right hand for the rest of the info on that one.
Vitara D16 setup, but you're going to need to use that big red supa fass honda-tech motor in the top right hand for the rest of the info on that one.
07-10-2007, 07:05 PM
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Honda had a motor that run high to low 12s?? My wiper motor run pretty quick too; 50 wipe on high-mid 12s, but they're right; honda-tech had best search motor for all honda.
07-10-2007, 07:25 PM
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Re: what would be the best motor? (4doorsleepr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4doorsleepr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im lookin for the best honda motor to turbo for my money. im not looking for too crazy of a setup, i just wanna hit mid 12's at least. thanx!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cheapest way to go is what SovXietday said. Easiest in my opinion is a GSR motor and low-mild boost setup, stock internals, good tuning and you're there.
Cheapest way to go is what SovXietday said. Easiest in my opinion is a GSR motor and low-mild boost setup, stock internals, good tuning and you're there.
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07-10-2007, 10:00 PM
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Re: (blinx9900)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">c32a</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a20a1 without a doubt!</TD></TR></TABLE>
both great ideas
id like to see a garrow 34 in there 
both great ideas
id like to see a garrow 34 in there
07-11-2007, 09:43 AM
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Re: what would be the best motor? (4doorsleepr)
in my opinion B16.... y??? realibility, most high end power, and pretty cheap
so does jeff from import builders
http://www.importbuilders.com/pictures/blocks2.jpg
just my 2 cents
Modified by b18cing_u at 1:56 PM 7/11/2007
so does jeff from import builders
http://www.importbuilders.com/pictures/blocks2.jpg
just my 2 cents
Modified by b18cing_u at 1:56 PM 7/11/2007
07-11-2007, 09:52 AM
#13
Man U FTW
I personally dont think the B16 would be the best choice because of its shorter stroke (less torque) and smaller displacement (slower spool).
As far as built engines go, i would have to say a GSR block w/ an LS crank and GSR head would be my choice. That would be the best combo for strength, overall displacement and price....not to mention i already have all of that ready for a build so i'm doing it regardless
As far as built engines go, i would have to say a GSR block w/ an LS crank and GSR head would be my choice. That would be the best combo for strength, overall displacement and price....not to mention i already have all of that ready for a build so i'm doing it regardless
07-11-2007, 01:02 PM
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Re: (Schister66)
"1.7 Liter B16A
Stage 1 Sleeves, block guard, diamond bore and hone w/ torque plate, step decked, crank balanced and polished, Crank radiused, type-r oil pump, type-r water pump, new rear main seal, IB Spec H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 3/8 rod bolts, 84 MM Wiseco pistons w/coated skirts, XX high tension rings, 100% all Honda bearings, new thrust washers, blueprinted two times for accuracy and to insure all the bearings for rods and mains are the same clearance.
16-40 PSI of boost, #1 choice for any B Series Civic or Integra FWD car. #1 undisputed for cars that weigh up to 2600 lbs FWD with or without LSD. "
http://www.importbuilders.com/ click on killer blocks
Stage 1 Sleeves, block guard, diamond bore and hone w/ torque plate, step decked, crank balanced and polished, Crank radiused, type-r oil pump, type-r water pump, new rear main seal, IB Spec H beam rods w/ ARP 2000 3/8 rod bolts, 84 MM Wiseco pistons w/coated skirts, XX high tension rings, 100% all Honda bearings, new thrust washers, blueprinted two times for accuracy and to insure all the bearings for rods and mains are the same clearance.
16-40 PSI of boost, #1 choice for any B Series Civic or Integra FWD car. #1 undisputed for cars that weigh up to 2600 lbs FWD with or without LSD. "
http://www.importbuilders.com/ click on killer blocks
07-11-2007, 01:05 PM
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Re: (b18cing_u)
another quote
"
Now, if you can have 300+ WHP at 10 PSI, and a torque curve like that, as flat as a table top, your car is going to rip. Since the maximum wheel horsepower your FWD on the street with any kind of real driving experience is about 350-375, then your magic motor is going to have near that HP and the lowest amount of torque possible. That's the formula for speed. Since your only boosting 10 PSI on the shortest stroke, slowest piston speed and widest, head treated bearings Honda makes for the B series, reliability is also the best you can buy. And no, nothing is faster on the street than a b16A turbo. This is not V8 racing where you get the biggest motor you can to go fast. We don't have the whole weight of the car pushing down on the rear wheels to gain traction with, its the opposite. All the weight is taken off the front wheels when we accelerate so we want the least amount of torque possible to remain attached to the ground with maximum traction. The above graph runs 11.30's - 11.50's in 92-95 civic hatchbacks at the track with slicks. And that is at 10 PSI with the stock map sensor. How many other cars do you see doing that at 10 PSI? With full street trim and no fiberglass or cutting? Its called the science of speed. FWD wants top end, and low mid range torque. This is the best you can do, bar none. Do not be fooled and talked into something else for turbo, there is no better. B16A turbo motors ran 9's in the year 2000, mid 9's. Now you see many 2 liter race teams, with 300+ more WHP running the same times. And many with 600+ running mid 10's. Why do I need 600+ on a 2 liter when less than 500 WHP can run 9's with a B16A absolutely proven, done and recorded. Lesson learned. Big HP graphs look cool on the internet, but those cars are not near even close to as reliable, and multitudes harder to drive. Try a 350-400 WHP B16A block, in 1.7 liter trim. Once you have one, you will never buy a 2 liter again, ever. And shoot, the 320+ WHP at 10 PSI, that is on stock US B16A cams. Stock cams! "
"
Now, if you can have 300+ WHP at 10 PSI, and a torque curve like that, as flat as a table top, your car is going to rip. Since the maximum wheel horsepower your FWD on the street with any kind of real driving experience is about 350-375, then your magic motor is going to have near that HP and the lowest amount of torque possible. That's the formula for speed. Since your only boosting 10 PSI on the shortest stroke, slowest piston speed and widest, head treated bearings Honda makes for the B series, reliability is also the best you can buy. And no, nothing is faster on the street than a b16A turbo. This is not V8 racing where you get the biggest motor you can to go fast. We don't have the whole weight of the car pushing down on the rear wheels to gain traction with, its the opposite. All the weight is taken off the front wheels when we accelerate so we want the least amount of torque possible to remain attached to the ground with maximum traction. The above graph runs 11.30's - 11.50's in 92-95 civic hatchbacks at the track with slicks. And that is at 10 PSI with the stock map sensor. How many other cars do you see doing that at 10 PSI? With full street trim and no fiberglass or cutting? Its called the science of speed. FWD wants top end, and low mid range torque. This is the best you can do, bar none. Do not be fooled and talked into something else for turbo, there is no better. B16A turbo motors ran 9's in the year 2000, mid 9's. Now you see many 2 liter race teams, with 300+ more WHP running the same times. And many with 600+ running mid 10's. Why do I need 600+ on a 2 liter when less than 500 WHP can run 9's with a B16A absolutely proven, done and recorded. Lesson learned. Big HP graphs look cool on the internet, but those cars are not near even close to as reliable, and multitudes harder to drive. Try a 350-400 WHP B16A block, in 1.7 liter trim. Once you have one, you will never buy a 2 liter again, ever. And shoot, the 320+ WHP at 10 PSI, that is on stock US B16A cams. Stock cams! "
07-11-2007, 01:09 PM
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Re: (b18cing_u)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cing_u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another quote
"
Now, if you can have 300+ WHP at 10 PSI, and a torque curve like that, as flat as a table top, your car is going to rip. Since the maximum wheel horsepower your FWD on the street with any kind of real driving experience is about 350-375, then your magic motor is going to have near that HP and the lowest amount of torque possible. That's the formula for speed. Since your only boosting 10 PSI on the shortest stroke, slowest piston speed and widest, head treated bearings Honda makes for the B series, reliability is also the best you can buy. And no, nothing is faster on the street than a b16A turbo. This is not V8 racing where you get the biggest motor you can to go fast. We don't have the whole weight of the car pushing down on the rear wheels to gain traction with, its the opposite. All the weight is taken off the front wheels when we accelerate so we want the least amount of torque possible to remain attached to the ground with maximum traction. The above graph runs 11.30's - 11.50's in 92-95 civic hatchbacks at the track with slicks. And that is at 10 PSI with the stock map sensor. How many other cars do you see doing that at 10 PSI? With full street trim and no fiberglass or cutting? Its called the science of speed. FWD wants top end, and low mid range torque. This is the best you can do, bar none. Do not be fooled and talked into something else for turbo, there is no better. B16A turbo motors ran 9's in the year 2000, mid 9's. Now you see many 2 liter race teams, with 300+ more WHP running the same times. And many with 600+ running mid 10's. Why do I need 600+ on a 2 liter when less than 500 WHP can run 9's with a B16A absolutely proven, done and recorded. Lesson learned. Big HP graphs look cool on the internet, but those cars are not near even close to as reliable, and multitudes harder to drive. Try a 350-400 WHP B16A block, in 1.7 liter trim. Once you have one, you will never buy a 2 liter again, ever. And shoot, the 320+ WHP at 10 PSI, that is on stock US B16A cams. Stock cams! "</TD></TR></TABLE>
And to think all i needed all this time was a b16 and I could be going 9's dam why didn't I read this post earlier.
"
Now, if you can have 300+ WHP at 10 PSI, and a torque curve like that, as flat as a table top, your car is going to rip. Since the maximum wheel horsepower your FWD on the street with any kind of real driving experience is about 350-375, then your magic motor is going to have near that HP and the lowest amount of torque possible. That's the formula for speed. Since your only boosting 10 PSI on the shortest stroke, slowest piston speed and widest, head treated bearings Honda makes for the B series, reliability is also the best you can buy. And no, nothing is faster on the street than a b16A turbo. This is not V8 racing where you get the biggest motor you can to go fast. We don't have the whole weight of the car pushing down on the rear wheels to gain traction with, its the opposite. All the weight is taken off the front wheels when we accelerate so we want the least amount of torque possible to remain attached to the ground with maximum traction. The above graph runs 11.30's - 11.50's in 92-95 civic hatchbacks at the track with slicks. And that is at 10 PSI with the stock map sensor. How many other cars do you see doing that at 10 PSI? With full street trim and no fiberglass or cutting? Its called the science of speed. FWD wants top end, and low mid range torque. This is the best you can do, bar none. Do not be fooled and talked into something else for turbo, there is no better. B16A turbo motors ran 9's in the year 2000, mid 9's. Now you see many 2 liter race teams, with 300+ more WHP running the same times. And many with 600+ running mid 10's. Why do I need 600+ on a 2 liter when less than 500 WHP can run 9's with a B16A absolutely proven, done and recorded. Lesson learned. Big HP graphs look cool on the internet, but those cars are not near even close to as reliable, and multitudes harder to drive. Try a 350-400 WHP B16A block, in 1.7 liter trim. Once you have one, you will never buy a 2 liter again, ever. And shoot, the 320+ WHP at 10 PSI, that is on stock US B16A cams. Stock cams! "</TD></TR></TABLE>
And to think all i needed all this time was a b16 and I could be going 9's dam why didn't I read this post earlier.
07-11-2007, 01:38 PM
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Re: (b18cing_u)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cing_u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dats directly from Import Builders, sum of da best motors on earth!!!
Check their website This is a FULLY BUILT b16 of course though
And think outside the bun....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come post when:
1. You can speak and write English
2. You know what the hell you are talking about.
Check their website
This is a FULLY BUILT b16 of course thoughAnd think outside the bun....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come post when:
1. You can speak and write English
2. You know what the hell you are talking about.
07-11-2007, 01:42 PM
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Re: (b18cing_u)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cing_u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really??
U almost running 9's wit a single cam???
Y is it impossible?? Cuz u didnt do it????</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA why don't you post up what great times you have ran? I am sure since you are talking **** on Ryan you for sure have gone faster then that with a single cam.
U almost running 9's wit a single cam???
Y is it impossible?? Cuz u didnt do it????</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA why don't you post up what great times you have ran? I am sure since you are talking **** on Ryan you for sure have gone faster then that with a single cam.
07-11-2007, 01:46 PM
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Re: (underpressure02)
u know wat i havent, i dont have $$$, im not rich or spoiled...
Im tellin him that he did 10.1 on a single cam, why isnt it possible to do 9's on a b16???
Much props 2 him cuz he did 10's on a SOHC, y dont u go blow him???
Im tellin him that he did 10.1 on a single cam, why isnt it possible to do 9's on a b16???
Much props 2 him cuz he did 10's on a SOHC, y dont u go blow him???
07-11-2007, 01:49 PM
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Re: (b18cing_u)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cing_u »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u know wat i havent, i dont have $$$, im not rich or spoiled...
Im tellin him that he did 10.1 on a single cam, why isnt it possible to do 9's on a b16???
Much props 2 him cuz he did 10's on a SOHC, y dont u go blow him???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah I will let you blow him just make sure you swallow, and then when your done you can come toss my salad.
Im tellin him that he did 10.1 on a single cam, why isnt it possible to do 9's on a b16???
Much props 2 him cuz he did 10's on a SOHC, y dont u go blow him???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah I will let you blow him just make sure you swallow, and then when your done you can come toss my salad.