what up ive been searchin every night, im pretty sure ive seen a built b18b turbo build thread but i cant find it to relate to my build

full ls no vtec

20. over 9.5:1 pistons wiseco
k1 rods
CONCRETE BLOCK
bc stage 2 ALL motor cams
supertech valve train
all supporting machine work
cams degreed
msd ignition set up
colder plugs
s300
cast top mount manifold
tial wastegate
turbonetics 50 trim
bigger front mount
exhaust straight up the hood
ls tranny obx lsd
light flywheel
edlebrock performer x intake 70mm throttle body
93 octane 255 intake pump -6 fuel line 1000cc injector

99 coupe ex
full weight basically
1000lb rear springs
agx struts
ground control coil overs on front
traction bars
24.5 slicks



what power can i expect from street tune vs dyno
does this set up have 10 sec 1/4 potential?
what would you rev it to

 

concrete block? you mean like cement?

and no that setup will not land you in the 10's
getting a 10 second car is harder than you and i may think. from the start you will need a bigger turbo, a gsr tranny most likely and of course seat time.

 

ya cement, this set up is lacking turbo i feel

 

yeah i dont know about a cement block, kind of sounds like some back woods type of job. yeah youll need a different manifold, turbo and being an ls is going to be harder to achieve it. not saying it cant be done, its just not common

 

No less than 0whp and no more than 1,000,000whp. No less than 0 RPM and no more than 20,000 RPM. Those are the things I can say for sure. Bench racing is pointless.

 

lol at bench racing.. and concrete

 

Concrete?

 

Hopefully he means engine block filler which is a special blend of concrete. Its safe and its the same thing as doing the CNC works for a lot less money. Plenty of people have done this over the years.

Anyhow it will make what it will make. on hat turbo figure for about 350whp maybe a little more. no where near tens unless the car weights 1700lbs

 

The question is does he still have any cooling capabilities in the block.

 

If he did this correctly then yes he does. Your supposed to just to a 1" ring along the top like a block guard or cnc werx system

 

i have like an 8th inch on top with holes to match the head to the bottom with an inch on bottom for flow of water

 

I got to see this
Do you have any pictures?

 

This is not his setup, but another guy on here going fast on a filled block.

SwappedTURBOegg

 

Any of you guys who have been doing this stuff since the late 90's should have seen this done before....

And if you mean you filled the water jackets, leaving an 1/8" on top and 1" on bottom opening, throw the block in the trash, you did it wrong and its going to overheat instantly....

When you do this (not recommended at all) you should only do about 1"-2" total filler, sitting about an inch down from the top of the sleeves, with lots of drilled passages for coolant flow.

 

There is even a write-up (well, if you can call it that) on this very subject...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/welding-fabrication-53/diy-filled-b-series-block-writeup-comments-welcome-1444721/

If concrete was used take a air chisel and hammer it all out. That is the biggest waste of time, and even the "junkyard builders" have gotten away from that. A lot of this has been around for many decsdes, the cylinders won't "overheat instantly", that is just nonsense. Most people that fill the blocks are running straight Methonal to begin with. Either way, it isn't an alternative to sleeves no matter what people may think.

 

I sincerely hope if you do this and you intend to re use the block, you dont move the sleeves while your chiseling it, and good luck getting it all out of there when its that full of filler.

And that is not just nonsense, even if you have enough holes drilled for proper coolant flow to the head, you have created a thermal barrier in the water jackets, running most of the length of the cylinder walls, preventing coolant from having direct contact with the cylinder walls. It WILL cause serious overheating issues.

 

ya? well guess what....in my area alot of people have done this with no problems.....guess what else i work in a machine shop after my day job and we fill v8s nearly solid people run them on the street. all people wanna do is know everything

 

heres a point to think of also....does the radiator rid heat from the coolant or the cylinders? it cools the coolant. whatever heat the coolent absorbs will easily be removed that guy used a stock radiator. im sure a skunk2 will def be able to handle it. so what if the cylinders are a lil hotter...build it looser....meth.....plenty of solutions.. u honda ppl know everythin its a car not a space ship.

 

You sir, can think you know whatever you like and choose to negate the input of others.

Wasn't that the point of this thread, input from others on your build plan? So if you dont need any input, then don't make threads like this, you already have it all figured out, should make like 10,000 whp.

I'm glad you have filled so many v8 blocks with success, cooling is much more crucial with a turbo motor.

I have seen first hand that filled honda blocks (boosted cars) have overheating problems, especially when they are way over filled like you did.

I hope it works out for you and your motor runs well. I really mean that, but I would **** myself if that thing doesnt have overheating problems.

 

didnt mean to sound like a dick.......but whatever..i will let you know in a few weeks
\

 

You clearly lack fundamental knowledge that you think you have. You need to stop arguing with people that obviously know MUCH more than you and actually learn something. The original post talks of 1/4 mile racing and can be assumed its a track car. Even if it is not, it isn't the end of the world for the engine. Do you even have a clue where the majority of the heat is in a cylinder? Clearly you do not. Head flow is MUCH more important than block flow will ever be. I have been filling blocks longer than you have been alive. Don't try to lecture me with your nonsense. Do you even understand what methonal does or what temperatures it keeps the engine at? Turbo or not, just because you add a turbo to an engine doesn't mean it is automatically going to run hotter either... You want to seem intelligent with the AMOUNT you post (also why you double space everything) rather than posting something worth reading or information to support your claims.

Too many people on here spout off and can't even remotely back up their foolish arguments.

 

**** dude your right i will come back n talk when i have 4500 posts on honda tech....loser

 

I had thought about filling a block solid and running coolant through only the head. If you think about it most of an engines heat is in the head not only because of combustion events but because exhaust gasses flow through the head. The cylinder head will get hotter than the cylinders ever will

Add in a little meth injection on 93 or e85 and you can flow coolant through only he head and keep engine temps normal.

Think of it like old aircraft motors, their blocks were solid, they only monitored cylinder head temps because the heads were liquid cooled.

 

I WAS on your side punk, but since you want to be ignorant.... Can you not read or comprehend? Before you try to "play" with your car, try finishing high school first or at least get that GED you always dreamed about. Do the math and figure out what your "dream" will do for yourself. Clearly your mechanical background was given to you from the bottom of a Cracker Jack box. Stay in school, try to at least pass with D's across the board. It must stink being the only one in high school that can legally buy alcohol.

 

This is food for thought and all but i wouldnt venture into doing something like this ( just my opinion ). I like ls builds but why use a 50trim for drag?? Filling a block for strength but using a small turbo?

And if you dont like " you honda guys" why did you make an account on honda-tech?