what OTHER turbo would you guys recommend for my 95 accord??
#1
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what OTHER turbo would you guys recommend for my 95 accord??
currently i have a 95 accord with the f22b1 sohc vtec motor. it is boosted with a t3/t04e 57 trim .50 a/r .63 exhaust.
i want better spoolcharacteristics.
my setup is
38mm wg 8lb spring(but it only reads to 5.5psi on my gauge. and ive tried 2 gauges - same)
greddy rs bov
rev hard mani
custom 2.5" cat, DP and exhaust
28x7x2.5 fmic
11lb flywheel
act clutch
phearable.net p28 with a turbo preogram from ht member Andryzzle
what exactly would a bigger a/r and exhaust(a/r) do for me?
im just trying to get more power and better spool.
just for reference what would a turbo with these specs do for me
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...h=025
Modified by hb_guy at 4:42 AM 9/8/2008
i want better spoolcharacteristics.
my setup is
38mm wg 8lb spring(but it only reads to 5.5psi on my gauge. and ive tried 2 gauges - same)
greddy rs bov
rev hard mani
custom 2.5" cat, DP and exhaust
28x7x2.5 fmic
11lb flywheel
act clutch
phearable.net p28 with a turbo preogram from ht member Andryzzle
what exactly would a bigger a/r and exhaust(a/r) do for me?
im just trying to get more power and better spool.
just for reference what would a turbo with these specs do for me
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...h=025
Modified by hb_guy at 4:42 AM 9/8/2008
#2
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iTrader: (14)
There's no point in changing anything in the turbo. That is actually well-matched for that displacement engine. You need to check the vacuum and other leaks in the setup that you have currently, (obviously something is wrong if you have an 8psi spring and only getting 5.5psi of boost), and focus on retuning, because with this fix, you'll be at a different CFM than before. It becomes a world of difference in response and power when those things are addressed first.
Look later on to building the engine and increasing boost pressure and don't worry so much about housing changes. That is the least of your problems right now.
Look later on to building the engine and increasing boost pressure and don't worry so much about housing changes. That is the least of your problems right now.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (TheShodan)
well the thing with my spring is that i have had the 5.6 psi spring and i now have the 8.7 psi spring and it gets the same pressure on the gauge.
also my piping is going to get redone shortly. on the hot side its 2.25" but about a foot longer due to a 180 pipe that i can eliminate.
and on the cold side i am using my cai as a charge pipe. it is 2.75" and i am going to 2.5". any other suggestions on the piping and spring/wg issue??
BTW... my car has been turbocharged for about 3000 miles now.
also my piping is going to get redone shortly. on the hot side its 2.25" but about a foot longer due to a 180 pipe that i can eliminate.
and on the cold side i am using my cai as a charge pipe. it is 2.75" and i am going to 2.5". any other suggestions on the piping and spring/wg issue??
BTW... my car has been turbocharged for about 3000 miles now.
#4
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Re: what OTHER turbo would you guys recommend for my 95 accord?? (hb_guy)
you don't necessarily need a bigger turbo, you just need to free up some power in your current system. my main recommendation: 3"DP and get rid of your cat. after i did this i immediately noticed a .1 bar (1.5psi) increase in max pressure, noticeably quicker spool, a beastly rumble at idle, and a 23% increase in my carbon footprint .
the main thing you have to look forward to with a bigger turbo is more lag. our motors don't rev very high so personally i don't think i'll go higher than my current .63 A/R 60 trim.
you can always get a boost controller for more power though. the stock f22 is solid... i'm at .9 bar on mine.
btw what kind of results did you see from the lightweight flywheel and clutch upgrade?
the main thing you have to look forward to with a bigger turbo is more lag. our motors don't rev very high so personally i don't think i'll go higher than my current .63 A/R 60 trim.
you can always get a boost controller for more power though. the stock f22 is solid... i'm at .9 bar on mine.
btw what kind of results did you see from the lightweight flywheel and clutch upgrade?
#5
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iTrader: (14)
Re: (hb_guy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hb_guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the thing with my spring is that i have had the 5.6 psi spring and i now have the 8.7 psi spring and it gets the same pressure on the gauge.
also my piping is going to get redone shortly. on the hot side its 2.25" but about a foot longer due to a 180 pipe that i can eliminate.
and on the cold side i am using my cai as a charge pipe. it is 2.75" and i am going to 2.5". any other suggestions on the piping and spring/wg issue??
BTW... my car has been turbocharged for about 3000 miles now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
1) Something is still off. Either the source you're using to your boost gauge is not strong enough (the Intake manifold, and "T"s off the break booster are best), or again, there's still a leak. You can run positive pressure for years, but that doesn't mean that a leak isn't still present somewhere. A lot of times, its in places that you can't see with the naked eye, only "hear" w/ a pressure tester.
2) A 2.25" downpipe is very restrictive. (Is this what you mean by "hotside"? that reference is a bit vague). If you're referring to the compressor outlet, that is actually ok. Freeing up the exhaust system from an NA setup is the best way to go. you don't have to do a 3" downpipe, 2.5" is just fine for up to 400whp. I've done it for years.
3) I normally would recommend a boost controller of some sort, but since you may not have all your leakage issues handled yet, I suggest addressing that first before thinking of using a boost controller.
also my piping is going to get redone shortly. on the hot side its 2.25" but about a foot longer due to a 180 pipe that i can eliminate.
and on the cold side i am using my cai as a charge pipe. it is 2.75" and i am going to 2.5". any other suggestions on the piping and spring/wg issue??
BTW... my car has been turbocharged for about 3000 miles now. </TD></TR></TABLE>
1) Something is still off. Either the source you're using to your boost gauge is not strong enough (the Intake manifold, and "T"s off the break booster are best), or again, there's still a leak. You can run positive pressure for years, but that doesn't mean that a leak isn't still present somewhere. A lot of times, its in places that you can't see with the naked eye, only "hear" w/ a pressure tester.
2) A 2.25" downpipe is very restrictive. (Is this what you mean by "hotside"? that reference is a bit vague). If you're referring to the compressor outlet, that is actually ok. Freeing up the exhaust system from an NA setup is the best way to go. you don't have to do a 3" downpipe, 2.5" is just fine for up to 400whp. I've done it for years.
3) I normally would recommend a boost controller of some sort, but since you may not have all your leakage issues handled yet, I suggest addressing that first before thinking of using a boost controller.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (TheShodan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) Something is still off. Either the source you're using to your boost gauge is not strong enough (the Intake manifold, and "T"s off the break booster are best), or again, there's still a leak. You can run positive pressure for years, but that doesn't mean that a leak isn't still present somewhere. A lot of times, its in places that you can't see with the naked eye, only "hear" w/ a pressure tester.
2) A 2.25" downpipe is very restrictive. (Is this what you mean by "hotside"? that reference is a bit vague). If you're referring to the compressor outlet, that is actually ok. Freeing up the exhaust system from an NA setup is the best way to go. you don't have to do a 3" downpipe, 2.5" is just fine for up to 400whp. I've done it for years.
3) I normally would recommend a boost controller of some sort, but since you may not have all your leakage issues handled yet, I suggest addressing that first before thinking of using a boost controller.</TD></TR></TABLE>
2.5" DP.
2.25" charge piping from turbo to IC
2.75" piping from IC to TB
im going to check/change the boost gauge source.
UPDATE
i installed a mbc from my boy the other day. turned it up a few clicks. the car felt a bit better but NO BIG difference.
well today i returned the car to stock injectors/fmu/missinglink/stock ecu. the car is actually running better, mind you with the mbc still installed and UNTOUCHED.
now while i am constantly making changes and taking ur suggestions i think the program in the p28 i have needs to be redone specifically for my setup or just tuned.
but i am going to change the vacuum source 4 the boost gauge. and like i said next week hopefully my charge piping will get redone. ima start from there.
and all i wanna do is hit the track b4 the weather closes it...
BTW.. thanks guys
edit: Andryzzle: the flywheel and clutch were in there a few months b4 so i really cant tell. but on my civic d16 turbo it was noticable POSITIVE difference. def worth it. and the clutch is a must so why not!!?
but in 1999 on 91 se-r with a turbocharged USDM sr20 motor(418whp 433wtq) it was a huge difference. used clutchmasters stage 5 and 12lb flywheel. i loved it. and it was my DD. damn i miss that car.
1) Something is still off. Either the source you're using to your boost gauge is not strong enough (the Intake manifold, and "T"s off the break booster are best), or again, there's still a leak. You can run positive pressure for years, but that doesn't mean that a leak isn't still present somewhere. A lot of times, its in places that you can't see with the naked eye, only "hear" w/ a pressure tester.
2) A 2.25" downpipe is very restrictive. (Is this what you mean by "hotside"? that reference is a bit vague). If you're referring to the compressor outlet, that is actually ok. Freeing up the exhaust system from an NA setup is the best way to go. you don't have to do a 3" downpipe, 2.5" is just fine for up to 400whp. I've done it for years.
3) I normally would recommend a boost controller of some sort, but since you may not have all your leakage issues handled yet, I suggest addressing that first before thinking of using a boost controller.</TD></TR></TABLE>
2.5" DP.
2.25" charge piping from turbo to IC
2.75" piping from IC to TB
im going to check/change the boost gauge source.
UPDATE
i installed a mbc from my boy the other day. turned it up a few clicks. the car felt a bit better but NO BIG difference.
well today i returned the car to stock injectors/fmu/missinglink/stock ecu. the car is actually running better, mind you with the mbc still installed and UNTOUCHED.
now while i am constantly making changes and taking ur suggestions i think the program in the p28 i have needs to be redone specifically for my setup or just tuned.
but i am going to change the vacuum source 4 the boost gauge. and like i said next week hopefully my charge piping will get redone. ima start from there.
and all i wanna do is hit the track b4 the weather closes it...
BTW.. thanks guys
edit: Andryzzle: the flywheel and clutch were in there a few months b4 so i really cant tell. but on my civic d16 turbo it was noticable POSITIVE difference. def worth it. and the clutch is a must so why not!!?
but in 1999 on 91 se-r with a turbocharged USDM sr20 motor(418whp 433wtq) it was a huge difference. used clutchmasters stage 5 and 12lb flywheel. i loved it. and it was my DD. damn i miss that car.
#7
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I think you would actually notice a huge difference if you got it tuned like you mentioned in your last post. I think that is where alot of your problem is. Good luck with it man.
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (JShull)
changed the vac source for my boost gauge and checked the vac line to my gauge and slight difference. it now hits almost 6psi. i think i am going to change my wastegate to see if thats it cuz for some reason even with the boost controller my boost does not seem to go up
#10
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Re: (Andryzzle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andryzzle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you leaking exhaust past your wastegate? valve seat perhaps?</TD></TR></TABLE>
not really sure on the exhaust part. how can i check?? and my motor has great compression. i compression test it like once a month
not really sure on the exhaust part. how can i check?? and my motor has great compression. i compression test it like once a month
#11
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Re: (hb_guy)
I'm talking about where the wastegate connects to the manifold. On mine there was a metal ring that goes between the two. At first I didn't put it in and i couldn't build more than a few pounds of boost. Sounds almost the same as your problem..
http://shopping.lightningmotor...=1325
thats the piece i was missing.
http://shopping.lightningmotor...=1325
thats the piece i was missing.
#14
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Thread Starter
Re: (Andryzzle)
i cant wait to redo my piping from the turbo to the intercooler cuz i have way too many couplers. need to make it more efficient.
however i love the turbo f22. she does run great and has no problems son'ing other cars the way she sits!!
however i love the turbo f22. she does run great and has no problems son'ing other cars the way she sits!!
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