DRKSol

people say that a b20 isn't good because of the walls.... whats the deal with the b20 block? if you put on a vtec head and internals, wouldnt it be a good turbo motor becuase of the displacement? what about the crank? is it a hard revving crank or is it a sluggish crank? thinking of possiblities on my next swap.

Mugencrxsir1

Good block for all motor if stock, otherwise I would definately get it sleeved because of the thin sleeves. But there are plenty of HT users that have a b20/vtec boosted and running fine, tuning is the key, and not over reving with stock rod bolts.

Definately get forged interals with ARP rod bolts, and either way you choose, stock sleeves or iron sleeves you will be better off.

I have'nt had/heard anything about the b20 crank, but I imagine that you will be limited in your rev range, but I guess it's about the same as the B18/ls. But with ARP rod bolts you should be able to rev the engine to 9k, but I would'nt do it everyday.

o'malley_808

Hey, Im about to boost my b20 vtec and as far as hard revving, I got my crank knife edged and balanced and with a 8.5lbs flywheel and 9.5.1 JE pistons it revs to 8 grand faster than ive seen any civic, sounds almost like a street bike.... I've got a custom welded block guard that is similar to sleeves and goes down into the block about 2 inches. The guy that built it has ran up to 23psi on the same block with no problems. But definately go with ARP rod and head studs, I've done the same to my motor. Let you know how it holds up with the peakboost kit

Oh other than that Finding sources for all these freakin oil lines (head feed, turbo, oil cooler) haha

DRKSol

i guess what im trying to get at is...would it be a better choice to get the b20 block for the displacement and for the torque or would it be more simple to get an ls. Power is power but i want the torque to go along with it. thats why im asking.

WickedHonda00

Quote: "Power is power but i want the torque to go along with it. thats why im asking. "

Well, if you have power, you have some torque. The real question is...where do you want your torque. Your torque gives you acceleration, which is what you want. So do you want good mid-range power? Or all top end? Top end power is better for drag racing and high-revving races where you stay up top on the powerband.

You can have one of the two. Low-mid range torque, giving you "power on demand", usually from 3500-6000RPM's, which is great for street cars. This will make good horsepower because there is loads of torque. However, it takes less torque at higher RPM to make the same horsepower, thus making the car as effective. The reason is this, if you have peak acceleration between 4000-6000RPM's, you'd need to make sure your engine stays in that powerband in the majority of every gear in order to make the car as fast as possible.

But in the other instance, where you have, let's say a B16 turbo'ed. You make a lot less torque, like 70 ft'lbs less, but you make peak torque flatline @6200-7200RPM's. Your car would haul a$$ from 6000-redline. Why? Because the further up the RPM you go, the greater the gear reduction. So to maximize the peak torque gains, you would get yourself some superlow gears, something like a Type-R. Whatever you decide to do, keep your peak torque up higher in the RPM's so your gears can "stay" in the highest possible gear reduction when @ WOT through every single gear. Higher revving motors also allow you to stay in the gear longer thus giving you more time in each gear to accelerate. Gear your car to your torque band, so @ WOT you will stay in your powerband. This is how you make a fast car. So, if you go smaller displacement, and make peaky torque bands, use short, short gears and allow your car to rev higher than normal (8500+RPM's). If you go larger displacement, and inevitably make more mid-range power (which is honestly better for street use), use a not so short gearing, something like an LS tranny, this way you can stay in your torque band throughout every gear, utilizing that massive acceleration. Remember, each one can make your car accelerate at the same rates IF geared and tuned correctly.

Just so you know I'm not BS'in you. Here's the equation: X amount of Torque multiplied by X amount of RPM divided by 5252 will equal horsepower. Here's another way to look at it: <U>Torque X RPM</U> = Horsepower
5252

So, I would look ay dyno's of turbo'ed B20's and see where all this torque is being made at. Is it all down low? Mid-range? or up top? The crank is the same as an LS crank (I believe so), so the torque band <U>should</U> be similar for both of the engines. Next I would find out about the trannies, find the gearing for each, and about how much speed each can develop in each gear. Find out from other tuners where about in the RPM's does the gear like to rev to and on what motor, and where each gears lye on the RPM when going WOT after each shift. Match up the gears to the corresponding motors that make the power where the gears "have greatest amount of gear reduction". Truthfully, I would go with the B20, IF I had the money. Keep the same crank, sleeve the block, bore to 85mm (this way you can safely bore to 86mm when in need of rebuild), use forged pistons, thick rods and ARP bolts, head studs, etc. and use a micropolished crank, maybe knife-edged. Use a big turbo, such as an SC61, unless your going to boost 20+psi, then I would use a DBB turbo for reliability. Larger turbo's will shift the already monstrous torque band up, thus increasing horsepower GREATLY. This way you can use the big B series Frank, and use a Type-R tranny, and absolutely haul A$$. My .2 cents.



Modified by WickedHonda00 at 8:37 AM 8/21/2006

DRKSol

Wow!! thats the most informative response that i have ever gotten...hit me up on pm and lets talk

WickedHonda00

Just PM'ed you

turbociviccoupe

i turbo charged my b20vtec because b20 blocks are cheap. but it is true the sleeves suck ***. my set up was stock b20vtec with a jdm gsr head. jdm itr tranny, three puck, lightened flywheel, turbo with t3/t4. and we were still able to pull good times with a fucked up suspension. if you can do it cheap...then do it. but if you plan to really race it...it might not last.

here a video

http://youtube.com/watch?v=Eyp62Rpu0Tc

WickedHonda00

They have webbed sleeves, which aren't good. If your not gonna sleeve the block, and you want to run moderate boost (12-15psi or greater), then I would just go with an LS/Vtec. They are even cheaper I believe. Same stroke, just a smaller bore. (Again, I think). However, econo setups could make 275-300whp with a good mid-range for street use. Use a block guard, forged pistons and rods, OEM bearings. Just keep it simple. Stock B16 head, maybe springs and retainers. But you probably won't need them since the car wouldn't rev any higher than a stock or mildly modified B16a anyways.

DRKSol

Im good with the motor but now we get into the tranny issue....a b20vtec setup would be good with a itr tranny or should i change the internals of the tranny also? and if so with whta internals

turbociviccoupe

no do not change the internals!!! itr tranny is the best oem tranny. ive had my tranny for years and it has taken the abuse of 4 motors and its on the 5th with no problems at all...and plus i drive the shiet out of my cars

WickedHonda00

I'm willing to bet turbociviccoupe is right. It would be cheaper to use the ITR tranny which already has an LSD, and just tune your motor to make good mid-range to top end power. Otherwise, you'd have to make a custom gearing for the tranny, which would cost alot more. It would be awesome because as soon as you shift gears, the car would stay in the strongest part of your powerband enabling you to accelerate at a maximum rate at all times during WOT. ITR definately the best tranny hands down. A 4.9 final drive added to that tranny would be SICK.