white rocket

As the title states. I'm planning on boosting my stock ITR engine using a GT28RS looking for 300whp max.

What should I have checked to ensure that the motor is healthy enough to NOT break on day 2? Compression test? Leakdown test? Anything else?

Currently the motor does burn oil while in VTEC. I'll go through almost one quart at a track day; much better on the street.

Thanx for looking

tony413

compression and leak down

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As the title states. I'm planning on boosting my stock ITR engine using a GT28RS looking for 300whp max.

What should I have checked to ensure that the motor is healthy enough to NOT break on day 2? Compression test? Leakdown test? Anything else?

Currently the motor does burn oil while in VTEC. I'll go through almost one quart at a track day; much better on the street.

Thanx for looking </TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression + Leakdown test would be good. I am sure the motor is fine.

The most important thing is going to be your selection of engine management & tuning/tuner.

High C/R + Factory Cast Pistons + Detonation = broken ringlands

white rocket

Thanx for the quick responses . Glad to see I'm on the right track.

thewrai6th

I would also give it a valve job, if it hasn't had one recently. Full tune up/fluid flush wouldn't hurt.
It is really all about the tune, doesn't matter how much you prep if you run 16AFR to redline. Also with higher compression, there is less margin for error.

RedR

besides what was mentioned, get arp headstuds and if u r into having some peace of mind a thicker hg.

white rocket

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides what was mentioned, get arp headstuds and if u r into having some peace of mind a thicker hg.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't planning on running a thicker HG. It all depends how healthy the motor is. If everything checks out good then I'm boostin' her stock until she blows. If there is a potential major problem then I'll plan on a tear down.

As I mentioned in a previous thread, I've budgeted about $1000 towards the tuning to make sure it's done right. No corners will be cut

RedR

my R motor was perfectly healthy with 30k miles when i boosted it but i installed the hg for peace of mind, since i was the one tuning it and like u said i´d have a smaller margin for errors with my 11:1 compression.

Schister66

You're on the right track so far White Rocket...you've been covering all the bases and seem to have them under wraps before even posting your questions. I forsee a great setup w/ minimal, if any problems

Too bad more people dont follow suit

white rocket

^^^^I'm glad your faith is on my side . I'd rather do it right the first time.

quicksilver1689

I would just do a leakdown test. Check the valve lash, ARP studs are good, i would stay with oem headgaskets, read your plugs that you pull out of the motor, and make sure the iginition system is strong, alot of times the ignition doesnt appear to have problems until you start upping cylinder pressure and end up with missfires and such. Take off the dizzy cap, check the rotor. Then verify your base timing for preperation as well.

white rocket

^^^great suggestions . Anything that would need to be replaced will be replaced; pertaining to maintainance items.

bootlegcivic

I just boosted my stock CTR motor and made 300whp 200wtq at 10lbs with a GT28RS. I did compression test, tune up, and that's about it. Who's tuning yours? Keep it rich and not a lot of timing.

Type-ARR

I would really consider an inlinepro 3mm HG. I had one on my R before I built the motor and it lowers the compression one full point 9.6:1. I still made 315 whp @ 10psi of boost and it was pretty fast and safe.

bootlegcivic

You need cam gears if you do that don't you?

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need cam gears if you do that don't you? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct

white rocket

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need cam gears if you do that don't you?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got 'em

Here's a current mod list for my car(to give you guys an idea where I'm starting)

Comptech Icebox w/ Samco intake tube
Import Builders IM w/ TB and IM spacer kit
330cc RC injectors
AEM cam gears, fuel rail, FPR and fuel filter
Toda header
hi-flow cat
T1R 2.5" catback
UR pulley kit

I made 197whp with bone stock internals on a Dyno Dynamics dyno last summer.

Time for a little more power

white rocket

Update: my car is going into the shop for a leakdown test(and valve adjustment because I'm due) next Tuesday. I'll post the results.

&lt;-----keeping his fingers crossed

4dooritr

if your going turbo replace the UR Pulley with a ATI or Fluidamper.

The extra torque will put alot more harmonics in your crank.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4dooritr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your going turbo replace the UR Pulley with a ATI or Fluidamper.

The extra torque will put alot more harmonics in your crank.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

For his goals, this part is not at all necessary at all. Simply go back to stock.

Check other areas as well. Fuel filter, Valvelash, Compression, leakdown, and even your shocks and springs to ensure they can withstand the additional 50 lbs of weight or so on the front.

Any line or hose that has corrosion or is in dire shape, replace it now, especially those that cannot stand the increase in underhood temperatures. You don't want a fire in the engine bay due to something that has dried, cracked or gunked up..


Modified by TheShodan at 7:33 PM 4/1/2008

blinx9900

i prefer the thicker headgasket idea, ive run both high and low compression turbo setups and i prefer the thicker headgasket, i may be biased though as i blew up my b16b, i guess it didnt like 300+whp with 91 octane

but my new lower compression motor has no problem with 333whp and 91octane and i still have room to grow!