VTEC-DA

Ok, I am short on cash and I still need charge piping to complete my turbo setup. This will only be temporary and will be replaced within a month. My question is, what can I use to form my intercooler piping that wont have to be welded and can be easily bent and twisted to fit? Specifically things I could fin locally at a auto store or Home Depot/Lowes. I know its dumb and kinda ghetto, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

boosted92

I think PVC piping would work, temporarily.

technine

I see some people use big radiator hoses to make some of thier piping, but you can just buy some U bends and rubber couplings and make your own for not that much. Go to jcwhitney.com or jegs.com or summit.com for the U bends. Or search and see what you get.

VTEC-DA

Thats what I was thinking, and then just get it welded when I have the time. Thanks.

b18bturbo

if you want there is new product out by rs akimoto it can handle 40 psi and its bendable in any direction

CivicSoul

Also a really good thing to use in Marine Exhaust hose! Very thermal effeicent

gtcali

I'd like to hear more info on this. Probably pricey though.

B18EG6

SpoolinSol

Is that the SPIRAL-FLEX INTAKE SYSTEM ?



Link: http://www.racingsportsakimoto.com/spiralflex.htm


All info and pics courtesy of racingsportsakimoto.com

VTEC-DA

That sutff looks promising. Anyone know about pricing for it?

Honda4CX-T

You can go to NAPA and get some Diesel (Semi-Truck) engine hoses. 2.25" Inner Diameter 2.5" Outer Diameter ... they have many offset and bends that you'll need and clamp it down....

gtcali

Looks like that universal tail pipe stuff I saw at Pep boys.

blufke

would it be wise to use just hose from turbo to ic? im still trying to think of the best bet for me to set up my piping.

Pat

that's kinda cool! The sizes are pretty big though 3" OD. Can they bend without being crushed?

b18c1_eh2

expensive as crap

it's like 90 for a 4 feet or something like that

shortyz

use ABS pipe.

u can do it all for like 30$

genop

just buy a few u-bends from jc whitney and some rubber couplers from the hardware store. I run 10psi everyday and havent had a pipe blow off yet.

Honda4CX-T

Yes you can if you are on a tight budget..... They have ll kinds of "wacky" bends for those things. I'm positive you'll find one that'll accomodate your needs. Just ask them to show you the book and then you can point out which one you may need. They run anywhere from $8 to $20 depending on length.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about blufke(No weld I/C piping systems):

http://pages.cthome.net/gus/cooler.html
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[Modified by Honda4CX-R, 7:47 AM 2/4/2003]

Joseph Davis

ABS or PVC pipe works. I've known more than one homebrew turbo project running it into the 24+psi range, and the chorus of people telling you it won't work is always amusing - it's actually kept me from upgrading to mandrel bent steel piping.


[Modified by J. Davis, 8:39 AM 2/4/2003]

SiRkid

I SECOND that..
thats the easiest and most cost effective ..
once you can afford to get them welded...then get them welded..so all your really buying extra is a few couplers and clamps

fsp31

>>I've known more than one homebrew turbo project running it into the 24+psi range, and the chorus of people telling you it won't work is always amusing - it's actually kept me from upgrading to mandrel bent steel piping<<

Hah!! I love it!

Been boosted for 3 months and 3000 miles on PVC for partly the same reason. People who don't think the stuff is suitable for this type of use really don't understand how tough PVC really is. It's rated to 350 psi at 75F. That number doesn't drop off appreciably until temps are *very* high. Your charge pipes ain't gonna get that hot boosting <10 psi. If things heat up that much then all the other plastic bits throughout your engine bay will die too.

blufke

at what point do turning angles really hurt airflow? i know as gradual as possible is best, but sometimes there isnt enough space. im running a b18c1 in an eg hatch w/undecided IC size. i guess i just need to look at the space i have and guesstimate.

Joseph Davis

I'm a big fan of either a sharp 90 degree bend or a sudden transition to a wider ID pipe right at the compressor outlet. The charge coming out of the compressor is swirling, which isn't the best for flow at that point - you only induce swirl/tumble in your (wet) intake runners and combustion chamber for fuel atomization.

After that point gradual transitions work better. Sometimes you have to go with a sharp bend, and I wouldn't worry too much about it - boost overcomes all, especially traction.

WuShu

radiator hose, works like a champ and its cheap.

CivicSoul

you realize that when pvc warms up it starts releasing clorine and other wonderful gases. ABS is much better, but harder to find. Look at rv stores