what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms????
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what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms????
i have skunk 2 valve train i was told it can go to 10500 rpms
i have a stock bottom end b20 vtec right now only goes to 8000 rpms getting another short block ls vtec rebuilt for my turbo set up what bearings should i use type r's or gsr's ?????
any type of block work to get them to fit?
i have a stock bottom end b20 vtec right now only goes to 8000 rpms getting another short block ls vtec rebuilt for my turbo set up what bearings should i use type r's or gsr's ?????
any type of block work to get them to fit?
#3
Re: what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms???? (pissedoffsol)
i don't understand why a turbo setup should not rev high. maybe because of the turbo that can't hold till there, but if you rev higher you'll stay longer in boost and when you shift (unless you gear are close enough) you'll never get off max boost, so less lag
#4
Re: what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms???? (JSMC)
problem is cam profiles-
in order to make power really high, it requires a huge duration cam.
large durations at normal revs eats power.
so, why build for 9-10.5k power band when you can use stock power band say 6.5-8k and make the same EFFECTIVE power?
in order to make power really high, it requires a huge duration cam.
large durations at normal revs eats power.
so, why build for 9-10.5k power band when you can use stock power band say 6.5-8k and make the same EFFECTIVE power?
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Re: what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms???? (pissedoffsol)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pissedoffsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">problem is cam profiles-
in order to make power really high, it requires a huge duration cam.
large durations at normal revs eats power.
so, why build for 9-10.5k power band when you can use stock power band say 6.5-8k and make the same EFFECTIVE power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
makes sense.
in order to make power really high, it requires a huge duration cam.
large durations at normal revs eats power.
so, why build for 9-10.5k power band when you can use stock power band say 6.5-8k and make the same EFFECTIVE power?</TD></TR></TABLE>
makes sense.
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Re: what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms???? (GSRwBOOST)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRwBOOST »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you turbo it.. you dont have to rev the **** out of it to make power... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats kinda the poing of going FI.
Also the forces on the engine goes up by the speed of the engine squared I believe.
Thats kinda the poing of going FI.
Also the forces on the engine goes up by the speed of the engine squared I believe.
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Re: what cam and rod bearings for 10,000 rpms???? (HXMan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also the forces on the engine goes up by the speed of the engine squared I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sir are correct. The tensile load on the rods go up exponentially as the speed of the engine increases. This is what causes most people to blow stock motors... aside from detonation, over-revving will snap rods. The largest load placed upon your stock connecting rod (and thus its limiting factor) is not the power created on teh downstroke, but instead, the force absorbed when the piston changes directon from TDC back down again. This is why we can safely boost a stock block and double it's horsepower w/o ever opening it up, as long as the redline is kept stock.
Also the forces on the engine goes up by the speed of the engine squared I believe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sir are correct. The tensile load on the rods go up exponentially as the speed of the engine increases. This is what causes most people to blow stock motors... aside from detonation, over-revving will snap rods. The largest load placed upon your stock connecting rod (and thus its limiting factor) is not the power created on teh downstroke, but instead, the force absorbed when the piston changes directon from TDC back down again. This is why we can safely boost a stock block and double it's horsepower w/o ever opening it up, as long as the redline is kept stock.
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