Just curious, what parts need to be welded when you install a turbo kit?

I am curious because my friend said that nothing has to be welded, but then again I hear from other people that welding has to be done..

I just need some clarification.

 

dont you have to weld an oil line from the turbo or wanna the turbo parts to the oil pan...has to be custom made i think....when i try myne im going to try makeins some weird clamps and other things, but if it dont work i will weld...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eibach95Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont you have to weld an oil line from the turbo or wanna the turbo parts to the oil pan...has to be custom made i think....when i try myne im going to try makeins some weird clamps and other things, but if it dont work i will weld... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that all that needs to be welded?

 

depending on what you get nothing has to be welded.

I had earls fitting welded to my oil pan for return line, but you don't have to have them welded in. welded fittings are less prone to leaking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MachAF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depending on what you get nothing has to be welded.

I had earls fitting welded to my oil pan for return line, but you don't have to have them welded in. welded fittings are less prone to leaking.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the response.

I want it done the right way, so with that in mind is that all that needs to be welded?

 

the return line doens tnee dto be welded on.. but its recommended so you wont leak onthe return line.. meaning the returnline rite on the oil pan... also the blowoff valve flange needs to be welded on also..

 

Thanks guys for the replies.

 

it depends on what type of kit you have...this is what you will need to do with a drag kit, gen 4...and specifically on a '00 prelude

the downpipe needs to be measured, cut and have a flange welded to it. the drag kit didn't come with a flex pipe, which i think is very very very important to have, because the engine shifts all over the place when you change gears and slam on the gas. and without it, i can be proned to snapping. that's the exhuast pipe..there's more to be done

if you have a drag kit, there will be a dump pipe from the wastegate which leads to no where, actually, pointed directly to the engine block (remember this is the prelude, it could be different for other cars). i had that welded to the downpipe to route the exhaust fumes to the exhaust where they belong and not just empty out into the engine bay. because 1) you don't want to die from carbon monoxide poisoning and 2) you'll heat up cylinders 3 and 4 for no reason and wear it down. 3 words.....just do it

as of the oil pan, it depends on your car. my car has an aluminum pan, and probably only 1 out of 10 welding shops will/can weld aluminum. what i did was to remove the oil pan and drill a barb fitting into it purchased from home depot or any general home improvement store. DO NOT DIRECTLY DRILL INTO THE PAN while it's still mounted onto the car. not only will you have an *** load of shavings in the pan (which is bad) you will also have to seal the inside and outside of this connector with a silicone seal i.e. hondabond ($17.00/tube). what's best is the silicone gasket made by Audi/volkswagon ($23.00/tube) because there's pretty much no curing time versus the hondabond with an hour curing time and 3 days for it to completely seal, but they're both just as good. i wouldn't advise some cheap autoparts store brand silicone gasket. it usually won't withstand the abuse of heat and being drenched with motor oil. remember, you just want to do this once and not deal with oil leaks. this may only be for H22 motors and newer cars...if you have an older car, don't worry about it. just replace the gasket.

from the barb fitting, i used a pretty wide fuel hose and used it just as a connection to the aluminum pipe supplied in the turbo installation kit. from the pipe i used another small fuel hose to connect it to the oil return port of the turbo. YOU MUST USE FUEL HOSE...do not use heater hose becuase it will just soak right through. do not use fuel hose as a full connection because it'll have a chance of touching and being melted by the downpipe which = bad...just secure all connections with metal clamps

if your pan is metal. just mark where you want the oil line returned welded and bring it to the muffler shop. that's it.

some more advice. if you're gonna have your car towed...get a flat bed. my car wasn't lowered and the down pipe was still damaged by the tow truck. i now have a dent in the pipe from the pivoting point on the tow truck's arm.

also, when you put your pan back on, take out the dip stick. mine was pinched, bent, and creased, when i screwed it back on, so that meant i couldn't check my oil levels. i ended up removing the oil pan AGAIN to free the stick and that wasn't fun at all

just a heads up...and good luck! if this is your first time installing a turbo, make sure you have another car or a nice friend to drive you around for awhile, because you car will be on jack stands

 

Hi cowboy...
Since you know lots about drag turbo kits, woundering if you can help me out in the drag..
Just install mine in 6th accord...got everything install correctly as i check. when I turn the car on it idle fine run ok up to 1500rpm, but when I give little more gas; the car just drop power on me.. It acting like it almost empty on the gas, but my gas is good. and plenty of gas...
Could you point of some tips that you see that can help solve my problem?...could it be the wastegate acting up and let go of the air, that why the car loosing power?...
Help be preciated...thanks

 

i don't know anything about turbos...just the installation with drag....currently i'm also have problems with the kit of it not able to pull as hard as what i hoped it would do.

all i can say is:

make sure the wastegate is correctly hooked up, all charge pipes are fitted properly without leaks. if that's not the case, then it could be your air/fuel mixture. my guage is back ordered, so i can't do anything to monitor it.

is there a secondary fuel pump or upgraded fuel pump installed? do you have your fuel management unit there too?